Beware of little blue crimpy things

[parnold]

I had an issue with my trailer lights. The turn signals and brake lights were working, but no running lights. I followed what I thought was a very methodical plan to diagnose the problem.

1. I purchased a test plug with 4 l.e.d.'s. Every light lit up exactly as it should , brake, both turns, and stop.
2. I checked the voltage at the plug on the car. Everything as it should be.
3. I inspected all the wiring. Everything appeared as it should.
4. I bought a new converter (separate tail and turn signals).
5. I cursed quite a bit since that didn't solve the problem.
6. I checked the voltage with the car plugged into the trailer, and no 12v on the tail light circuit.
7. Now in desperation, I start cutting wires going to the four side markers, thinking maybe there is a short.
8. Still not working, so cursing got louder.
9. With the car plugged into the trailer, I had no voltage on the tail circuit, but unplug the trailer, and the voltage was there.
10. I took out the tail light assembly, and removed the blue crimp connector that I had to connect the wires, cut the insulation off and soldered the wire.
11. I danced for joy!!!!

It made enough of a connection to power the l.e.d. test light, and the voltmeter, but with the draw of the lights it wouldn't work. Now I have to replace the other two crimp things, and reconnect and solder my four running lights.

If you used those crimpy things, you may want to replace them when it's convenient, and not find out at the worst time that they have failed.

[Wimperdink]

I used to never have luck with those things until I started using them differently... Now when I use them.... (I mostly solder unless I'm feeling lazy) I will twist the wires together and stick both of them in the same end then crimp it then wrap it with tape. Haven't had an issue since doing it that way and its only 1 crimp per splice.

[parnold]

The ones I used are the kind that you can splice the end of one wire to a solid wire.

It's got a metal piece that you squeeze with a pair of pliers that is supposed to pierce the insulation on both wires, forming a connection.

[schaapveld4]

in my opinion those things are designed to fail, unless you tape, shrink wrap, or use an anti-corrosion paste on them.

-Matt

[CARS]

Even up here in the land of Minnesota Mining and Manufacturing (3M), we loath these "scotch lock" connectors. They are a cheap, quick fix for splicing 2 wires together and never meant to be an answer for permanent wire connections.

[GuitarPhotog]

Those crimp connectors are not designed for solid wire, they are intended for use with stranded wire, and they work well when crimped with a proper crimping tool.

The correct tool doesn't just crush the barrel of the connector, it punches a hole in one side, deforming the metal to hold the conductor. Using a pair of pliers or dikes is a sure recipe for failure.

It is important to size the connector properly to the wire, those blue butt connectors are sized for 22-18ga wire. Too large, or too small and they won't crimp properly.

Properly used they are as effective as solder, and much easier for a novice to get right.

All the wiring in the Tin Tent is made with crimp connectors of one type or another.



<Chas>

[gregp136]

I am a wire nut guy. Always have been.

Greg(and Laurie)

[CARS]

I think there is some confusion.

Scotchlok connectors are not barrel connectors. They don't require any insulation striping or crimping. You just place the 2 wires in the 2 channels and squeeze with pliers.

Here is a great picture:
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdet ... er=082-105

Barrel connectors and terminals that are crimped work very well when crimped properly like Chas pointed out.

[azmotoman]

I have seen high failure rates in these type connectors, too. If I find them on any vehicle that was previously owned and/or mutilated with them, my first chore (after an oil change) is to replace them with a suitable alternative using one of the following methods.

In order of most dependable to least:

1) soldered joints w/heat shrink tubing

2) environmental splices with heat shrink tubing

3) butt splices for the correct wire gauge w/heat shrink tubing

3) wire nuts w/electrical tape and ty-wraps (zip-ties)


Those blue, folding, crimp-type 'thingies' are the lazy man's way of ensuring it will all have to be done over again.

That said, they will work in a pinch and are designed for EXACTLY such a purpose. (i.e.: side-of-the-road repairs, side-of-the trail-repairs, just-enough-to-get-it-home-and-fix-it-right repairs.

If you MUST use them, after installation, reopen the cases and put a small dab of grease, Vaseline, dielectric compound or other suitable protection inside before you close them for extended use.

[Larwyn]

I ran wires professionally for quite a few years so I "know better than to use those self tapping Scotchlock wire taps". I have worked with several people who will tell you in no uncertain terms that those wire taps are worthless junk. There is no excuse for me to have one anywhere near one of my vehicles. But................

When I saw that the RV dealer who installed my 5th wheel hitch and 7 pin connector in the bed of my truck had used Scotchlocks to do so I was not happy about the discovery. But I was in a hurry to start using that new trailer so I just wrapped the connectors in 88 (electrical tape) and made sure I had anything I might need for wiring repairs on the road. I figured when I got around to it I would rip it all out and "do it right". Besides all the trailer lights and brakes were connected with Scotchlocks by the manufacturer as well, so it was more than just the truck that needed attention. That was about 11 years ago, the trailer has been sold but I still have the truck, and the 7 pin still functions flawlessly, and I never did get around to rewiring it. Actually I did have to re-lug the ground wire when the crimped on ring lug (not a Scotchlock) broke off at the screw securing it to the frame.

To sum it up, my opinion is that I would not install them where they might be exposed to road spray or snagging (under vehicles). My experience is that if they are already there, they seem to work just fine.

[parnold]

I wish I knew all this beforehand, but as my grandma used to say.. "Bought knowledge is best".

I have tossed all those evil blue things, and soldered every connection on the vehicle, and just have to crawl under the trailer to solder the four wires I cut. It's a little chilly tonight, so I'll wait to do the trailer until Saturday. Already excited for my next camping trip with my two sons next weekend! I haven't been able to go camping with the two of them in four years. My youngest, the chef, has been stocking the freezer with food. I'm gonna eat gooooood!!!

[Dale M.]

There is nothing wrong with Scotchlocks (while not my preferred connector) if you observe about three things.... 1> Have the correct size/type connector for wire size you use.... 2> Smother connector in dia-electric grease before inserting wires ( dia-electric grease will prevent corrosion in connector) 3> Be sure you use good pair of pliers and use care when crimping connector...

The actually worst connector in my book is the crimp style "butt" connector... most people who do wiring have not a clue how to do one properly...

The biggest headache I have when trouble shooting auto/trailer wiring system is somebody's "fix" using butt connectors... And changing wire colors in middle of run because they only had two short pieces of two different colors...

Dale

[86bigred]

i have repaired many of these scotchlock connectors,installed by professional rv shops.in my opinion these things are junk. the best connection is solder and heat shrink.i seen to many fail,most due to improper installation and shoddy work.be fore i became an rv tech i worked with my dad as an electrician for about 15 years.in the electrical trade we use marettes,butt connectors,different styles of crimp connectors,solder joints. not scotchlocks. you don't see these in homes,but used quite a bit in the rv industry. if used in side with no high draw,i feel they are acceptable.any wet environment i would not even consider it. even those blue butt connectors are bad in a wet environment without heat shrink, or the heat shrink style of butt connectors.like i said these are my opinions,so don't flame me.lol

[CARS]

like i said these are my opinions,so don't flame me.lol

Shouldn't be any flaming. Well, Slow seems to really disagree with every one that posted but....


Years ago a supplier gave me some heat shrink with solder in the center. I thought it was a great system till he told me the price