I speed read this Thread, but wanted to offer some 1st Person experience with an Electrical Demand Water Heater from Grainger I put in our Mountain House. The salient Specs are as follows. Note the sobering high Amps draw linked below to obtain even these results:
'Temp Rise on Low @ 0.75 GPM 32/42 F, Temp Rise on Low @ 1.0 GPM 24/32 F'
Disclaimer: The Heater linked below is newer than the Heater I installed. It likely is more versatile. It is about the same capacity.
I put in a 40 Amp 240 VAC Breaker and ran some large Wire. I kinda recall it was AWG 6 or so, but it was to Code. The key was to REALLY lower flow rate to our Shower Head on a 50 PSI Well-based Water System [with Pressure Tank]. From watching a Gauge, I got the Shower flow rate down to ~0.75 GPM. This was the only way to get Water up to a decent hot temp [~45 F up to ~105 F degrees]. Another key issue was to use quality Ball Valves on the Input and Output. This allowed tailoring Water flow rate to a fine degree; a necessity. These Heaters have a safety diaphragm built in. If the flow rate is too low, they won't heat, since the diaphragm won't turn on a pressure-based interlock Switch. I had to hit a fine balance, and minimize throughput flow rate.
Since I bought this Unit, I believe they now have temp adjustments. However, the Heater I bought was a 'block' Heater. It either heated full-on, or not. Thus, the input temp of the Well Water was crucial. This changes seasonally, of course. This req'd seasonal adjustment of the Ball Valves. When Trailering, I believe one would have to adjust the Ball Valves 'some' [and Water throughput] at about every Camping spot. It would necessarily change in a Trailer, depending on Weather or on Water temp coming from a RV Campsite Spigot. GIGO, so to speak...
To the best of my knowledge, Propane-based Heaters are 'better' than Electrical ones. This is because there's more available BTUs as well as sophisticated, adjustable Microprocessor Controls. From memory, the little 1,500 Watt Space Heaters one sees at the Big Box Stores are ~5,200 BTUs. So, one can run the numbers from there re: the BTUs-to-Watts relationship, and how many BTUs are req'd for heating Water up 'x' degrees. It's sobering.
Another lil 'gotcha' was that the Heater I bought was from the U.K. where 240 VAC really is 240 Volts. Here, our phase-to-phase voltage is ~208 Volts. This meant there was less heating capability, and I had to down-rate the Water temp I could expect from this Heater by ~14%.
A ~2 Gallon Water Well Pressure Tank would be a necessity, I believe, to even out pressure excursions. A conventional Trailer Demand-style Pump turning on and off would wreak havoc with a Demand Heater, and result in either really inconsistent Hot Water temp, or would cause the Water Heater safety diaphragm Switch to cut out. This would result in no hot Water.
We've used Electrical Demand Water Heaters in RV Campground Showers in Scotland. You have to feed in Dime-type Coins to keep the Water Heater on. If you're not quick enough, the Heater shuts off and Water temp instantly drops to a stunningly-cold ambient temp.
Powerstream Demand Water HeaterWater Well Pressure Tanks