How to build a Wiley Window????

[yeto]

I looked at the picture of the Wiley Window but I still can't seem to picture in my mind what they look like or how to build them. Would it be possible for someone to type real slow (wink) with a reply so that I might understand how to build some inexpensive windows/ports for my camper? I have posted a link below to the Wiley Window post. What would be even better would be some cheap small ports with screen wire that I could just cut a hole in the bulkhead and install. Everything I see on the internet is expensive.

viewtopic.php?f=2&t=49898&p=928314&hilit=wiley#p928314

Thanks in advanve for any help,
yeto

[Photoman33770]

This might help.
You lift out the wedges. rock the window back and reinsert the wedges.
The bottom of the wedge has a slot cut in it so the wedge will flex a little.
The down side I see is that sides of the brace will be sticking out inside all the time.
http://books.google.com/books?id=yc6QDZ4Vp24C&pg=PA40&lpg=PA40&ots=Q91oddRZlp&dq=wiley+window+the+nature+of+boats&output=html_text

[yeto]

I got it now. Your post cleared things up for me. Thank you for taking the time to reply.

Kind regards,
yeto

[angib]

The wedge strikes me as something that will hold the window in the open position in a sailboat - but I can't see anyone wanting to hold the window open when towing, so I think a simple clip to hold the window closed is all that is required.







Hopper Window PDF

[Photoman33770]

If you pull the wedges and push the window closed. Inserting the wedges back in while closed would lock it closed.
No one said anything about traveling with the window open.

[LWW]

Hi Yeto, I put the wiley window in my weekender and it works great. Cost be 0 dollars because I used left over wood and some lexan I already had. If you look at the pic in that thread you can see how easy they are to build. If you do build them there are some important things you should keep in mind.
1. Make sure you locate them low enough that you can remove the glass while the door is closed, you'll be glad you did when you need a little more ventelation at night.
2. Be sure the glass goes about 2" higher than your window opening. That way even if caught in a driving rain where the winds blowing sideways you won't get any in your camper. I've tested it and it works.
3. Don't set your glass in a grove in the bottom of the window, you want it on flat surface which is slanted a little so water runs out the window. You also need for the inside bottom to have about a 1/2" piece of wood lip to keep water from draining into your camper.

If you look at the pics of my windows in that thread you referenced you'll see what I'm talking about. I've slept in my camper wile the rain was pouring and blowing sideways, never a drop inside the camper. I'm glad I did them that way and if I had it to do over again I'd do it the same.

Again, go back and look at the pic in that thread. It's about the 3rd or 4th on in of the inside of the doors.Larry

[starleen2]

Again, go back and look at the pic in that thread. It's about the 3rd or 4th on in of the inside of the doors.Larry

Here it is:

[LWW]

Thanks, I wish I could do that, make pics pop up like that. Those are right after I built my doors. I hadn't even sanded them down and put epoxy on them so you can see how they were built. I might add they work great too. Larry

[yeto]

Wow, thanks to all for taking the time to reply. Those windows look great. Your posts are very helpful.

Warm regards,
yeto

[working on it]

I'm intrigued with the Wiley Window. Looks too simple to me to be watertight, but then again, I've not seen one in person nor seen how tight the seal is. But, if it works for all of the people that've built them, and since Andrew (whose drawings/data I rely on) has added a simple twistlock that even I (a stillborn engineer) can understand, then that's what I'll use. There's always a complication in my plans though...I want to be able to take out the lexan/safety glass/bug screen and replace it with an A/C window unit (5k window shaker variety). I went to a lot of pains to seal the rear wall from the sleeping area, due to generator/gasoline/battery/cooking gear there, and don't wish to drill any holes there, much less put a permanent open area in that wall (even with the A/C vent closed, it's still open somewhat). I was resigned to my fate, "pull down the wall", until this subject was revived. My question...has anyone done this before? I can make the window the exact size to cover the A/C dictated/sized window opening, and seals for the A/C unit will be attached to the unit itself, not the opening. Only the lexan/safety glass/bug screen (undecided on material as yet) will have to be removed (along with its' own weatherstrip). Foresee any problems?

[rowerwet]

viewtopic.php?f=21&t=57192&p=1034964#p1034964

[LWW]

Water tite is more a question of making sure that any water has a way to get out without coming inside the camper. If you look at the picture you'll see the 1/2" lip across the bottom of the window and the lip on the side of where the wedge goes. It gives the water a way to go out instead of in.
As far as an airconditioner, I decided to install mine in the passenger side, high side of the road, permentently in the side just behind the door. Keeps from having to store and man handle it all the time. So far it's water proof sturdy and handy. It's also a 5000 btu window unit which will get a real test this summer with a planned late summer trip to the Grand Canyon and other places of interest.

Oh, by the way. As part of the function of the wedges you can raise you window a little, 4" or 5", and push your wedge back down to pin your window so you have a small opening at the bottom for ventilation. So don't sell the wedges short.Larry

[rowerwet]

I'm intrigued with the Wiley Window. Looks too simple to me to be watertight, but then again, I've not seen one in person nor seen how tight the seal is. But, if it works for all of the people that've built them, and since Andrew (whose drawings/data I rely on) has added a simple twistlock that even I (a stillborn engineer) can understand, then that's what I'll use. There's always a complication in my plans though...I want to be able to take out the lexan/safety glass/bug screen and replace it with an A/C window unit (5k window shaker variety). I went to a lot of pains to seal the rear wall from the sleeping area, due to generator/gasoline/battery/cooking gear there, and don't wish to drill any holes there, much less put a permanent open area in that wall (even with the A/C vent closed, it's still open somewhat). I was resigned to my fate, "pull down the wall", until this subject was revived. My question...has anyone done this before? I can make the window the exact size to cover the A/C dictated/sized window opening, and seals for the A/C unit will be attached to the unit itself, not the opening. Only the lexan/safety glass/bug screen (undecided on material as yet) will have to be removed (along with its' own weatherstrip). Foresee any problems?

as long as the door and window frame are strong enough to support the A/C the idea would work. A removable screen would take a bit more effort, but anything is possible.

[felixx]

Oh, by the way. As part of the function of the wedges you can raise you window a little, 4" or 5", and push your wedge back down to pin your window so you have a small opening at the bottom for ventilation. So don't sell the wedges short.Larry

Genius! I never thought to lift the window!

I began building some of these today.. well I made my wedges and began the frames! I will post pictures once it is all sanded and varnished!

[LWW]

You're to funny Felixx. When I built those windows I built them using the scrapes of wood I had left over. Then made the wedges according to what angle the window frame turned out to be. Larry