Counter top

Anything to do with mechanical, construction etc

Postby Conestoga » Wed Mar 10, 2010 6:02 pm

bobhenry wrote:Then there is ceramic tile.......Image

Knives and hot pans don't scare it !

Set them and seam fill them with bathtub caulk instead of thinset then the shock and vibration will not loosen them.


nice! what if you made an frame under the rows of tile (maybe use a couple of the larger tiles instead)
and then can remove the tiles to access storage underneath.
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Postby Jst83 » Wed Mar 10, 2010 6:05 pm

:lol: This thread has taken a whole nuther turn, not that I mind lots of good ideas going on here for galley counter tops :thumbsup:
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Postby Conestoga » Wed Mar 10, 2010 6:10 pm

Jst83, what about teak? if it starts to look nasty just sand it down, good as new.
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Postby Jst83 » Wed Mar 10, 2010 6:15 pm

Conestoga wrote:Jst83, what about teak? if it starts to look nasty just sand it down, good as new.


:thinking: Is it lite wood? and found in a 2'x4' piece, and don't you still have to cover it with some type of sealant cause I'm sure I'll spill something on it
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Postby bobhenry » Sat Mar 13, 2010 3:20 am

Good old polyurathane about 4 coats

and I'll pick ya up a cutting board at Goodwill so you arn't hacking on it with a knife chopping up onions or something.
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Postby prohandyman » Sat Mar 13, 2010 7:44 am

Scott
Have looked at all the different Formica or WilsonArt laminates available?
There are ALOT of selections, even some pretty cool wood looks! And the same characteristics of the counter in your house.
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Postby quadworks » Sat Mar 13, 2010 9:49 am

Some pretty cool ideas here!
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Postby Nobody » Sat Mar 13, 2010 11:02 am

bobhenry wrote:Good old polyurathane about 4 coats

and I'll pick ya up a cutting board at Goodwill so you arn't hacking on it with a knife chopping up onions or something.


Yes on the polyurethane! I put about 4-5 coats on my 3/4" birch ply counter top(s) (& the extra tables) in early 2007. Still looks good & so far is impervious to spills of all kinds. Susceptible to scratches'n wear but not overly so. Easy to 'repair' with a few brush strokes if needed; so far ours hasn't ;) . I'd do it again :thumbsup: May do it this spring as some of the 'wall fabric' is beginning to show age/wear & will need replacing.

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Postby john » Sat Mar 13, 2010 1:08 pm

Seeing as how the OP OK'ed slightly of topic posts, I thought I suggest another counter top choice.


On both of my builds I used prefinished hardwood flooring. Being that it is intended for floor use it is fairly durable.

The big box stores often have a single box or just a few boxes of a particular style or wood type. They sell it cheap as it's not enough to do a room. A single box is often 15-20 sq/ft which is plenty for a counter top or as in my last build, multiple counter tops and drawer fronts.

The wood is often exotic and prefinished. On my last build I found i was able to glue the tongue and grooves together and form a single board.

$10 bucks can go a long way.

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Re: Counter top

Postby Classic Finn » Sat Mar 13, 2010 1:30 pm

Jst83 wrote:I'm thinking of going with a wood counter top in the new build.
What's the best thing to seal a real wood counter top with that would be food safe and still totally seal out moisture such as spills etc.?
Not worried about heat on it or cutting as most of that would be done on small table beside the camper because the counter will only be 40" wide.


Scott we used natural natural wax on our countertop and it is very good, no worries. Brings out the natural wood grain also. Call it the Scandinavian way. ;) :thumbsup: Food Safe Scott.

Scott remember this? 3 coats and looks Finntastic :D

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Re: Counter top

Postby Jst83 » Sun Mar 14, 2010 9:00 am

Classic Finn wrote:
Scott we used natural natural wax on our countertop and it is very good, no worries. Brings out the natural wood grain also. Call it the Scandinavian way. ;) :thumbsup: Food Safe Scott.

Scott remember this? 3 coats and looks Finntastic :D

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That is beautiful, maybe a silly question what is natural wax, does it have a name?
I have plenty of 10' red oak boards I could use.
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Postby bobhenry » Sun Mar 14, 2010 9:13 am

Growing older but not up !
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Postby Jst83 » Sun Mar 14, 2010 9:25 am

bobhenry wrote:More than you want to know ......http://www.wwch.org/Technique/Finishes/FinWaxForm.htm


:? Read it once Probably need to read it a couple time for it to sink in
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Re: Counter top

Postby Classic Finn » Sun Mar 14, 2010 4:42 pm

Jst83 wrote:
Classic Finn wrote:
Scott we used natural natural wax on our countertop and it is very good, no worries. Brings out the natural wood grain also. Call it the Scandinavian way. ;) :thumbsup: Food Safe Scott.

Scott remember this? 3 coats and looks Finntastic :D

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That is beautiful, maybe a silly question what is natural wax, does it have a name?
I have plenty of 10' red oak boards I could use.



Scott

with you having nice red oak boards you can have a beautiful counter. Go for it. :applause: :thumbsup:

Its a product called Bloom. Its a mixture of Beeswax and Carnuba. Its specifically made for countertops here that may be in touch with foods.
This does not leave a sticky surface either. Has a nice aroma to it as well. ;)

Another product that is basically the same is by OsmoColor. This is a German company but very popular. Im sure you have a similar brand or product in the States too. We love it. The counter is easy to clean and it brings out the wood grain nicely. ;) :thumbsup: Also this withstands moisture very well. This particular wax we used was in the form of oil that is easily brushed on then let dry for an hour or so and then apply another coat on.
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Postby Grid Runner Adventures » Sun Mar 14, 2010 8:56 pm

anyone here have sheet metal counter tops? looking for some pic's and processes you used to make them.
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