Bob's caboose build

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Re: Bob's caboose build

Postby michiganflipper » Thu Jul 12, 2012 7:32 pm

Bob
I use Barn and fence paint from Homedepot on my deck and railing at home and the white barn and fence paint lasted for about 5 years before we had to redo it. This was use on the floor of the decking and with all of the foot traffic it still held up great and it was only about $14.95 a gallon.
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Re: Bob's caboose build

Postby michiganflipper » Thu Jul 12, 2012 7:32 pm

Bob
I use Barn and fence paint from Homedepot on my deck and railing at home and the white barn and fence paint lasted for about 5 years before we had to redo it. This was use on the floor of the decking and with all of the foot traffic it still held up great and it was only about $14.95 a gallon.
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Re: Bob's caboose build

Postby bobhenry » Fri Jul 13, 2012 5:53 am

Lizbeth wrote:Bob,
Just coming on board today and read the whole thread. It's been a pleasure to see what you are doing. I love the whole tiny house movement.
Liz


I hope I can say that as well in about 3 months as I should be moved in. Thanks for the kind words.
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Re: Bob's caboose build

Postby bobhenry » Fri Jul 13, 2012 5:56 am

michiganflipper wrote:Bob
I use Barn and fence paint from Homedepot on my deck and railing at home and the white barn and fence paint lasted for about 5 years before we had to redo it. This was use on the floor of the decking and with all of the foot traffic it still held up great and it was only about $14.95 a gallon.


Frank you are getting old you are repeating yourself.

I have found that the tractor implement enamel is about as tough as it comes in the paint department. The Barn is Massey Ferguson Red and it looks as good 2 years down the road as it did the day I painted it.
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Re: Bob's caboose build

Postby bobhenry » Fri Jul 13, 2012 6:14 am

Well a little update. It was 5 hours of work with little to show for it.

Example the cupalo is 4 bents it takes 6 purlins left to right and each purlin gets a 2x2 block in 4 places to be fastned to the plywood dome. Thats 24 blocks installed glued and screwed and a couple screws each side to fasten the block solidly into the plywood domed truss. so thats 120 screws to fasten just the 6 foot cupalo. Now working off a ladder I can not count the trips up and down to move the ladder for a better angle to attack each fastening problem. I know I have a right knee that is really upset with me this morning.

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With weather coming in (Finally we need the rain) I took off from work a few hours early. I decided to install the front but not to cut out for the door yet. Thinking this will eliminate the wind tunnel effect and possibly help to keep the tarp in place.
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It seem amazing to me that as I close in the project more and more it seem to be getting bigger instead of smaller. With the front wall in and the temporary tarp in place is just seems BIGGER.

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Here is a good shot of the temp roof and the purlins. These are simply laying in place and have not been installed properly yet. As I completed the cupalo and had every joint screwed and glued off it is totally amazing the strength of this honeycomb style roofing technique. I couldn't resist I took my 300+ frame and hung from 2 of the purlins just to test and tried to wiggle the assembly without any luck. This thing is stout.
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Re: Bob's caboose build

Postby bonnie » Fri Jul 13, 2012 6:42 am

I stand in awe. That is a wonderful thing to behold. :applause:
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Re: Bob's caboose build

Postby WhitneyK » Fri Jul 13, 2012 7:25 am

Sure has been good building weather the last few days, keep up the good word Bob. :D
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Re: Bob's caboose build

Postby ParTaxer » Fri Jul 13, 2012 7:50 am

I'm impressed Bob! Do you have to gather two of each species for this build?
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Re: Bob's caboose build

Postby bobhenry » Fri Jul 13, 2012 8:35 am

ParTaxer wrote:I'm impressed Bob! Do you have to gather two of each species for this build?



Nope just me and my little Scottie !Image

It's funny I went looking for her a couple nights ago and she was up in the caboose giving it the once over. I don't know if she knows the plan yet or if she just thinks I am building her a really big dog house ! :D
Last edited by bobhenry on Mon Jul 23, 2012 8:58 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Bob's caboose build

Postby legojenn » Fri Jul 13, 2012 3:09 pm

bobhenry wrote:
Nope just me and my little Scottie !

It's funny I went looking for her a couple nights ago and she was up in the caboose giving it the once over. I don't know if she knows the plan yet or if she just thinks I am building her a really big dog house ! :D


I am watching your build closely hopefully learning as I go along. I was in awe of your barn when I saw it last year. I'm planning to build a big doghouse on a frame that I picked that I picked up last year.
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Re: Bob's caboose build

Postby bobhenry » Mon Jul 16, 2012 7:38 am

Once again it's Monday and time for the Monday morning update.......

Still favoring my knee , I took time Saturday AM to motor to my buddy Jeff's to pick up some goodies he had been saving for me! I picked up a nice Ivory leather love seat sleeper sofa, Some 300+ square feet of 1/2 " drywall and 3 very nice counter tops. Well worth the investment in gasoline to get them.

Piddled a bit on the caboose but mostly just sat and studied what will go where.

Sunday AM was out bright and early (7 am thank God my neighbors are understanding)and fitted the purlin support blocks for the very front edge of the roof until my knee said no more ( got 3 of the 6 done) I turned my attention to AC electrical and drilled and routed the 12-2 with ground that I had salvaged from the original camper.

I had to unload the drywall from "The Barn to get ready for this weekends gathering at Tippecanoe State Park so I turned my attentions to the Barn camper. Checking tire pressure
( they were low) and lighting (the right turn was out) Repaired wiring at the 4 way flat plug in (the green wire had seperated at a splice I had made long ago.) Swept out the debris from hauling the construction materials and unloaded my aluminum roll out shade that will be installed on the caboose above the bagage door (thanks to Dan Galvin for that freebie) Repaired the little papertowel holder and reinstalled the rear latch that had a bad case of the droopies.

I once again found myself perched in my little caboose in a folding lawn chair sipping a cold one and day dreaming. Unable to contain myself and my curiosity I decided to frame in the right fenderwell.

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So insulating the metal with 1/2" foam I then added a 12" extention to the wall framing and built a 2x6 frame over the wheelwell to support the 3 burner stove flanked on either side by the mini fridge and the mini freezer.

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As I have stated before I will vent the fridge and freezer to the outside to aid in more effecient cooling and will insulate the sides with durock cement board to isolate them from the stove / oven.

On the opposite wall I took a hollow core door I had laying around and cut it to fit temporary as the counter and sink area. I had several 10" x 30" metal cabinets salvaged from the dumpster at the Ex's work so I temporarily installed them to get a feel for the kitchen area. Even went so far as to cut in the little RV double bowl sink and a faucet set we had lying about.

Image

I got out there early this morning before taking off for work and got these pics.
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Re: Bob's caboose build

Postby bobhenry » Mon Jul 16, 2012 8:47 am

Image

Yep: even I, was having trouble keeping up so here is the latest and greatest floorplan

The bath area will still trombone in and out as needed becoming the hallway to the rear door when collapsed down. This allows me to have a 25+ square foot bath area and a 25+ sq ft toilet area while only costing 20 sq feet total when not in use. The original rv blackwater tank and rv style toilet can be used so the "Litter box" can be emptied from outside eliminating tracking buckets thru the house.

The triangular cabinet will house all the entertainment goodies and at the bottom will be the electrical inlet and breaker panel. I have given up on an active front door. I located a 24x30 vinyl crank out casement window at Habitat for Humanity and will build the front wall with the window centered as a window lite in a faux front door just for the look. Below the window I will install the zero clearance fireplace Heater I purchased last week. The pullout pan storage wall appears to still be dooable but I need to get further down the road to be certain.

My main goal is to get weather tight as soon as possible that means concentrating on roof purlins sheathing insulation and installing the rubber roof and continuing with the sheathing. I am simply trying at this point to see where windows can be installed.

As of this writting I have decided to try and install the little 30 x 30 windows to the right side of the baggage door between it and the corner cabinet and a matching one in the toilet area keeping them symetrical in location.
On the couch side at least 2 possible 3 windows closely mated over the couch area and a single at the other end over the tub area. I would love to have one over the sink but feel the cabinets and appliance wall is far more important. The main baggage door has small lites in it as well to give some natural light. Adding some additional daylight and natural chimney venting will be the cupalo windows lites. I am tossing this out to my wizzened friends to see if I am on track or is there something I may have missed. Any crazy ideas are most welcome. Many of us have learned how to get a quart of pickles in a pint jar when designing and I am sure there are some tricks I may have overlooked.
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Re: Bob's caboose build

Postby bobhenry » Mon Jul 23, 2012 6:40 am

Well the zoning board certainly did NOT ignore me......Tiny House/SR 28 inquiryFriday, July 20, 2012 11:39 AMFrom: "Liz Stitzel" <[email protected]>Add sender to ContactsTo: [email protected]: "'Mark Mills'" <[email protected]>Robert,



We received your request concerning the "tiny house". We also did some searched online concerning the tiny house movement and as it appears they are permanently attached to a road worthy trailer with actual wheels (as opposed to just a chassis such as the case in Single Wide and Double Wide Mobile homes), are substantially smaller then a house, and are moved somewhat frequently - we will treat a tiny house the same as an RV as it is essentially a creatively shaped RV. This means that it is subject to the rules that govern RVs, can only be placed in a approved campground or no more than 7 days for a campsite outside of an approved campground. If you plan to have it parked repetitively on your site and for longer periods then you would need to petition the Board of Zoning Appeals (BZA) for Special Exception approval to have a personal campground for one campsite.



Secondarily, you state you wish to purchase a property in Jefferson for this purpose. I assume this is the parcel directly across 450 W from the Watertower, on the North side of SR 28? If so, that parcel is zoned R-2, Low Density Residential, and Private Campgrounds are not permitted in that zoning district. Before you could go to the Board of Zoning Appeals to ask for your campground, you would first need to go to the Area Plan Commission and request a rezoning to change to a district in which the BZA can give permission for a campground. Districts where personal campgrounds are permitted by Special Exception are Agricultural (A-1), Central Business (B-2), Roadside Business (B-3), General Business (B-4), Agribusiness (B-5), and Light Industrial (I-1). Campgrounds also have some development standards including a requirement of at least three acres. If you could not meet any of these standards you might also need special permission from the BZA to not meet them. Additionally this parcel (assuming I have the correct location), is right on SR 28. This means any development, including a campground, has to meet the SR 28 overlay ordinance designed to create a gateway to the community. Residential districts have some exemptions, but you will not be able to place your tiny house in a residential district legally. Houses of all types in all other districts in the State Road 28 overlay are strictly forbidden as the area has been earmarked for major commercial/industrial development. While some SR 28 standards such as lighting and signage will not pose much difficulty for you, others such as design/architectural review, earthen berming, landscaping, screening, etc could be challenging if your budget is limited. Of course the BZA and APC can waive these requirements as well, but given the fact that this land, like everything in the 28 corridor between Frankfort & I65, is intended for commercial development - getting the approvals may be difficult. If you decide to make an offer on this land I highly recommend making your offer contingent on getting the approvals you need to be able to use it so that you are not locked into buying something you cannot use.



If you think you want to pursue this in this location, please let me know and I can send you copies of the applications for hearings and the ordinances about campgrounds and the State Road 28 overlay. Also, if I have the wrong parcel, please let me know because a different parcel may have a different zoning and that could change whether you need to rezone.



I hope this is somewhat helpful,

Thank you,

Liz Stitzel

Zoning Administrator

765-659-6302

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Re: Bob's caboose build

Postby bobhenry » Mon Jul 23, 2012 7:07 am

On the way home from the summer gathering I tripped over a small train museum in Monon IN I had to stop.......

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Re: Bob's caboose build

Postby S. Heisley » Mon Jul 23, 2012 7:28 am

It sounds like you may have to purchase a different piece of land, maybe farther away from town. That's not necessarily a bad thing.
I'm confident that you will find a way, Bob.

...Beautiful caboose pictures!
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