Sink drain exit through floor?

[ajricher]

In the rebuild of my TTT I want to correct some things I just don't like about the design. One of them is the sink drain - it didn't have one.

The original sink was likely a steel pan (which is why it wasn't there when I got the camper) with no drain and not fastened down. I've sourced a proper stainless-steel sink and a drain assembly for it - but how to go through the floor (into a bucket under the camper) has me a bit puzzled.

I guess I could just run a drain pipe through the floor through a grommet, coupled to the drain tailpiece with flex. This seems to me to not quite optimal - a wide-open drain seems to me to be a potential highway for insects and rodentiae.

Thinking a trap isn't worth the effort - no grey-water retained so no fumes. Just really thinking on the open-pipe issue and the exit through the floor (which is metal at that point).

Opinions?

THanks - Alan

[starleen2]

Why not install a ball valve at the exit point - close it when not in use - open it when you set up - and just attach a flex hsoe to a closed outside container to catch the grey water - this will keep out the bugs and you only have to open the valve once when you set up. There are pleny of halve turn ball valve units out there

[S. Heisley]

If you're worried about little critters getting in, you could attach a piece of screen over the end of the exit.

There is a camper drain kit that costs about $12 that you can get at your local RV supply store. It has an air-trap adapter that screws onto you sink drain opening and attaches to a drain hose that has an evacuation flange on the other end.
Another idea is to use PVC type piping. Sprinkler pipe fittings are available with threaded adapters and matching screw caps that can be used to seal off the exit point when not in use. You can then screw a hose onto the threaded adapter when you want to use the drain and empty into either a bucket or a portable gray water tank. (As a matter of fact, that is exactly what my fresh water tank’s evacuation valve came with.)

Something else to consider: You don't have to cut a hole in the floor, if you don't want to. As long as the exit point is lower than the sink, it will still drain okay. If you decide to use a PVC adapter with a screw cap, you can have the exit on some lower (lowest) point on side of the trailer. That way, you don't have to crawl underneath for set-up/close-up. When you get to your destination, screw a short hose on and put the other end in your grey water vessel, which can sit beside or underneath the trailer.

[ajricher]

Folks, these are nice ideas. Much appreciated.

Sharon, i did want to come out of the "floor" (actually a steel box section). That is a high section underneath that will neatly conceal the grey-water container - though your remarks on the side exit and its convenience to ring a strong note with me.

The drain kit sounds like a great idea - going to see about one of them when the time comes and do as you suggest - go out the side.

Starleen, the ball valve is a great idea - but I am dumb enough to keep it closed and make a mess...

Do keep the ideas coming folks - alternative points of view arre more than welcome.

Alan

[Gerdo]

A few thoughts. If you have a trap, that retains water, and don't cap or plug it you could have air blow up through the drain and blow the gray water all over the galley.

The ball valve is a great idea. You could also have threads on the stub,on the outside end, and spin on a cap. OR use a drain plug inside the sink. With the sink plug you would see it and pull it before use.

As far as catching the water. You can use some kind of bucket or jug. If you use a jug then you can cap it and drive it to dispose of it if needed.

[Larwyn]

Or you could go with the same valve that's used on commercially available RV's. That would even allow connection to campground hookups when available. I understand that in some states you are required to have a gray water tank if you have water hookups on board. Only one of the reasons I choose not to have water hookups on my TD.

http://www.campingworld.com/shopping/item/1-1-2-grey-water-waste-valve-body/2295

[ajricher]

Thanks to all!

I took a ride over to my local RV supplier last night and lo and behold he had the kit as described. I am very disappointed, though, as it was a whole 12.95 not 12 dollars ...

That is the perfect solution to my problem - all-in-one plumbing vented to the outside with a nice tight cap for when not in use. When in use...if anything is determined enough to crawl into a grrey-water catch jug, up the tube and out the drain i'll make it a cup of tea to celebrate the event.

Again, many thanks - Alan

[Dale M.]

I would reduce drain (under sink ) down to 3/4 inch hose and go straight down through floor and put male garden hose connect on end... Though you may want to put ball valve under sink as a option.. Anyway garden hose connector will allow you to put a hose on outlet to sent gray water off to a bucket, catch basin or to a proper drain if in RV park... Male garden hose connector also allows you to use a standard hose "cap" available in most hardware stores for about $2 to protect drain from "everything"...

Using male connector on hose keeps you from accidentally connecting it up to a water faucet if you have water tank, which should have female connector for filling ....

Buy keeping a WHITE RV (drinking water safe) style hose for fresh water only and "some other" color hose for drain waste there should not be any confusion what hooks where....

Dale

[Carter]

I have 2 sinks and a shower that drain into a portable tank. No traps and no valves. I just leave the plugs in them when not in use to keep out the vermin.

Jim