Another Cubby door question

[Georgeandpat]

The plans call for the door frame to be covered with 1/2 inch L-molding with one side ripped to 1/4 inch, supposedly, to more easily bend a tight
radius. Well, I left the 1/2 inch as it was, annealed it, and beat the heck out of it with surprisingly good results. However, as I get ready to wrap the door itself with 3/4 inch T-molding I realize that it won't completely cover the L-molding on the door jamb and looks a bit odd. Has anyone else encountered this? Is 1" T-molding available? If so, will it make a 6" radius? Thanks, George.

[ssrjim]

The plans call for the door frame to be covered with 1/2 inch L-molding with one side ripped to 1/4 inch, supposedly, to more easily bend a tight
radius. Well, I left the 1/2 inch as it was, annealed it, and beat the heck out of it with surprisingly good results. However, as I get ready to wrap the door itself with 3/4 inch T-molding I realize that it won't completely cover the L-molding on the door jamb and looks a bit odd. Has anyone else encountered this? Is 1" T-molding available? If so, will it make a 6" radius? Thanks, George.

I did, the next one I will cut. Kevin needs to add to the plans that it is really so it won't show. You can see it in this link: http://homepage.mac.com/ramjim/PhotoAlbum28.html

[norm perkiss]

Georgeandpat,
I don't have direct experience with the door frame yet, but I've seen several pictures where a ribbon of thin gauge aluminum was layed down first, the width of the door jam. On top of this first course of aluminum, the alumunium angle or T-molding was attached. The gap between the inside and outside is covered in aluminum. I will probably do exactly the same on our doors
Norm.

[Georgeandpat]

Thanks Norm, and ssrjim- that is exactly what I'm talking about. Your picture says it all but your teardrop looks so good that it doesn't seem to be a big issue. How well does it seal? George.

[TonyCooper]

I'm just now approaching my skin install and I have obtained 1"x .75" T molding. I'll have to anneal it. I'll report my experience with it.

[Georgeandpat]

Thanks Tony, I'm anxious to hear how it goes. George.

[ssrjim]

Thanks Norm, and ssrjim- that is exactly what I'm talking about. Your picture says it all but your teardrop looks so good that it doesn't seem to be a big issue. How well does it seal? George.

It seems to seal fine. The first time out in Oct. was not done and I got very wet but I have the drip edge and seal in. It's going to the Grand Canyon next week and I'll see how it does.

[bdosborn]

It seems to seal fine. The first time out in Oct. was not done and I got very wet but I have the drip edge and seal in. It's going to the Grand Canyon next week and I'll see how it does.

Hey that's a nice trailer. I have the same 12v outlets that you have. If you peel the blue off the trim plate you'll have a nice silver finish. I really like your fender treatment. I was thinking of putting the T-molding on the inside of the door opening. Anybody else do that?
Bruce

[ssrjim]

It seems to seal fine. The first time out in Oct. was not done and I got very wet but I have the drip edge and seal in. It's going to the Grand Canyon next week and I'll see how it does.

Hey that's a nice trailer. I have the same 12v outlets that you have. If you peel the blue off the trim plate you'll have a nice silver finish. I really like your fender treatment. I was thinking of putting the T-molding on the inside of the door opening. Anybody else do that?
Bruce

I have 3, there is one for the DVD/TV that you can't see. Yes they are silver.

Since I was cheap and didn't buy better fenders that was what I could do to dress it up.

[Georgeandpat]

I trimmed 1 door with 3/4 inch T-mold this past weekend and was pretty satisfied with the results. I'll post a picture soon. The most important thing, I believe, is to get the gap between the door and frame as small as possible without rubbing during opening and closing. This will maximize the amount of "over-lapping" which should facilitate a good weather sealing. The cubby plans call for a 1/4 inch gap but I think that that might be a little too much. Anyone else here find that to be true?

[toypusher]

Don't forget that you need to trim the inside of the door and the inside of the door jam with your sheet aluminum (.032?). And then you put the angle trim on both the door and the jam (most use 1/8" aluminum) and that just about fills the gap of 1/4".

Hope this helps!

Kerry

[Georgeandpat]

toypusher, If I'm correct, the plans imply making the 1/4 inch gap after the edge trim and corner molding have already been installed on the door jamb. That would make the finished gap too big I think. I agree that a 1/4 inch gap before adding any edge trim or molding should make the final gap about right. George.

[toypusher]

George,

Another check of the plans confirms what you said about the door jam being wrapped first, at least that's how it looks. Sill if the door is then made 1/4" smaller and you put the trim on it, the gap will only be approx 1/8" and you still need to get a weather seal in there That should make the weather seal seal real tight. Just may opinion, as I haven't gotten to the doors yet. My windows and trim were ordered today and hopefully I will working on them soon.

Kerry

[James (tinbender)]

Well i just started on my cubbys doors and i made a small mistake on the first door.I switched to .040 metal and it's alitte thicker so watch out for this because you will have to make the gap alittle more than a 1/4"

[kuffelcreek]

The reason I made the gap 1/4" is because if the gap isn't big enough, you'll find out after all the trim is cut and installed on both the door and jamb opening. You'll go to shut the door, and it'll hit on the jamb, and after your initial "D'OH!" you'll realize you have to take everything apart, take the door off, and trim a little bit off before re-assembling it, trying to move the screws over 1/16".

On the prototype, the door has sealed fine, sitting out in the driveway four years now.

Kevin