What chemical/epoxy? to put on road side of floor...

[DasBaldGuy]

Sorry, I know this must be the millionth time someone has asked this, but what should I use to coat the underside of the floor (road facing) to seal the plywood?

I know I need

1) Some kind of epoxy/polyeurathane

and

2) Some kind of black/tar-like undercoating

Can someone recommend stuff to use that is readily available at Home Depot and/or Lowes?

I am at the floor portion of my build (photos of newly powdercoated frame will be posted to my buildthread)

thanks guys!

[absolutsnwbrdr]

well, I can't speak for the polyurethane, but I plan on using this black goo.

Every seems to speak highly of it.

[synaps3]

No epoxy is needed -- that's overkill. Even using an asphalt-based roof sealant (what most people use) is overkill.

I have a 30-year-old utility trailer that I bought from someone who had always stored it outside. The undercarriage has no coating, and the ply is holding up fine.

I don't want to risk it on my TTT, so I'm using Henry Asphalt Emulsion coating. They have it at Home Depot in the roofing section, about $15 a gallon. Read the cans until you find one that'll work.

[afreegreek]

the two things that will damage wood are high moisture content and the sun. since the bottom of the trailer is shielded from the sun it's not a problem and because it's open to the air it will dry out after getting soaked. only the parts that are in contact with the trailer frame will stay wet. so that is your only real problem area.

[planovet]

Sorry, I know this must be the millionth time someone has asked this, but what should I use to coat the underside of the floor (road facing) to seal the plywood?

I know I need

1) Some kind of epoxy/polyeurathane

and

2) Some kind of black/tar-like undercoating

Can someone recommend stuff to use that is readily available at Home Depot and/or Lowes?

I am at the floor portion of my build (photos of newly powdercoated frame will be posted to my buildthread)

thanks guys!

Not the millionth time but definitely in triple digits

If you are using the "black goo" (as I did), you don't need to epoxy beforehand. Some say it's overkill but many on this forum have used it and have had no problems. It's also cheap and easy and available at the big box stores. Just be sure to wear gloves and old clothes.

[Ageless]

30 years ago we weren't getting plywood from who knows where. With so much questionable content and questionable manufacturing; do you want to take that risk? I'd rather seal it up than have to tear it apart in a few years. That luan labelled 'water resistant' is a prime example.

[S. Heisley]

You can use both, if you want to. It may well be overkill, but it's your build and you can do what makes you feel the most comfortable. If you use epoxy, put it on first and then lightly sand it with some 100 grit sandpaper, before you top it with the black roofing goo. I used CPES because I know it is good; but, it costs a little more and others might work okay as well. Note: CPES needs a follow-up with some sort of UV protection, either black goo or paint.

[afreegreek]

30 years ago we weren't getting plywood from who knows where. With so much questionable content and questionable manufacturing; do you want to take that risk? I'd rather seal it up than have to tear it apart in a few years. That luan labelled 'water resistant' is a prime example.

the plywood products available now are generally superior to the stuff from 30 years ago assuming you're not getting it from Home Depot. going to a place like that and buying a sheet of cheap, low grade material suitable for a garden shed and expecting it to be anything other than garden shed material is wishful thinking at best.

[synaps3]

the plywood products available now are generally superior to the stuff from 30 years ago assuming you're not getting it from Home Depot.

I'm in full agreement here. I hear all sorts of comments about the plywood back in the good old days, but I've had great experiences with all the plywood I get -- even the crap from Home Depot.

I will admit they do have options for lower-grade stuff, such as the luan with a fiber core, but if you know what you're looking for, you avoid it and get the nice stuff.

[Senior Ninja]

For me it was three coats of varnish applied by brush. Special attention was given to the edges. Turned it over and did the same thing on the top. So far-so good. But then I love the smell of varnish in the morning. I grew up in the family paint factory on Chicago's South Side.
Steve

[wannabefree]

I put on a coat of epoxy and taped the seams. Then a coat of tar stuff in a spray can from the auto parts store. Actually 6 cans.

I agree the epoxy is not necessary, but it gave me some experience I wouldn't have had otherwise when I put epoxy on the walls and top. That alone was worth the extra cost and effort.

[Gage]

This is what works for me. And in my travels, my teardrop has gotten real wet and still no problems.

[Nosty]

I'm working on mine now and I put two coats of Kilz Premium, two coats of Valspar Porch and Deck paint and I bought a 5 gal. pail of Rubr-Coat #57 (rubber roof coating aka, black goo), at HD for $28 to add the icing on the cake, so to speak.

Hope that helps add to your confusion. I kinda refined all the information I've read on all the posts and congealed it into that cocktail.

[Gage]

I'm working on mine now and I put two coats of Kilz Premium, two coats of Valspar Porch and Deck paint and I bought a 5 gal. pail of Rubr-Coat #57 (rubber roof coating aka, black goo), at HD for $28 to add the icing on the cake, so to speak.
Hope that helps add to your confusion. I kinda refined all the information I've read on all the posts and congealed it into that cocktail.

Seems like a lot of over spending to me. Money that could be used else where. And every one complains about the cost to build a quality teardrop. But what do I know?

[mikeschn]

Black goo...

It's cheap... and it's insurance!!!

Mike...