Starting another Scotty

[len19070]

Chris

The windows are made by Hehr. They are the original windows from Scotty in 1966. "Hehr-L 2186"



Hehr is still in business but this window is obsolete....I think??

They were a very popular window used by many manufacturers.

Ebay or a vintage trailer parts place is about the only place I can think to find them.

Happy Trails

Len

[doug hodder]

Len I was wondering what your plan was for the door hinge and are you planning on a screen door as well. I'm almost there. Doug

[teardrop_focus]

Hehr! That's it. Thank you, Len!

[len19070]

Len I was wondering what your plan was for the door hinge and are you planning on a screen door as well. I'm almost there. Doug

Doug, I don't really 100% know yet. Other than the fact that I will be making it my self.

I have all the components available to me.

A Good Hardware company, A Brake and a screen window outfit that can make (or supply me the materials to make) a screen door.

To start with I'm using a 3" aluminum piano hinge and making a 1 1/2" thick door.

I will probably cut the hinge on the door side so there are 7 separate hinged pieces leaving the jamb side of the hinge the full legnth of the door. 3, 2" sections for the screen door and 4 for the main door, 2, 4" sections top and bottom and the other 2 will be apx 30".

Then I'll extend w/aluminum the 3, 2" sections for the screen door and bend them at a 90 Degree to be attached to the screen door. and mount the door to the remaining 4 sections of hinge.

This will let me hinge 2 doors, the outside and the screen doors on the same hinge.

Once that is done I can establish the thickness of the jamb, it should be about 2 1/2".

By building the jambs on my brake they will have to be installed separately on the trailer first, then the hinge and doors mounted after the jambs are in.

Kind of Bass Ackwards but that's the only way I can see of doing it making it myself.

Somebody out there makes and sells single offset hinges that will do the same thing, but there not continuous. And I feel that it will work and look better with a continuous hinge.

Its tough to enplane, I'll try to make a drawing and post it.

On my first Scotty I had the door jamb and screen door parts w/the offset hinge for the 2 doors and all I had to do was build and mount the new outside and screen doors.

Happy Trails

Len

Please excuse the quality of my preliminary "Napkin style" drawing. Many details are missing as decisions must be made as I go along.

[doug hodder]

That's kinda what I was thinking. I have a chunk of Grants door hinge that I played around with and came up with the same sort of idea. I just need to do it in wider materials for the hinge. I need to get with someone that has a brake to do the jamb. I thought about welding it up out of some thin aluminum extrusion, but they wanted $85 for the smallest tank of Argon and I'd rather save the dough to put into something else other than a few welds. Thanks! Doug

[len19070]

That's kinda what I was thinking.

I need to get with someone that has a brake to do the jamb. I thought about welding it up out of some thin aluminum extrusion, but they wanted $85 for the smallest tank of Argon and I'd rather save the dough to put into something else other than a few welds. Thanks! Doug

Doug

I used regular Brake metal doubled up and it works just fine.

I'll tell ya, that Brake is a handy item.

Here's a shot of a piece of scrap from a 3/4" compartment door frame.



Happy Trails

Len

[doug hodder]

Thanks for your postings and diagrams Len...I really appreciate them. Is your plan to hinge it from the front or the rear? Doug

[len19070]

Thanks for your postings and diagrams Len...I really appreciate them. Is your plan to hinge it from the front or the rear? Doug

All Scotty's were hinged from the rear.

So the rear it is. Kind of a suicide door.

And I guess that's better because when the door is open it doesn't block the front window.



Happy Trails

Len

[len19070]

A few minor setbacks

First was Mother Nature.



Then once I got it all dug out, thawed and stripped down to just the frame.



I discovered this;



Which really didn't surprise me, My last Scotty had a broken axle and I replaced it so why should this one be any different.

Unfortunately the trailer had a real nice surge brake system that I was going to refurbish.

Well that's not gonna happen now.

So we need a new axle and a new coupler to fit a 3" frame.

But wait, there are more delays.

After 5-6 days in a row with bright sunlight and a 40 degree temp. the snow has been melting at a tremendous rate...That's good?

Well yes it is but now we can get to all the downed trees on the property from the storm.



This photo only shows one small area. 2 Giant White Pines will have to be removed because of storm damage.



They can be seen in the background in this photo of the house.

Till then.

Happy Trails

Len

[lamacose]

I just dragged my '71 Highlander home last night. Hopefully by the end of the weeked it will be a bare chassis.

Looking at what is left, I can't really tell what Scotty used for the walls and ceiling.

The sides looks 1/2" or thicker and there isn't enough left to tell about the top.

What have you found?

I can only hope mine comes out as well as yours.

[len19070]

I just dragged my '71 Highlander home last night. Hopefully by the end of the weeked it will be a bare chassis.

Looking at what is left, I can't really tell what Scotty used for the walls and ceiling.

The sides looks 1/2" or thicker and there isn't enough left to tell about the top.

What have you found?

I can only hope mine comes out as well as yours.

lamacose

If your going to do a total rebuild, what ever you do...DON'T make the roof, front/rear the same way they did!

Look at the way I did my first one.



http://s26.photobucket.com/albums/c106/ ... ?start=all

I used 2X3's screwed through the sides...NOT 1X3's stapled into the edge of 1/2" plywood.

Happy Trails

Len

[lamacose]

Thank you

I hadn't thought aout 2x3s but that sounds pretty good.

So the walls are 1/2" plywood? That would save quite a bit of weight and a porportional amount of $$$.

I was thining about gluing 1/2" foil backed styrafoam to the inside and covering it with painted 1/8 or 1/4" luan for paneling.

[len19070]

Thank you

I hadn't thought aout 2x3s but that sounds pretty good.

So the walls are 1/2" plywood? That would save quite a bit of weight and a porportional amount of $$$.

I was thining about gluing 1/2" foil backed styrafoam to the inside and covering it with painted 1/8 or 1/4" luan for paneling.

I used Masonite inside for painting. It doesn't need any Prep work, Its already sealed, ya can tie it in a knot and it won't brake, and its cheap.

Also look into an EPDM rubber roof instead of the old aluminum..no seams, it can be draped over the sides (where all the leaks begin) and covered by the corner molding... and it looks good, even though it is high enough to not be seen.

Happy Trails

Len

[lamacose]

Good idea about the rubber roof. It is readily available around here at the truck repair places. My father in law had a Class A motor home with that and it lasted for ever.

Another good thought about the masonite, I was trying to figure out how I would make the bends. The DIY places have it with some texture and different surfaces.

As much as I would like to keep it original or as close to as possible, I am not a purist by any means. "We have the technology to make it better."

I plan on doing some serious upgrades to the electrical, but that is a whole different thread.

Once again, thanks for the info. I really enjoy the banter around this place.