Doors that don't cost an arm and a leg?

[j.hensley]

The wife has given the okay on a tear build for a road trip next summer!

I've been researching doors. They're expensive! Is there a source for doors that aren't $$$?? I can't seem to find them.

I'm not oppose to building my own, but if they could be had for say around $300 for two- I'd rather buy and drop in!

Thanks in advanced!

[pohukai]

I know your pain. I had looked at salvage RV yards and even those were expensive. For me, when the cost of pre-fab doors began to approach 50% of the total cost of the camper budget, i decided to build my own. I reminded my self, this is a 'camper' and will probably be at most a dozen times per year.

I'm still happy with my decision.

[Wildfire]

Challenger doors seem to be the best price for a drop in solution. But that is going to run $600 or so for two doors with shipping.

[j.hensley]

It looks like building my own will be the most feasible option.

I'm really liking the Inka Outdoor trailer style of doors..

[working on it]

It looks like building my own will be the most feasible option.

I'm really liking the Inka Outdoor trailer style of doors..

• I find these doors a bit leaky, when exiting my '55 Gullwing Mercedes.

• 

  I wish.jpg (74.43 KiB) Viewed 2638 times

  "wish I may, wish I might, I've no Gullwing in my sight"
• Actually, I have no Mercedes, nor a gullwing door, but I've read that the top seal is problematic. Perhaps with a canopy overhead, or covered hinge, or hurricane-type hinge, like on a hatch, it would not pour water directly on top of you, but even experts have problems sealing these doors.

• 

  gullwing vs rain.PNG (121.03 KiB) Viewed 2638 times

  you can't carry a canopy when you drive a Tesla

[j.hensley]

Yeah, would definitely need some sort of flashing or gutter just above the hinge..

[tony.latham]

There was a post somewhere here that talked about the problem of opening and closing gull wings on a teardrop. Dunno....

Tony

[KTM_Guy]

I really like the gallwing doors, and have been thinking of them on my build.

Pro's
Big door opening.
Maybe some rain protection.

Con's
Bigger opening, more places to leak.
Big door more chance to warp. Which will lead to more leaks.
Four more gas struts to mount and size right.
Might need two points, one each side low to latch door.
Would need some type of grab bar or rope to pull door closed. Having a bad back I don't see the motion needed to close the door as a good thing for the back.
If you wanted to sleep with the doors open it would be full open or closed, unless there was a rope with a tie off spot.

Even with all the con's I'm still leaning that way.

[jondbar628]

Doors aren't that hard to build, if you use the blank you cut out of the sidewall. Sealing out water is the trick, regardless of how it opens..........jd

[cajundood]

definitely construct your own

[DWT77]

It looks like building my own will be the most feasible option.

I'm really liking the Inka Outdoor trailer style of doors..

This build had doors that open like that

gallery/image_page.php?album_id=1083&image_id=41419&sk=t&sd=d&st=0

[j.hensley]

It looks like building my own will be the most feasible option.

I'm really liking the Inka Outdoor trailer style of doors..

This build had does that open like that

gallery/image_page.php?album_id=1083&image_id=41419&sk=t&sd=d&st=0

I really like that build. Thanks!

[Florida Native]

I really like the gallwing doors, and have been thinking of them on my build.

...

Even with all the con's I'm still leaning that way.

I really like the gull wing door look, too. However, another con is that they will preclude the use of an awning or require that an awning be mounted very high to clear the door in the open position.



Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

[SnowLizard]

I have gone through this route recently, and even though I have a great concept of this design, it comes down to cost... and the ability to 'mirror' paper to wood.

here's the problems I've encountered designing these...

1) depth and demensions - how deep are they or 'thick' compared to the walls, then after I figure that how am I going to cover up the un-used depth or over-depth of the wall?
2) weight - the wall is designed on 3/4 outside, 1 inch mid and 1/4 inside, that's 2 inches, if the door was the same, how do I water proof that? "T" molding can only do so much, and the curve on the door frame would be a little difficult to make, FORCING a 'solid' frame, all 2 inches worth... this adds weight to the door and frame...
3) latch... all 'easy' latches are paddle handled, they would open by pulling the handle 'down'... were we need the vehicle door type handle Inka has... I have found the hardware from tri-mark... here's a link to the inside bezel.. when cost is added up, it's 150 per side on just the basic hardware, you get to figure out how to mount it up, link it together, and make it work... that's 300 for both doors, PLUS alot of time.
4) the ebay doors are cheaper in time and money in the end... the radius'd 2x3 doors are better for your time and money in the end, they are lighter and IF something goes south on the, replacing the entire door IS an option... where as your custom door, you get to figure it out.

Don't get me wrong, I have tried to design this gallwing door for 4 months, and I'm facing reality, the door itself will add 2-3+ months to my project (1 month plan, 2+ month doing)... where as the pre-made $350 doors will be bolted on in 1 day. it comes down to how much you want to spend on your trailer in time too... me it came down to build time and getting out there in the world, not worry'n about how to make a door work 90* from intended purpose... (yes I have asked the ebay sellers to make me a long door that can do that... )

[j.hensley]

I have gone through this route recently, and even though I have a great concept of this design, it comes down to cost... and the ability to 'mirror' paper to wood.

here's the problems I've encountered designing these...

1) depth and demensions - how deep are they or 'thick' compared to the walls, then after I figure that how am I going to cover up the un-used depth or over-depth of the wall?
2) weight - the wall is designed on 3/4 outside, 1 inch mid and 1/4 inside, that's 2 inches, if the door was the same, how do I water proof that? "T" molding can only do so much, and the curve on the door frame would be a little difficult to make, FORCING a 'solid' frame, all 2 inches worth... this adds weight to the door and frame...
3) latch... all 'easy' latches are paddle handled, they would open by pulling the handle 'down'... were we need the vehicle door type handle Inka has... I have found the hardware from tri-mark... here's a link to the inside bezel.. when cost is added up, it's 150 per side on just the basic hardware, you get to figure out how to mount it up, link it together, and make it work... that's 300 for both doors, PLUS alot of time.
4) the ebay doors are cheaper in time and money in the end... the radius'd 2x3 doors are better for your time and money in the end, they are lighter and IF something goes south on the, replacing the entire door IS an option... where as your custom door, you get to figure it out.

Don't get me wrong, I have tried to design this gallwing door for 4 months, and I'm facing reality, the door itself will add 2-3+ months to my project (1 month plan, 2+ month doing)... where as the pre-made $350 doors will be bolted on in 1 day. it comes down to how much you want to spend on your trailer in time too... me it came down to build time and getting out there in the world, not worry'n about how to make a door work 90* from intended purpose... (yes I have asked the ebay sellers to make me a long door that can do that... )

Well thought out. Thanks for the input!