Alto Winter Warrior now with plans

[tears4mama]

I too am wondering how to insure that the wall strength is good for bunks. I have an 8yo and 6yo. They have impressed on me that they should sleep in the camper too!

[starleen2]

I too am wondering how to insure that the wall strength is good for bunks. I have an 8yo and 6yo. They have impressed on me that they should sleep in the camper too!

A little planning ahead will insure that you place a wall stud right where you are going to attach the bunks - And yes - if done in this manner - the wall will be sturdy AND secure enough. Same construction used on the ladybug WW

[chorizon]

For CNC cutting of plywood, you may have success asking companies that normally use their water-jet cutter on granite or marble, like for kitchen work-tops (US: counter-tops?).

I know the idea of water on bare ply will scare some folks, but I've used MDF that's been cut by water-jet with no trouble and you know what a sponge MDF is.

Andrew

Don't forget the LASER, most precision sheetmetal shops have them:

BTW Andrew, I used your .dxfs to laser out the sides on my build, thanks!

[Carter]

Not a lot of experience either. You could put the steel tube inserts but I would think a vertical 1x2 or 1x3 poplar sandwiched between the ply with good sized T nuts would be sufficient.

My 3 cents worth (inflation)

[mikeschn]

I've not decided how I am going to build this one yet...

I could use 1/2" plywood, like on the Giant TD.

Or I could do sandwich construction like I did on the weekender which Frank finished.

Or I could do a steel tubing sandwich, like Jim (Carter) is mulling over.

or I could do 1/2 or 3/4" plywood, lightened up, with aluminum on the outside, and something nice on the inside.

So many choices to make...

Mike...

[starleen2]

Lifting the hatch will be the Achilles heel of the project. The LBWW hatch is only eight feet long and constructed as light as possible with ply foam sandwich construction. – equivalent to six sheets of 5 mm luan . I don’t know if gas springs will be able to lift a 13 foot hatch without some stress on the hinge itself. I wonder what the Alto used for a lifting mechanism? Perhaps linear actuators?

[mikeschn]

My thoughts are to experiment with gas springs again, only this time, not so close to the hinge.

Once I have the gas springs lifting the top comfortably, I'll design the interior around them.

It's not an easy task, with so many unknowns.

Scott, when do you start your build?

I think I start mine next spring...

I found a place for the furnace. Can't find a place for the AC though. I think the hot water heater will go under the bed. I might have to move the axle rearward, if I get too much stuff under the bed. Speaking of which, I have a good question about potable water... I'll start a new thread for that though.

Mike...

[starleen2]

My thoughts are to experiment with gas springs again, only this time, not so close to the hinge.

Once I have the gas springs lifting the top comfortably, I'll design the interior around them.

It's not an easy task, with so many unknowns.

Scott, when do you start your build?

I think I start mine next spring...

I found a place for the furnace. Can't find a place for the AC though. I think the hot water heater will go under the bed. I might have to move the axle rearward, if I get too much stuff under the bed. Speaking of which, I have a good question about potable water... I'll start a new thread for that though.

Mike...

Got it rendered in SketchUp for an 11 foot model. Spent last Friday with a list in hand West Marine in Garland TX - with Mrs Starleen muttering, "he's nuts?" to the epoxy technician. I figure I might be able begin at the first of the year (if I behave myself)- I'm thinking about doing the hatch in foam/ fiberglass - seems about the lightest way to go. The cable and winch lifting mechanism certainly would have some merit here. I was unable to modify the LBWW to make it work (really didn't have the frame set up to run the cables) but it could work in this application

[mikeschn]

Scott,

A couple good ideas for sure.

Can you tell me more about the foam laminate roof you are considering?

Are you going to have any spars in it? Are you going to put the fiberglass and resin right on the foam? And you're talking EPS, right, or are you talking R-tech?

Are you going to use foam for the sides of the hatch too?

And you're planning on painting the whole thing?

Mike...

[starleen2]

Scott,

A couple good ideas for sure.

Can you tell me more about the foam laminate roof you are considering?

Are you going to have any spars in it? Are you going to put the fiberglass and resin right on the foam? And you're talking EPS, right, or are you talking R-tech?

Are you going to use foam for the sides of the hatch too?

And you're planning on painting the whole thing?

Mike...

Yes _ I am planning to have some spars in it – ¾” X 1 ½” to provide some additional structural support. For the sides of the hatch – I’m planning on the same type of construction. The general idea is to construct a minimal light weight frame out of laminated paneling strips to the thickness of the ¾ foam to get the curve and shape – then encapsulate the whole thing in fiberglass cloth (interior and exterior)– about 2 layers should get it. Probably will experiment with the types of foam to get the best results and less risk of delaminating. And finally – yes – it will have to be painted. After honing my fiberglass skills on the LBWW – I can achieve a very smooth finish for paint.

[mikeschn]

Sounds good Scott...

Take pictures, okay?

Mike...

[Ageless]

As far as raising the top; has anyone tried air cylinders? I'm sure with the smooth bore of plastic pipe; you might be able to cobble up an effective lift. And everyone has a 12V air pump

[rrawlings]

I have looked at electric linear actuators on Ebay. There is a seller with some that need to have the slip clutch replaced or repaired. From what I have found they are Warner brand and look like good items, I think for 50 bucks roughly with shipping I'll give fixing them a shot. If I can fix them I will use them to raise and lower the top on mine.

[starleen2]

Just a mention from a previous thread

original thread link

OK,
here goes. I think Lou means the part that attaches the seatbelt to the lower edge of the outer wall.


The first one is a side view hinge toward the right.


View looking aft


roller detail


Crank detail

[ARKPAT]

Scott the only problem I see is the bracing on both sides of each roller assemble needs to be designed for compression ( might intrude into living space ). If not the walls will pull inward as the roof is raised. Just a thought.


Good job in designing of the raised roof section. You might look at the old idea of 12 volt DC screw-driver on a lead screw on each side?





Pat