Hatch props

[toypusher]

Tom,

Have you seen the CampInn way? I don't have any pics handy, but it is pretty simple and looks solid.

Kerry

[angib]

The hatch-lifting-in-the-wind problem has worried me and I see three alternatives:

- Use pins to lock both ends of the broomstick!

- Use the non-star-wheel type of door prop - I bet you can all remember the manual release type on the trunk lid of old cars. Austin Hardware do sell at least one like this:



- Gas props can be obtained with positive (manual) lock that stops them being closed.

Andrew

[Arne]

Camp-inn has a very nice system. It is an L shaped slot in an arm. When you open the hatch, the long side of the slot slides along a pin, and hits the end and gravity drops it into the short end of the L. Even it wind pushes on the hatch, the arm can not move unless lifted up..... great design.

[bdosborn]

Bruce, on your mechanical props, can the wind lift the hatch and let it drop? I read the blurb and it says it uses the star wheel system, where to close it, you lift it and drop it down to close. Can the wind do the same thing?

Not if you lock the props open. There's a hole through both slides that I put a pin through and it locks the props in place. I forget what the pin is called but it has a little ball bearing in the end so it can't come out of the hole. Push a button on the end of the pin and the ball bearing is retracted so you can remove the pin. You could also use a bolt as mentioned in an earlier post.
Bruce

[asianflava]

I forget what the pin is called but it has a little ball bearing in the end so it can't come out of the hole. Push a button on the end of the pin and the ball bearing is retracted so you can remove the pin. Bruce

Positive Locking Pin

[alaska teardrop]

when building prototype i was undecided on which system to use until i accidently dropped the trunk lid on my hand. pictured a little kids' head and decided right there to go with 100 to 120# gas struts on both sides. just like a cars' rear hatch, they help to raise the lid and you have to purposefully pull it down to close. the wind would blow your trailer away before the lid comes down. they don't allow the wind to blow it upward and break your hinge. . about $22.00 ea. at the rv dealer - easy to install or replace. cheap peace of mind. fred

[Endo]

I designed my hatch props after the one Mike put on his 4x8 teardrop.
My hatch is big and HEAVY! I wanted the props to be strong and lock in position. So I decided to make my own and install one on each side of the hatch. Making my own also allowed me to determine/control exactly how much my hatch opens (cut to desired length).

The "pivoting hardware" at the top and the bottom of the props are door stops with the rubber end cut off. The rods are conduit. The black padding is pipe insulation. The padding keeps the props from beating up the counter and the inside of the hatch when traveling. The props are locked in place with cotter pins at the top. When not in use pull out the cotter pins and the props fold down and rest on the counter.


Door stops used as "pivoting hardware"

[TomS]

The "pivoting hardware" at the top and the bottom of the props are door stops with the rubber end cut off. The rods are conduit. The black padding is pipe insulation. The padding keeps the props from beating up the counter and the inside of the hatch when traveling. The props are locked in place with cotter pins at the top. When not in use pull out the cotter pins and the props fold down and rest on the counter.

I'm trying to visualize how this would work for me. I have a couple of questions:

Are you able to secure the support the hatch with one hand and insert the door stop into that conduit with the other hand?

Now, assuming you've got the first support in place. How do you insert the door stop into the second support without the first support poping loose? if you put put the cotter pin in the first side, how do you lift the hatch high enough to insert the door stop in the second support.

[Endo]

I'm trying to visualize how this would work for me. I have a couple of questions:

Are you able to secure the support the hatch with one hand and insert the door stop into that conduit with the other hand?

Now, assuming you've got the first support in place. How do you insert the door stop into the second support without the first support poping loose? if you put put the cotter pin in the first side, how do you lift the hatch high enough to insert the door stop in the second support.

Tom,

I insert one of the door stops into the support, then I lift the hatch slightly and pivot the other door stop and slide it in to the other support.

The "pivoting action" allows you to insert the second support without the first support coming out. You can also cut the second door stop shorter than the first to make inserting the second one alittle easier.

I then insert both cotter pins.

I should also note that when I fold them down I fasten the two props together with a velcro strap. This stops them from bouncing while traveling.

I hope that makes sense.

[Ken A Hood]

Here's an idea I've been kicking around.


It's mounted to the sides with standard boat railing hardware; since the "tubing" is also Stainless Steel boating tubing (railing). On the corners are 90 degree fittings, which attach to the long piece (which runs the length of the interior galley dimension)

When it's in the open position, it "clips" into the 2 mounting brackets attached to the underside of the hatch. (similiar to the old screen door closers;with the spring catch)
90 Degree Elbow

I just drew this up real quick; (I have a dwg. saved somewhere) but hockeys on now so it will have to wait....