Wiring the Hatch

[Capebuild]

When the hatch is wired to the connecting wires coming from the cabin are there any kind of quick disconnects? In other words, I see the wiring wrapped in the loom cover coming from the trailer to the hatch but I'm thinking there should be some way of disconnecting the wiring to the hatch in case the hatch needed to be removed for some reason. Any kind of junction box or male/female disconnects located in the loom I'm not seeing?

Thanks for the help.

John

[ricky herbold]

On my trailer, I installed a 4 pin deutsch plug just inside the cabinet face frame. I can pop the pins out of the connector if I ever need to remove the hatch. I put it inside just for looks and the plug doesn’t fit thru hole I drilled for the wire. That’s why I would have to remove the connectors. But I agree, you should have some way to disconnect the hatch. Just in case


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[Tom&Shelly]

I used a "TRW connector" that I found at a surplus store in Albuquerque. (Not sure, but I suspect it was used by the TRW automotive division at one time for the electrical stuff they built. It was never used on spacecraft, which was what their other division built. Or in credit checks, which they also did once.) I used it because I could mount one side to my electrical box in the galley and plug the hatch wire in there.

I would recommend some sort of good quality connector so you can remove the hatch without cutting the wires. I even rigged up a temporary cord with the same connectors so we could test our wiring/lights from the tow vehicle while the hatch was still sitting on the workbench.

Tom

[tony.latham]

I use two SAE connectors. One for the galley light and the other for the license plate light.

Tony

[dmdc411]

My lights are located on the hatch. I put a terminal strip on the hatch side. If it needs to be removed, wires are right there, and color coded! For wire flexibility, the wires are run inside horizontally run looming, one end clamped to the hatch, other end to the roof spar. So far, it's been trouble free.

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[Capebuild]

Thank you all for the replies and suggestions. So it seems to be a "good thing" to be able to disconnect the wires from the hatch. I would like to do that.
I need to find a male / female set up that can accommodate the 7 wires that will need to go into the hatch .....5 wires that feed the turn signals, license plate and
third brake light and 2 other wires that control the 2 puck lights embedded in the hatch. I'm sure there's a number of options, just have to find the right solution,
something that's on the small side.

Thanks again

John

[ricky herbold]

Deutsch DT Series 8 Pin Connector Kit w/Barrel Style Terminals 16-20 AWG
by Parts Universe

Learn more: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00D3S3O5O/re ... X126ZXF2BV


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[saltydawg]

I used something like this on my rear door.
https://www.amazon.com/AutoEC-Waterproo ... 32&sr=8-41

hereis something with more pins
https://www.amazon.com/Glarks-Waterproo ... 697&sr=8-9

[Capebuild]

I found these which will probably work fine. They fit 14 g wire. Small, compact.
Thanks again for the suggestions.

John