1/8" masonite questions??

[Danny]

Starleen2 wrote: "I used the 1/8 masonite on the first two builds. worked well until I got a leak and the stuff turned into mush!! " Starleen, did you seal all the surface area and the edges as well? Masonite must be protected like any other wood product.

[starleen2]

Starleen2 wrote: "I used the 1/8 masonite on the first two builds. worked well until I got a leak and the stuff turned into mush!! " Starleen, did you seal all the surface area and the edges as well? Masonite must be protected like any other wood product.

I used it on the interior and neglected to seal it from the Backside - Water penetrated from a seam in the roof line and collected on the back of the Masonite and wham - you guess it!. Saw it bubbling right underneath the paint!. Had to rip the entire ceiling out. I vowed NEVER again. Seems to me if I have to finish both sides of a product to get it to stand up to wood paneling, then i might as well use wood paneling, eh?

[Danny]

I like the idea of using masonite... but I have no real experience bending it to the sometimes-tight elipses used in some teardrop trailers.

We know that luan is easier bent perpendicular to it's length rather than it's width... and that kerfing anything will assist in achieving tighter curves... but how tight a curve can 1/8 masonite be bent to before it breaks?

I have used on the inside of a 20 inch radius. Pushed it up and she liked it.LOL Conformed right to the bend with no trouble at all . The rough back takes glue or silicone well.

[48Rob]

Water penetrated from a seam in the roof line and collected on the back of the Masonite and wham

If the roof leaked, it would have ruined whatever you used for a ceiling...no?

[starleen2]

Water penetrated from a seam in the roof line and collected on the back of the Masonite and wham

If the roof leaked, it would have ruined whatever you used for a ceiling...no?

Not necessarly - A small leak might cause some discoloration of paneling, not turn it into mush - no? I can state that I have left cheap 5mm luan outside - in the rain - for weeks, and it still did not fall apart! Compare that to masonite in the same conditions unprotected! As mentioned earlier, I used in two previous builds


1/8 masonite used on 1 st build


1/8 masonite used on build # 2
Ceiling installed


Ceiling painted


Celing replaced and repaired!



This camper was covered with a tarp and water got into a flat area of the roof (another reason NOT to do a flat roof)and got past the paint, seam sealer, and liquid nail! And I'm not talking about a lot of water - a one time event that caused the need to replace the entire ceiling because I used One piece to keep seams down to minum on the interior. 1/8 masonite is not that thick and water can eaisly damage it as compared to 1.8 wood paneling. You can tout the praises of masonite all you want until you have to replece it - Just my .02 cents

[Danny]

Just a quick reminder, if you find a nice 50-60 year old TD on the road or stored in an old barn or such, look carefully at the construction.

If the surface had to bend....it was probably masonite, sometimes even if it didn't have to bend.

Now, they had to be repainted or Varnished at least everyother season, to remained sealed, if not it probably isn't around anyway.

Funny isn't, with all of the modern materials and products, in our search for the best or the lightest or a different way of doing things we stumble on something new that turns out to have been the way to do it, back in the begining.

I have plans for a mini 76" 40 wide and masonite will be used

[2bits]

I used Masonite under the aluminum skin and used I think fours or five coats of CPES (Clean PENETRATING Epoxy sealer) to seal it. The word penetrating was the key for me because it penetrates. Then I used epoxy "fill-it" to connect and seal all the seams and edges. Here's a pic to show my radius.



Rob to me has an excellent point that any leak is bad and will require repair although mush is messier and more immediate than a plywood, the goal is seal the heck out of it.

Re reading your original post it seems that you are wanting the masonite to BE the outer layer. If going super cheap, I would go for the see through lexan roof, or Luan. Just me, I wouldn't trust masonite as my primary structure personally.

[Danny]

I used Masonite under the aluminum skin and used I think fours or five coats of CPES (Clean PENETRATING Epoxy sealer) to seal it. The word penetrating was the key for me because it penetrates. Then I used epoxy "fill-it" to connect and seal all the seams and edges. Here's a pic to show my radius.



Rob to me has an excellent point that any leak is bad and will require repair although mush is messier and more immediate than a plywood, the goal is seal the heck out of it.

Re reading your original post it seems that you are wanting the masonite to BE the outer layer. If going super cheap, I would go for the see through lexan roof, or Luan. Just me, I wouldn't trust masonite as my primary structure personally.

Not sure which poster you are answering. LOL Starleen had the roof issues, I currently have a benroy with luan under sealed with 5 coats of poly and galvy roof. no leaks here.LOL The topic was meant for general discussion. As some posters have pointed out they used masonite as the primary in the old days. I think with 7 or 8 coats of spar varnish it would be just A-Ok for some one to use or, primer sealer and nice top coat would work as well. By the way, that is a nice profile..Looks like a modernaire.Excellent work..And you sealed it up well..Sealing is key to a finished leakproof project.

[2bits]

Hey it's Saturday night! haha I was trying to answer the original post but then I realized it doesn't really apply to the situation, and I already wrote it all so since I already did all that work, I posted it LOL

Thank you for the positive comment tho, it is a Modernaire I finished it in aluminum...

[Danny]

Hey it's Saturday night! haha I was trying to answer the original post but then I realized it doesn't really apply to the situation, and I already wrote it all so since I already did all that work, I posted it LOL

Thank you for the positive comment tho, it is a Modernaire I finished it in aluminum...

Saturday night.. We sure live an exciting life..LOL posting on a tear forum..Anyway good build my friend. Did you use birch on the sides? Woodies with metal tops look great..Keep on putting the poly or spar varnish, on the sides, the more thin coats the better...

[2bits]

I sewed my wild oats, I am happy with a six pack and a garage session with some teardrop time these days! The side are 4x10 Maple. I put three thick coats of helmsman on them while they were flat, I am scared to put any more coats on while vertical although I want to, but lets not hijack the thread

[Danny]

O.K. no hi jacking, back to good ole masonite

[Danny]

How many of you have seen this little piece of art.. I understand He is now selling plans. With some modification, this could be a candidate for a 1/8 masonitebuild.

[alffink]

Chummy II

Don't see it out and about like the original Chummy, but If your at the Spamboree, I'm sure you can check it out in person. As Danny said a real piece.of Art with a lot of techniques you won't see on a modern tear, made by a real, old school craftsman.

[kennyrayandersen]

BTW, one thing about Masonite is that it is heavy -- not quite twice as heavy as poplar plywood of the same thickness. and nearly 50% heavier than Luan. you will save nearly 40 lbs from switching from Masonite to Luan assuming 10 sheets (inside and outside). If you can find poplar plywood, you'd save around 60 over a Masonite build. I'm just not 'feeling' the Masonite.