HF 40x48 Max Floor Size

[TJinPgh]

While contemplating various ideas for a lightweight unit, I've been theorizing about what can be done on the 40x48 trailer.

I've seen a few built on that frame already. Very nice units. Not quite what I'm looking for, though.

I had read a post someplace (I'm assuming in this forum someplace) where somebody had posted the maximum floor dimensions that one might safely go with various trailer sizes.

Did a search but couldn't find it.

That said, what would be the largest floor size that one could realistically do on an unaltered 40x48 frame (with the possible exception of lengthening the tongue)

6'x5'?

[bobhenry]

I am sorry I took so long to find your post. I have built 2 trailers on the 40 x 48 HF trailer. I chose to keep both 40" wide to fit between the fenders however if you dont mind building up the frame so that your floor can cantiliever over the fenders you can fully or partially cover them over. I would most heartily recommend replacing the tongue with 2x2x3/16 square tube. I think mine was 8' +/- and ran from rear crossmember to about 18"/24" beyond the stock coupler location. I simply drilled and bolted thru all the crossmembers. Whole project took less than an hour. The trailer tows and backs up much better with the new longer tongue. If you attach the rear of the tongue tube with a square bottomed "u" bolt you can even have a class 2 reciever for a bike rack and other 1 1/4 square tube reciever accessories.

You need to remember weight capacity is 900 to 1100 pounds bepending on tire size. It is real easy to sneak up on this weight in a 4x8 ( 5 x7 ) trailer.

As to your floor you can probably go just shy of 60" wide if you build up and over the fenders. As to length a max length of 84" should be attainable with 18" cantilevered over on each end. Plywood alone probably will not be substantial enough but a 2x3 or 2x4 on edge should offer additional support if ran full length at each side just inside the fender and attached solidly to the outboard frame rails.

My 1800 pound teardrop is on a modified 4x8 HF frame, It is 67" out to out wide. So I am cantilivered 9 1/2" over on each side and it hasn't fallen over on a curve yet

[pmowers]

I had that sized frame for a number of years for my camp kitchen. I originally built the kitchen to fit between the fenders, basically a box the size of the frame. The next version I went a little nuts because I wanted more room. I built it out to 48 inches wide with a stubbed off v-nose on the front of the 48" high box. I put a brace in the center of the v to the tongue. Overall dimensions were about 4'w x 4' h x 5.5' l with the tongue needing to be a lot longer- My son, who could thread a needle in reverse with an Army HETT couldn't back down the drive, we just unhooked, and pulled around using my trailer dolly. If I can find some pictures, I will post them. I think my frame was rated for about 1500 lbs.

[Tabazooron]

I got my HF 40x48 trailer and put sides on it to haul stuff. Could not back that thing up my daughter's drive fith a small load of firewood!
Bought a new tongue and it now acts like a trailer should, plus it's been a great boat trailer for my fishing boat.
Now... for the last 2 months, I've been toying with building a Tear Drop. We have a T@B and we want to try a smaller trailer too.
I was wondering also about the front "overhang" of the camper as we need at least a six foot mattress to sleep on.
I was looking at 18-21 inches in front and about 12 inches in the rear.
Since I assembled the trailer myself and have tools, I'm sure I can move the axle if needed.
Who knows. Still drawing. Will be watching this thread to see how another does it.
Ron

[TJinPgh]

Thanks for the replies, everyone.

The comment about the weight is duly noted. Though, my car only has a 1000lb tow capacity anyway, so it's been the main focus of the project from the start.

I'm still kicking around some various idea and I may end up going with a 4x8 to make things easier. I wanted to know what my options were, though. So, this information is very useful.

Thanks again.

-TJ

[angib]

What I have done for the Wanderer design that I'm about to publish is to put cross-beams above the front and back ends of the HF frame, shown below in blue. The cross-beams support the sides of the body and the sides support everything else. I've used 1x6s which provide plenty of strength for very little weight and avoid the need to put heavy floor framing - this design has none at all.

To work, these cross-beams must go the whole way, not be cut or notched and must be securely fixed to the sidewalls.