Air conditioner mounting ideas

[kd5edj63]

I know its a ways off before I will need air conditioning, but I have been researching AC and I see alot of problems people have experienced. I have a small $100 window unit I want to use, which is probably a pretty common quest. I have a couple ideas in mind, but I saw where a guy mounted his in the gally. My question on that is, wouldnt the gally need to stay open during use, and if not, wouldnt the butter in the gally melt
If I do it that way it shouldnt be an after thought. Thats why Im not waiting until May to ask these questions. What has everyone else done to beat the heat

[working on it]

I know its a ways off before I will need air conditioning, but I have been researching AC and I see alot of problems people have experienced. I have a small $100 window unit I want to use, which is probably a pretty common quest. I have a couple ideas in mind, but I saw where a guy mounted his in the gally. My question on that is, wouldnt the gally need to stay open during use, and if not, wouldnt the butter in the gally melt
If I do it that way it shouldnt be an after thought. Thats why Im not waiting until May to ask these questions. What has everyone else done to beat the heat

There are many with A/C units mounted in the galley, but as far as I know, mine is the only one to be designed to run with the vertical hatch closed, venting to the side and away from the trailer. I think there may be another, which vents the exhaust down and out below the trailer, but I can't find it now. Anyway, to do it again, I'd still want it in the galley (mine is a storage area, not kitchen...full of combustibles more sensitive than mere butter), able to run at night with the hatch locked. But, I'd vent it straight back, not to the side, with a louvered hatch within the main hatch, to allow exhaust out, but keep prying hands off my gear. Here are some photos:

[mikeschn]

Year ago I looked at many methods of doing a/c. Let me see if I can find the thread.

But at first blush, if you can get a dog house a/c that might be the best option.

Mike...

[mikeschn]

Okay, here's a few old ideas, starting in this thread... http://tnttt.com/viewtopic.php?p=4334#p4334

Mike...

[kd5edj63]

Thanks. I'll take a good look at the tread reference.

[Shadow Catcher]

Or don't mount it at all.
This is your $100 AC unit, that can be left home. There is a writeup viewtopic.php?f=30&t=44561

[Sputterputz]

Here is mine

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1381747522.556214.jpg (26.12 KiB) Viewed 1957 times

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1381747538.576543.jpg (27.31 KiB) Viewed 1957 times

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1381747568.353338.jpg (16.73 KiB) Viewed 1957 times

Sal

[kd5edj63]

I'm confused by the multiple ducting. Wouldnt it suffice to run just one hose that blows the cool air.
Edit. I take it the radiator looking thing in the front lower section is whats called the evaporator and air must pass through that to remove humidity. Is that correct

[aggie79]

I'm confused by the multiple ducting. Wouldnt it suffice to run just one hose that blows the cool air.
Edit. I take it the radiator looking thing in the front lower section is whats called the evaporator and air must pass through that to remove humidity. Is that correct

A window unit has two air "loops". One loop is to cool the compressor. Typically the intake for this loop is on the side of the A/C and the heated exhaust air is at the rear of the A/C.

The other loop is for the conditioned/cooled air. There is an intake (supply) side which can be either make-up air (fresh air from the outside) or return air (conditioned/cooled air that has been partially warmed and is recirculated back through the A/C). In the installation above one duct is for supply air (the cold side) and one side is for return air. By recirculating the air, the A/C will remove more moisture/humidity from the air than if it the supply air was from the outside and the A/C compressor will not cycle on and off as much. This is how I have our A/C setup. Of course, with the teardrop being air tight (Or pretty much air tight), we leave either the vent of a window cracked so that we don't die of CO poisoning.

[kd5edj63]

I'm confused by the multiple ducting. Wouldnt it suffice to run just one hose that blows the cool air.
Edit. I take it the radiator looking thing in the front lower section is whats called the evaporator and air must pass through that to remove humidity. Is that correct

A window unit has two air "loops". One loop is to cool the compressor. Typically the intake for this loop is on the side of the A/C and the heated exhaust air is at the rear of the A/C.

The other loop is for the conditioned/cooled air. There is an intake (supply) side which can be either make-up air (fresh air from the outside) or return air (conditioned/cooled air that has been partially warmed and is recirculated back through the A/C). In the installation above one duct is for supply air (the cold side) and one side is for return air. By recirculating the air, the A/C will remove more moisture/humidity from the air than if it the supply air was from the outside and the A/C compressor will not cycle on and off as much. This is how I have our A/C setup. Of course, with the teardrop being air tight (Or pretty much air tight), we leave either the vent of a window cracked so that we don't die of CO poisoning.

So it would still work if I mounted it completely outside, but only ran one duct, or would it not, or would it depend on where the loops are at on the unit. the unit is Zenith ZW5010YO
http://reviews.homedepot.com/1999/20207 ... ng&dir=asc

[Shadow Catcher]

The difficulty with using only the coolth output is that it does not dehumidify as well as a closed loop with some 'makeup air'. Compass Rose has roughly 400 cubic feet (Large for a tear) and having the system we do, works well to dehumidify. One of the problems for many 5,000 BTU AC units is that they will short cycle, get you down to cold quickly and then cycle so frequently that condensation from the coils does not accumulate and run off. Most AC units now are 'slingers' the condensate being hit by the outside fan and helping to cool the coils. My experience is that this is a bit noisy and not fun to listen to and I drill a hole (avoid drilling the coil, though it is repairable and do not ask me how I know this). The two, goes into and goes out of hoses one above the other in conjunction with the computer case fans make for good circulation and no cold/hot spots.

[steve cowan]

Yes,you can duct only the cold air inside.This is what i did and it worked good when it was very hot outside but in cooler weather the coil iced after a few minutes,probably not enough air flow due to ducting.I also "hacked" the on/off switch and thermostat and mounted inside .They are reconnected to the unit
via a plug.I plan to install an adjustable on/off timer to cycle the compressor maybe 7 minutes on and 5 minutes off.There are advantages and disadvantages of this installation method.

Steve

[working on it]

I'm confused by the multiple ducting. Wouldnt it suffice to run just one hose that blows the cool air.
Edit. I take it the radiator looking thing in the front lower section is whats called the evaporator and air must pass through that to remove humidity. Is that correct

A window unit has two air "loops". One loop is to cool the compressor. Typically the intake for this loop is on the side of the A/C and the heated exhaust air is at the rear of the A/C.

The other loop is for the conditioned/cooled air. There is an intake (supply) side which can be either make-up air (fresh air from the outside) or return air (conditioned/cooled air that has been partially warmed and is recirculated back through the A/C). In the installation above one duct is for supply air (the cold side) and one side is for return air. By recirculating the air, the A/C will remove more moisture/humidity from the air than if it the supply air was from the outside and the A/C compressor will not cycle on and off as much. This is how I have our A/C setup. Of course, with the teardrop being air tight (Or pretty much air tight), we leave either the vent of a window cracked so that we don't die of CO poisoning.

So it would still work if I mounted it completely outside, but only ran one duct, or would it not, or would it depend on where the loops are at on the unit. the unit is Zenith ZW5010YO
http://reviews.homedepot.com/1999/20207 ... ng&dir=asc

If you might still be considering a window unit, view it as having 3 "air zones" (for all practical purposes). The cabin cooling zone, the coil/compressor zone, and the exhaust. The cabin air is drawn in thru the filter, cooled, then issued thru the vanes. Some ambient temp air is drawn in, unless a recirculate setting is chosen, but mostly the already cooled cabin air is recycled. The coils/compressor are situated on the other side of the window/wall, and never receive the cooled air; but the ambient air surrounding the top and side louvers on the case must be exposed to temperate, not heated exhaust air. Just normal outside temp air (even Texas hot). The exhaust must be allowed to exit without any flow being held back, to overheat the coil or compressor (my mistake in re-routing the exhaust). In my A/C configuration, I learned to open the interior butterfly vents to allow enough uncooled ambient air into the cabin, to avoid "overcooling" and icing; I added an opened air vent in the galley (and later a case fan) to ensure the coil/compressor wouldn't overheat; and enlarged the outflow ducting (and a hi flow duct fan inline) to ensure that the exhaust wouldn't develop backpressure towards the unit). My efforts were successful on the third rebuild; but, I was committed to a permanently mounted unit, not removable like the others here have shown. Their engineering solutions are admirable, but I built my A/C system so my wife could just turn a switch (and open a coupla vents). No way would she be able to heft a unit in and out, and connect the tubes.

[kd5edj63]

Thats for all the input

[jstrubberg]

It will work, but you will be cool and wet instead of hot and wet.

You really want to duct both sides.