Pattern / worktable

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Pattern / worktable

Postby JunkMan » Mon Jan 10, 2005 10:26 pm

I was thinking about making the pattern for the sides of my tear. Most of the things I have made in the past did not require a pattern, so I'm trying to figure out the best way to make one.

What if I made the pattern out of 3/4 particle board, then attached legs to the bottom, so I could also use it as my workbench. It would be the right shape to clamp everything down, and wouldn't move around when I was working on it. When looking at pictures of other peoples construction, it seems like clamping things (framing) down it might be a problem, when the work bench is rectangular, and the part you are building is sort of an oval (unless I screwed clamps to the bench like Steve does).

The question is, would it work as a work table and a pattern, or should the pattern be something seperate that I can flip over and move around (Could I make both sides with just one side of the pattern facing up)?
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Postby asianflava » Mon Jan 10, 2005 11:20 pm

That sounds like a genious idea. :applause: I didn't know any better and used thin (1/4in) ply for my pattern.
I had problems joining the pieces and during the cutting. The pattern was thin and when the router base encountered a bugger, I'd have to lift it to get over it. Then the top bearing bit I was using would cut into my pattern. With a thicker pattern you wouldn't have this problem (you'd also use a bottom bearing bit). You also wouldn't have flexing problems either.

If I were to do it over, I'd make a pattern out of 3/4 MDF. As long as you don't have to move it, it would be fine.
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Postby andysbunny » Tue Jan 11, 2005 9:03 am

I totally agree. I was planning on a pattern as well, and then cut the inside and outside wall panels with it.

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Postby TRAIL-OF-TEARS » Tue Jan 11, 2005 10:13 am

I used a paper pattern I made using My cad program then printed it full size. It took 6 36x46 sheets. I just taped them to the plywood and cut both sides out together with the good ol jigsaw. I started out using my plung router but I felt Like I had better control using the jigsaw. Then used a belt sander to make sure they were identical.
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Postby Ken A Hood » Tue Jan 11, 2005 10:26 am

TRAIL-OF-TEARS wrote:I used a paper pattern I made using My cad program then printed it full size. It took 6 36x46 sheets.


What CAD program are you using? I have AutoCad 2005, and have several profiles I'd like to eventually get plotted and keep a "library" for myself. I think I might have contacted you in the past about doing a plot for me. The current profile I'm going with is approx. for a 5' x 11-12'.

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Postby JunkMan » Tue Jan 11, 2005 10:26 am

One reason I was thinking about making a thicker pattern was to give me a better surface for the router bearing to ride on. My son suggested MDF board, but I can get particle board in 5' x 9' sheets, and am thinking about making the sides 9' long. This will allow me to have a 1 piece pattern.
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Postby TRAIL-OF-TEARS » Wed Jan 12, 2005 11:52 am

[/quote]

What CAD program are you using? I have AutoCad 2005, and have several profiles I'd like to eventually get plotted and keep a "library" for myself. I think I might have contacted you in the past about doing a plot for me. The current profile I'm going with is approx. for a 5' x 11-12'.

Thanks[/quote]
Ken,
I work mostly with Microstation J and v-8 but I do have Autocad 2002, 2004 and just got 2005 last month but I have not installed it yet. If you want you can e-mail me the files and I can get prints made and mail them back to you. send me a PM and we can work out the details.
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Re: Pattern / worktable

Postby Steve Frederick » Wed Jan 12, 2005 12:35 pm

JunkMan wrote:I was thinking about making the pattern for the sides of my tear. Most of the things I have made in the past did not require a pattern, so I'm trying to figure out the best way to make one.

What if I made the pattern out of 3/4 particle board, then attached legs to the bottom, so I could also use it as my workbench. It would be the right shape to clamp everything down, and wouldn't move around when I was working on it. When looking at pictures of other peoples construction, it seems like clamping things (framing) down it might be a problem, when the work bench is rectangular, and the part you are building is sort of an oval (unless I screwed clamps to the bench like Steve does).

The question is, would it work as a work table and a pattern, or should the pattern be something seperate that I can flip over and move around (Could I make both sides with just one side of the pattern facing up)?

Sounds like I have a disciple!! :twisted:
If you're going to make a bench, I'd suggest a regular old bench. I've used a pair of horses with a couple of moveable tops.
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And, I'm currently using a dedicated bench, built to support the wall panels perfectly flat and square. Image
The benefit is, the ability to use the bench to layout, cut, assemble wall panels, even assemble the body, on a flat, square surface. And, I can "clamp" my work anywhere with screws.
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My method of construction relies on the use of the pattern throughout the build process. I take the pattern, and cut it to the requirements of the next step, and use it over-and-over, 'til it's used up! Each step "should" match up to the other steps, since they are all cut from the same reference points. I'll use that pattern to cut out doors, lay out the wall framing, cut panels, interior and outside. The pattern was used as a jig to fabricate the wall framing. I got this idea from Asian Flava. I just lay the frame out on the jig, to the layout lines, glue it together, and remove to make the next side. I did the frames for both 'Diners this way. Lay waxed paper under the frame unless you want it glued to the pattern!:oops:
I used the pattern, modified, to cut a ledge for the headliner to rest on, rather that install the ceiling from inside the cabin, I just lay it on that ledge!
To cut both sides at once, just place the two side panels, good sides,or exterior sides, together. Lay your pattern on top, clamp the stack together and cut out with a top-bearing pattern bit in your router. Make sure there are no voids or dips in the pattern, as these will show up in the finished panels. You can add the aluminum for the sides to the stack and cut everything at once. Just go slowly and use a good, carbide bit.
Since I'm building two copies of the Lil'Diner, the pattern has been well used! :thumbsup:
I'll shut up now!!:MLAS :MLAS
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Postby RAYVILLIAN » Wed Jan 12, 2005 12:53 pm

Steve

Well you have more than one disciple :D I'm useing your method too. Boy it is a learning curve when you've never done it. But I have the two side panels done for the rear hatch so far. Took me two days but I'm starting to get a little more comfortable with the tools now. I got most of the tools from my dad when he went in the resthome but have never used them this way before. I'll try to get some pics posted in my Yahoo gallery tonight.

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Postby asianflava » Wed Jan 12, 2005 4:56 pm

WOW! I got props from one of the seasoned builders! :D

How big is your shop? I had to do all my work on the floor because I couldn't dedicate that much room for a table. I did a lot of crawling on my hands and knees. I ended up getting kneepads for my knees but my hands hurt after awhile.
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Postby Steve Frederick » Wed Jan 12, 2005 5:28 pm

asianflava wrote:WOW! I got props from one of the seasoned builders! :D

Hey, that's a really great idea! If one was to build a Tear covered in aluminum or epoxy paint, he could just screw the framing right through the walls, rather than the pattern. Just fill the screw holes after the glue sets and they are removed.
asianflava wrote:How big is your shop? I had to do all my work on the floor because I couldn't dedicate that much room for a table. I did a lot of crawling on my hands and knees. I ended up getting kneepads for my knees but my hands hurt after awhile.

Well,,, :oops: It's supposed to be 1-1/2 stalls of the garage. Much to the dissmay of my daughter. I built the garage the summer before I started the Stripper. Emily was away at college, so, I took her place in the garage.
This year, I have the whole garage, now everyone is mad at me!! :cry: :cry:
Two tears...twice the space??? Huh??:roll: I'm already thinking that if I were to sell a Teardrop, I would put the money into an addition to the back of the garage..What a pipe dream!:?

I can work on two tables, one, is that 5' by 11' bench made for the 'Diner's. The other is a moveable bench on horses, the one in the first pic, in the earlier post. The Stripper occupies a corner of the shop. I don't like crawling..I've been in construction for 35 years, most of them kneeling or stooping. I have a technical job now, programming the systems that my installers, not me, put in! I don't want to regress!! Every work surface in the garage shop, and my boat shop in the cellar, is at a comfy work height.
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Postby mikeschn » Wed Jan 12, 2005 5:34 pm

I use dedicated benches for building tears too! It's the only way I can get a flat surface. So far I have $15 into this one... I will probably top it with OSB so that I can screw into it when I clamp the furring strips to the walls. (Yes I am going to plug the holes and paint it with epoxy paint again!)

I am building in a 1 car garage, and it's tight, but it works. The only other option would be to wait for summer... :( and that's not a valid option!!!

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Postby Steve Frederick » Wed Jan 12, 2005 5:39 pm

mikeschn wrote: (Yes I am going to plug the holes and paint it with epoxy paint again!)


Mike...

OOPS!! I thought that sounded familiar when I typed it!! :oops:
P.S. Isn't that miter saw a little low?? I wouldn't like working at that for very long.. :?
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Postby mikeschn » Thu Jan 13, 2005 5:50 pm

Ken A Hood wrote: The current profile I'm going with is approx. for a 5' x 11-12'.


I don't believe I've seen a photo of that profile yet... "Is that your final answer"?

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:lol: Mike...
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