wlooper89 wrote:...... It could show if one is approaching the circuit breaker limit, in my case 30A. ......One advantage of the A/C ammeter is a more simple hookup. Just a induction coil that slips around the wire being measured. It can be calibrated by a set screw with a known load. For example a 1500 watt heater draws about 12 amps on high. (Amps=Watts/Volts)
BPFox wrote:Just a couple of thoughts; Did you really wire your trailer with a single 30 amp breaker? That would require 10 ga wire and that seems a little extreme to me.
wlooper89 wrote:Thank you very much for your input. I realize not everyone wants electrical meters, and that meters are not essential. This would be just for fun.
I did use #10 flexible A/C wire between the 30A shore power cord/inlet and the converter. From the inlet it goes first to a 30A GFCI and then to a 30A breaker. Next is a 40A A/C master switch and then the converter where A/C splits into two 12-3 wires back into the trailer. The #10 flexible A/C wire was not easy for me to find. I finally ordered some from a welding supply company online. I think the calibration of the A/C ammeter would be a one-time thing after connecting the induction coil.
You are quite right, I could mentally add up the loads. It is just that late in the day my mental addition is not very good. I am sure it has nothing to do with the beverages I consume.
Bill
Sonetpro wrote:
I would be more worried about that propane tank you have in there with all of the relays and switches you have in there that can cause a spark.
Alphacarina wrote:Is your shore power cord a 10 gauge?
Don
General Electric AC Ammeter. Model number 3689112. 40 to 70 hertz. 5 amp current equals 50 amps on the meter. Of course you will need a shunt resistor to have the meter read correctly.
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