roof

[norm's tear drop]

Finished caulking , sealing, wiring , insulating and am now ready to skin the roof . Theres nothing left that needs to go in the roof so im ready to go . i am going with wood , either paneling or luan board . not masonite . question is what should you use to fasten it ? do you nail it , staple it ,, or screw it im sure screwing it is the way to go but was thinking what size , what length , does screws need special head , or will flat heads work ,,is less better than alot ,, do you glue it , flush to sides , overhang it , recess it from ends also what should you use to cover joints and screw holes need input on all this stuff from the great and smart people in here
ALSO HAS ANY BODY USED WHAT IS CALLED ROOFING PAPER OR WHAT WE CALL HERE PHELT PAPER ? COMES IN 15# 30#45# POUND OR THICKNESS CAN THIS BE INCORPERATED IN THIS SKINNING SOME HOW OR MAYBE TYVEK HOUSE RAP ?
NORM

[CJflyer]

I used quarter inch ply, epoxy, screwed it to the cross members and then removed the screws when the epoxy was cured. I put the roof on with about an inch overhang on each side and then used a spiral bit and laminate trimmer to remove the excess. I plan to fill the screw holes with Elmer's wood patch (interior/exterior), sand, seal and paint with marine grade paint.

I do have an additional question though. Should I fill the screw holes and sand prior to sealing with CPES or after sealing??

Chad

[madjack]

Norm, is the wood, it or is there going to be an aluminum(or other) skin over it???

Chad, I think I would fill and sand first...get all prep work out of the way before you start the final finish.
madjack

[CJflyer]

Thanks madjack, I didn't know how the cpes would interact with the wood filler.

[madjack]

Chad, I don't know either and for a definite answer you should contact the Rot Drx...if there is porosity to the filler, the CPES will take care of it...if not, it should sit on top and seal all...................
madjack

[Alfred]

OK, dumb newbie question -

Do you really have to take out the screws? Why not leave 'em where they're at and paint over 'em?

AL

[CJflyer]

Removing the screws was just my choice. I didn't counter sink and I want a very smooth finish so removing, filling and sanding was the best choice for me. Leaving the screws in could add additional strength I suppose. I did leave the screws along the edges where a trim piece will cover them. The epoxy bond is very strong and in some of the old wooden aircraft construction they would glue, nail and later remove the nails in order to save weight. So, to answer your question, yes you can just leave the screws in. It just depends upon your construction technique and how you plan to finish the roof. Best regards.

[norm's tear drop]

Mad jack , i guess with all that rambling i for got to say im putting AL on top
Norm

[norm's tear drop]

Mad jack, my plan is this glue and only screw edges and around fan vent
Then i have about 4 rachett strap tie downs im going to use over night till tthings set.. sound allright ? how about ends flush or over hang ( I DONT HAVE A ROUTER ) what do you think

Screws>?????? #6 or #8 3/4 inch long or shorter ???????
Norm

[madjack]

Norm, if covered with AL, it really doesn't matter what type of fasteners(i use air driven staples for this) you use(along with adhesive) as long as they are below the surface of the ply...as for what width to cut to, if you have no router you can't cut wider than the walls are apart...I like to cut skins and such a 1/4" narrower than the width apart of the wall, this will give you a little "wiggle" room to fit the skin, plus for the AL skin, this will give a bit of room for thermal expansion...any gaps left will be taken care of by the trim and sealant........
madjack

[norm's tear drop]

Madjack , I would have thought that nails or staples would back themselves out with carting this thing up the road over time

norm

[madjack]

...well, nails and such backing out are a function of expansion and contraction of non adhesive joining...this is a case of the ply being "glued and screwed"(soto speak) and the area where the fastener go, will be covered by the AL skin and trim...by the way, on my present tear, I didn't use ANY substrate, I applied the AL(.040) directly to the spars and it has worked out great so far................
madjack

[vrodjason]

madjack, I was also thinking about not using sub. under the AL. How did you fasten the AL and how far apart are your spars?

Jason