exterior paint

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Postby atahoekid » Sun May 22, 2011 11:13 pm

This article got me thinking (overthinking?) my paint choice for the trailer

http://www.simplicityboats.com/latexcarnel.html

To summarize, this guy, who worked for a major paint company and might even be a chemist, advocates latex house paint for boats for 2 reasons 1) he says that latex paint is made of the same components as marine paint and 2) anything with the word "marine" on it simply just costs more. He also makes other convincing arguments for using acrylic latex paint and has me leaning toward using "house" paint for my trailer.

Anyone want to shed light on the down side of my thinking? I am now confused!! :? :?

Thanks for the input,
Mel

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Postby dh » Mon May 23, 2011 1:42 am

From the West System user manual:

Latex paints are compatible with epoxy, even partially cured epoxy, and they do an adequate job of protecting the epoxy barrier from UV radiation. In many architectural applications, latex paint may be the most suitable coating to use. Thier durability is limited.
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Postby dh » Mon May 23, 2011 1:57 am

Condensed from the West Systems user manual:

Alkyd Finishes: ...easy application low cost... low UV resistance, low abraision resistance...

Polyurethanes: ... better properties than alkyds... some may be incompatible with amine cure epoxies, make a test pannle...
Last edited by dh on Mon May 23, 2011 10:40 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Postby dh » Mon May 23, 2011 2:10 am

From the West System user manual:

Epoxie paints are available in one part or two part versions. Two part epoxies offer many characteristics similar to the higher performance polyurethanes. They are durable and chemical resistant, but offer limited UV protection compared to linear polyurethanes.
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Postby dh » Mon May 23, 2011 2:32 am

From the West System user manual:

Two-part linear polyurethane (LP) paints offer the most durable protection available. LP's are available as pigmented or clear coatings and offer excelent UV protection, gloss retention, abrasion resistance, plus compatibility with epoxy. However, compared to other types of coatings, they are expensive, require more skill to apply and present a greater health hazard, especially when sprayed.

I researched LP paints, they are way out of most home builders league.
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Re: here is my initial resul

Postby H-Balm » Wed May 25, 2011 5:56 am

Riken wrote:here are the recommend uses:
For use over prepared substrates such as steel, galvanizing, and
concrete in industrial environments.

• Nuclear Power Plants
• DOE Nuclear Fuel Facilities • Nuclear fabrication shops
• DOE Nuclear Weapons Facilities

• This product meets specific design requirements for non-safety
related nuclear plant applications in Level II, III and Balance ofPlant, and DOE nuclear facilities*.
* Nuclear qualifications are NRC license specific to the facility.
:?



Good enough for a Nuclear Facility?
:oops:

That is SOME teardrop!
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Postby atahoekid » Wed May 25, 2011 6:38 pm

dh wrote:From the West System user manual:

Latex paints are compatible with epoxy, even partially cured epoxy, and they do an adequate job of protecting the epoxy barrier from UV radiation. In many architectural applications, latex paint may be the most suitable coating to use. Thier durability is limited.


Except for being towed down the road, a house is exposed to the same weather and conditions as a teardrop. Not sure how they can state that the durability is limited... HMMMM
Mel

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Postby atahoekid » Wed May 25, 2011 6:38 pm

dh wrote:From the West System user manual:

Latex paints are compatible with epoxy, even partially cured epoxy, and they do an adequate job of protecting the epoxy barrier from UV radiation. In many architectural applications, latex paint may be the most suitable coating to use. Thier durability is limited.


Except for being towed down the road, a house is exposed to the same weather and conditions as a teardrop. Not sure how they can state that the durability is limited... HMMMM
Mel

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Postby dh » Wed May 25, 2011 9:02 pm

If you arn't familiar with the West System user manual, it apears to be geared towards boaining applications. Latex house paint in a marine environment...
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Postby atahoekid » Sun May 29, 2011 8:31 pm

dh wrote:If you arn't familiar with the West System user manual, it apears to be geared towards boaining applications. Latex house paint in a marine environment...


I don't think that latex house paint is a good idea in a marine environment. While a TD does have to be able to withstand a rugged environment, so does a house. My opinion is that a TD doesn't have to be capable of withstanding a marine environment, just capable of withstanding the outdoors. I don't think anyone has yet convinced me that it is a bad idea.
Mel

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Postby Kim Armstrong » Sun May 29, 2011 10:01 pm

Where I work we use that SW 2part paint to paint the concrete floors. We have people walking on it all the time plus it gets motor oil and diesel fuel on it. Plus it gets mop down with some pretty stout soap and water everyday. We paint the floors about every 3yrs. We roll about 1 coat on and after about 2yrs the color fades some but does'nt peel. Dries to a semi gloss to a gloss finish. Hope this helps.
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Postby dh » Tue May 31, 2011 1:24 am

Laytex house paint may work for a teardrop. However, I feel that it would look home made. Maybe pull out the Wagner?
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Postby kennyrayandersen » Sat Jun 04, 2011 7:17 am

Kim Armstrong wrote:Where I work we use that SW 2part paint to paint the concrete floors. We have people walking on it all the time plus it gets motor oil and diesel fuel on it. Plus it gets mop down with some pretty stout soap and water everyday. We paint the floors about every 3yrs. We roll about 1 coat on and after about 2yrs the color fades some but does'nt peel. Dries to a semi gloss to a gloss finish. Hope this helps.


It sounds really durable, the only thing is that the plant floors are indoors, so it doesn't really answer the question as to the UV exposure when the paint is exposed to sun.

I always thought that the polyurethanes were supposed to be the best, the epoxies having limited UV capability. The 2-part urethanes are expensive huh?

And either way, I think a layer of fiberglass would go a long way in maintaining the integrity of the painted finish.
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Postby KenC » Sat Jun 04, 2011 11:18 am

I used Pettit Easypoxy Topside paint, applied with a foam roller, then tipped with a foam brush, 1 quart each wall, which is 4 x 10. sanded with a block sander by hand with 320 between each coat. here is a link showing how to apply 3 like types of paint but different brands.

http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/us ... side+Paint
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Postby dh » Sat Jun 04, 2011 8:51 pm

The 2 part polyurethanes are not only expensive, but my comment about being out of most home builder's league was more for the application process. I only found 1 citation of it being brushed on, and two pros were putting it on as a team, brushed on and imediately tipped. I've also read that it can be challenging to spray.
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