24 gauge non-galvanized sheet steel is 0.0239 and 24 gauge sheet aluminum is 0.0201kennyrayandersen wrote:oicu812 wrote:Thanks Kenny ray,that's the infomation I needed for comparison. I was thinking about 2" blue styro sandwiched between 24 ga. stainless
[1.03 lbs sq. ft.]. 6' tall/13' long with tear profile, about 60sq. ft. 125 lbs. for one finished wall. That sounds comparable to plywood, maybe a little less than ply.
You would surely fail the core LONG before you failed the skins. Generally the skins and core are sized to fail not so far from each other. I have no memory -- remind me how thick the 24 gage sheet steel is? You may be able to use thinner material than that. Typically .02 inches is a pretty robust facesheet for an aluminum honeycomb panel -- steel has thee time the stiffness of aluminum...
ya, the boat deck I mentioned is for a 40 foot luxury pleasure craft and consideration was given to weight more than durability.. it should last but care must be exercised..eamarquardt wrote:A friend of mine has built several commercial fishing boats out of Airex foam and glass/polyester. One of his boats has been around over 30 years and is going strong. Although a little wood is used here and there (for engine stringers for example which take a lot of vibration from the diesel engines) there is little to no wood used in the construction of the decks and superstructures (he doesn't build the hulls and they are solid glass/polyester).
He does put more mat, roving, and glass on the decks than youse guys are talking about but his boats are holding up under some pretty rough service and doing well. There is no doubt in that a lightweight and durable tear can be constructed out of foam/glass. Maybe just a bit more material in the outside skin than is currently being discussed.
His web site is www.sbmar.com. No pics of the foam construction underway though. His boats look "factory" when he's done but they are all "hand made" foam glass construction with no molds being used.
Cheers,
Gus
I'm either going to use a combination of polished and painted aluminum or wood veneer and polished aluminum.. either way it will only be decorative panels attached to aluminum "H" the Nidacore will essentially be an interior wall with 1 inch foam between the sheet and the skin.. the metal 'H' will be PL'd to the Nidacore, foam will be slipped in the groves of the 'H' and the skin will be either PL'd (veneer panels) and or 3M tape for the metal.glassice wrote:afreegreek how are you going to finish the out side Lauan ?
afreegreek wrote:here's something that has a lot of good qualities.. Nida-core
it's a plastic honeycomb core with thin ply on each side.. at the shop I'm at, we use it for floors over an aluminum stringers.. 3/4 spans 24 inches and feels solid underfoot. it's not that pricey either.. and comes in several thicknesses.
I'm planning to use it to make my next trailer.. a 16-18 ft TT
http://www.nida-core.com/spanish/nidapr ... eneers.htm
http://www.nida-core.com/pdfs/pds/nidac ... _Lauan.pdf
aggie79 wrote:Dibond might be another material to look at. The 3mm thickness is about 0.75 pounds per square foot. It may be rigid enough to use with just a perimeter aluminum frame.
kennyrayandersen wrote:afreegreek wrote:here's something that has a lot of good qualities.. Nida-core
it's a plastic honeycomb core with thin ply on each side.. at the shop I'm at, we use it for floors over an aluminum stringers.. 3/4 spans 24 inches and feels solid underfoot. it's not that pricey either.. and comes in several thicknesses.
I'm planning to use it to make my next trailer.. a 16-18 ft TT
http://www.nida-core.com/spanish/nidapr ... eneers.htm
http://www.nida-core.com/pdfs/pds/nidac ... _Lauan.pdf
Basinranger wrote:I've been following this site & the discussion of using cheap insulation foam like you'd get @ home depot as a structural core.(I assume we are talking about blue dow foam insulation board - although there are MANY dow foams that are blue... only three are listed as structural foam - panel core 20 30 & 40 - and you don't find it at home depot...)
My first response is are you kidding? I'm looking forwards to seeing the results of using cheap foam structurally because if it works it would be great! It's a big leap from using thick ply skins with extensive solid wood infills and cheap insulation board glued in to an actual "composite sandwich structural panel" - meaning a panel where the skins take the load, giving you the weight savings & stiffness which make the trouble & expense worth it.
Never having made anything out of it I can't say it wouldn't work - but I have made many panels & structures out of structural cores - mainly balsa with both ply & glass skins bonded with epoxy.
Here's the argument for why it's a terrible idea - Without getting into too much detail the core material needs to have two main properties beside holding the two skins apart. It has to have sufficient compressive strength to keep the "top" skin from buckling - so it transfers the load efficiently to the other skin. Also it has to have enough shear strength to keep the skins from de-bonding & sliding off the core. It's also useful to have enough compressive strength to resist spot loadings from impacts.
Dow doesn't list the structural properties of it's cheap insulation foam - because it's not structural...
But here's how it's structural foam compares to the structural core materials I'm familiar with. Their properties get stronger as the density goes up in weight.
Dow Panel Core 20 - 20psi in compression 25 psi in sheer
Dow Panel Core 30 - 30psi in compression 35 psi in sheer
Baltek BalsaCore - 917psi to 3813psi in compression, 262psi to 712psi in sheer
Nida-core's H8PP 10 to 25 - 188psi to 348 psi in compression, 72psi to 87psi in sheer
Core Cell - 80psi to 336 psi in compression, 98psi to 287 psi in sheer
It's a good idea to know the basic properties of the materials you are using - often that explains their attractive price... I consider using 13.00 a sheet foam structurally to be a big risk - if anybody has experience with it or better yet Dows Panel Core product I'd love to hear about it, building lighter is better! Peter
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