CPES alternatives?

[Lou Park]

So do I understand this correctly? Paint or glue will stick to the wood after using these products?
Lou

[aggie79]

So do I understand this correctly? Paint or glue will stick to the wood after using these products?
Lou

Short answer:

Paint - "yes", Glue - "maybe"

Generally, paint will adhere to the epoxy if the epoxy is scuffed with sandpaper to give the epoxy "tooth."

Glues are another matter altogether. You still need to scuff the epoxy, first. Wood glues like Titebond II or III won't adhere. PL Premium construction adhesive will adhere, but the bond is not as strong as wood to wood. I don't have experience with any other adhesives.

[madjack]

...yep most paints can be used, especially urethane based marine paints as well as automotive finishes...read labels and follow manufacturers guidelines...urethane adhesives such as aggie79 stated will work, this is one spot where Gorilla Glue can really shine...once again, read and follow manufacturers recommendations.............
madjack

[planovet]

Paint has stuck to my CPES'ed sides pretty well so far

Two coats of CPES, three coats of primer and five coats of topcoat.

[TomW]

I did not use the RAKA products. It was not that RAKA was bad or anything, just a price issue at that time. I used the thin epoxy from U.S. composites with the slow hardener.

I used 3", 3oz fiberglass tape on the seams and then put three layers of epoxy over the entire 5/x 10 Generic Benroy. I used two coats of automotive primer and then two coats of an automotive top coat. So far, the paint is holding up.

As for coverage. I bought a 3 gallon kit. Two gallons of resin and 1 of hardener. I still have enough mix/resin for about 3/4 of a gallon of mixed product.

[synaps3]

I'll probably do a single layer of CPES for penetration(1gal kit will work for a single coat), followed by Raka epoxy (3 gal kit). It will completely kill my budget, but I'd rather build something to last decades rather than years. I'll skip the fiberglass cloth though; that seems like a bit of overkill for my application.

Madjack (or anyone else) -- how important is it to use the marine epoxy (er... urethane?) paint? Can I just use some semigloss house paint and hit it with a few coats to save $100?

Planovet -- I REALLY like the results you got with your side paneling. That's gorgeous. What kind of paint / topcoat did you use, and how did you apply it?

[planovet]

Planovet -- I REALLY like the results you got with your side paneling. That's gorgeous. What kind of paint / topcoat did you use, and how did you apply it?

Thank you. Most people that see it for the first time can't tell it's painted wood. When I bought the trailer, they told me what paint they used for it...Valspar Supreme Acrylic Enamel. I wanted the side to match the trailer so I bought the same paint to use for the sides. A gallon was 90 something dollars, not including the reducer and hardener. It's a trailer paint that has a hardener that you mix with it. I thinned it out with a reducer and applied it with a foam roller. I would have liked to have sprayed it but I don't have any experience in that area. Not to mention I don't have a spray booth or a sprayer. It turned out better than I had hoped.

I would stay away from house paint. Many people that have used it say it's very hard to keep clean. In my opinion, it's best to spend the extra $ and put on a coating that will last.

[Ageless]

Check eBay for automotive finishes; there are some good deals in you do some digging.

[madjack]

...although it has been used...with mixed results, I wouldn't personally use house paint on anything but a house
madjack

[skuntz]

I was doing a bit of reading on penetrating epoxies and came across this: http://www.epoxyproducts.com/penetrating4u.html.
It appears that penetrating epoxy is simply epoxy with more solvent and the article mentions a savings in $$ by thinning regular epoxy which appears to be a common concern.
Any thoughts?
Steph

[madjack]

I have used a little epoxy but am not an expert by any means BUT be careful what you mix with your epoxy, it can cause unwanted reactions ranging from not setting up, setting up too fast or even getting hot enough to melt plastic buckets(don't ask how I know)...if you just gotta, then experiment with small batches...remember, if using such for sealing, the solvents evaporative process will leave "openings" in the epoxy that will allow water/moisture into your work piece..........
madjack

[synaps3]

How long will the epoxy covered with a urethane marine paint finish last?

Is it something that will be lifetime, or will I have to redo this every few years..?

[Lawnjockey]

Marine enamels are the way to go unless you want to spend the bucks for two part paints. In regard to two part paints they are very hard and tend to crack, they can also go flat thus requiring another coat.

In regards to enamels I like Interlux and Zspar with a preferance for Zspar. Even though the directions advise against it I mix different brand thinners. I use T-10, 333 and Penetrol although not so much Penetrol these days. 333 is an Interlux product and it really helps brushing.

These products hold up to many years of salt and sun without loosing their gloss. Refinishing is easy. Don't forget marine glazing compound (not for windows, for small ding repair). Interlux also makes a sanding primer for rough surfaces and saves some coats but it tends to absorb moisture so I wouldn't use it in a damp area.

Many high end boat builders use West products exclusively for epoxies except they go to Smith and Company for their penetrating epoxy, it is that good. The other day someone was asking about filling srew holes, West makes a micro filler that iis a powde. you mix with epoxy. It sands well and is perfect for that application.

An epoxy tip that will save you some cash and your liver is to use viniger for hand cleaning and clean up. It is a lot cheaper than acetone.

Jocko

[Lawnjockey]

More on epoxy paint:

It is expensive and very hard. I would not go so far as to say it will last a lifetime but it lasts longer than enamel. Even the pros have problems with it going fat or orange peeling. The thinners fillers, etc are very expensive. When it cracks you get big flakes that are hard to repair and tend to grow when you try. The stuff is so hard it is hard to prep for refinish. I stopped using it on wood boats and went back to enamels. I found it was a more suitable product for steel, aluminum and glass boats. Oh, and did I mention the danger of brain damage if you don't wear proper protection? At least that is my excuse for my lowly stature in life.

Jocko

[synaps3]

Maybe it's more worth it to use enamels rather than epoxies then (for the surface layer). I am by no means an expert, so simplicity is key.

I've heard a lot of good things about West too. I'll have to see how they compare to Raka in terms of price later tonight...

Thanks for the tips.

- Dave