What Tool Are You Using to Make Your Cuts

[Roly Nelson]

Being an old construction framing/carpenter, I simply slapped a curved line on the plywood side with a fat color crayon, used a rough 6-toothed blade on my skill saw, making short, straight cuts around the curve to rough it out and then I chopped off the protrutions with a hand axe. I didn't get a great fit, but I'm not too fussy...wood putty covers a lot of mistakes.

Just throught that I would add a little humor to this post. I think it is called tongue-in-cheek. Actually the slow jig saw cut followed by belt sanding the edge, really works for this old cabinet maker. Give that a try.

Roly

[Lynn Coleman]

Hi Todah,

Like others, we used (still using) different saws for different cuts. Circular saw for major cuts in the plywood. Miter for small boards,(I really love that saw) Jig for circular cuts and tight places. We borrowed a friends electric planer and while it made a great cut on the pine, it was horrible on the plywood. So, I purchased an old hand plane from Ebay and it's working great. Today my husband used the plane on two of the edges making our two sides identical. Truthfully, I like the hand planer better than the electric for more precise work.

We borrowed a router from a friend for putting in spines (for a major mistake I made) and that works great as well.

But honestly for that smooth finish the hand plane is incredible. I went over the planed wood with the sander but it only took a couple seconds.

Hope that helps.

Lynn

[Bernoulli]

All jigsaws are not made equal. Bosch and Fein make the best. You can scour the mark with a razor knife and cut just outside the line. It won't lift up the grain this way. A Stanley 60 1/2 low angle block plane is an excellent finishing plane. Tuning it makes it better -- check the www on how to do that. As with the jigsaws, you can spend lots more money - and get a better plane, but the low angle block planes were designed specifically to cut across the grain so they work well on plywood edges. The blade has to be sharp!!

[IndyTom]

You know, depending on how thick the stock is that you are cutting, a skil saw with the blade set just barely deep enough to go all the way through, will cut really smooth curves as long as they are not too sharp. Im hoping to finally cut my sides this weekend and that is how I plan to cut the first one. The other will be cut like len suggested with a router and pattern following bit.

Tom

[Bernoulli]

If anyone uses this method make sure your Router is big enough. If it isn't, go very slow. I have done this on 3/4" material with a 1 1/2 HP Router. But now I have a 3 HP.

Happy Trails

Len

Manufacturer horsepower ratings no longer have any meaning. A better power measurement is operating amperage. About 12 Amps at 115VAC (6 Amps at 230VAC) is roughly one horsepower. The maximum you can get away with on a 20 Amp 115VAC circuit is 18 Amps - 1 1/2 (true) horsepower. Manufacturers have been assuming 100% efficiency (65% is reality) and using the number of watts consumed when the lights go out as a horsepower rating. Campbell-Hausfeld lost a class action suit for misrepresenting air compressor horsepower, but that hasn't stopped them or anyone else from making these claims. All that being said, whenever possible use 230VAC to power your electric motors. They will run cooler, smoother and last longer

[Bernoulli]

All jigsaws are not made equal. Bosch and Fein make the best.

I talked with a French Polisher (master repair/finish craftsman) friend last night and he said he prefers Festool jigsaws. They are more expensive still, but he has been using his commercially for years with no problems.

He has started his second stitch and glue boat and will help me with my design and construction.

[GerryS]

All jigsaws are not made equal. Bosch and Fein make the best.

I talked with a French Polisher (master repair/finish craftsman) friend last night and he said he prefers Festool jigsaws. They are more expensive still, but he has been using his commercially for years with no problems.

He has started his second stitch and glue boat and will help me with my design and construction.

And, the cut quality is FANTASTIC. My festool jigsaw gives a finish ready cut, with no tear out and great dust collection.

[WhitneyK]

I use a DeWalt jig saw for my curved or fine detail cuts. I found out after I purchased it that you get what you pay for. I was used to jig saws jumping up and down when you turn them on. Not with my DeWalt, must have a counter balance or something because it is as smooth as a circular saw. Also, you have the option of a variable speed trigger, 3 orbital blade degree's, and an adjustable blower to keep the line free of dust. The quick , no tools required blade changer is handy too.

Another trick I found when using jig saws (while installing laminate flooring) was to turn the blade around backwards to start intricate cuts. This allows you to place the majority of the saws base plate on the piece to be cut without trying to start the cut while "barely hanging on" with the front edge of the base plate. (hope that makes sense) You simply pull it "backwards" into your piece until you have made a long enough cut to turn your blade around and go the "right" way.

[LDK]

I use a bosch jig saw, sears craftsman table saw, ryobi miter saw, black and decker circular saw.