Custom Chassis For a 4x10x4 1/2

[DMcCam]

Howdy trailer experts, this is the layout for the frame as it is today. Built out of foamcore to the scale of 1"=1' approximately 13 feet long.



Your thoughts good people?

Dave

[synaps3]

Looks a lot like my frame:





Yours is 8.5" wider and 2' longer though. What thickness 2x2 stock will you be using?

The back middle strut is unnecessary -- it is just adding additional weight, unless you plan on double trailering.

What type of axle? If you're using a torsion, you don't need as many crossmembers as you have -- the axle will act as one as well.


Your design is so similar to the standard 4x8, why not just use a preexisting kit, add the tongue reinforcement, build over the wheels and off the front / back, and be finished for far less money?

[DMcCam]

Hi Dave, thanks for posting your images and lending me your ear. I have no idea what axle to buy. I do know I want it to be a good match to the size and weight, maybe somewhere around 2,000 lbs? I want to camp this guy until I can't camp no more. So I want it to be done right the first time, professional welding, good quality axle and parts, with really good bearings.

Do you have any recommendations?

Thanks, Dave

[synaps3]

Many users here have the same trailer as me with no problems in the long-run. You HAVE TO regrease the bearings the moment you buy it though.

I'm always skeptical of something like this that just "bolts together," so my TTT's subfloor is removable from the chassis below it. It will be a complete nightmare to refit to another trailer, but it is an option if it fails.

For something "done right" that will outlive you, you'll want to, like you said, have everything welded professionally. Many people here use Torsion axles on higher-end builds. The Dexter axles are popular, see here: http://www.tnttt.com/viewtopic.php?t=14125&start=0

Most importantly, go around the forum, read, and learn all you can before you build. My build plans have changed so many times due to the experiences of others' on this forum -- it's always best to learn from someone else's mistakes

[mikeschn]

Hi Dave, thanks for posting your images and lending me your ear. I have no idea what axle to buy. I do know I want it to be a good match to the size and weight, maybe somewhere around 2,000 lbs? I want to camp this guy until I can't camp no more. So I want it to be done right the first time, professional welding, good quality axle and parts, with really good bearings.

Do you have any recommendations?

Thanks, Dave

If you are doing a custom frame, get a flexiride axle. You'll love it.

http://www.southwestwheel.com/store/p-2 ... -axle.aspx

Mike...

P.S. Check out my flexiride build.
My trailer arrived about halfway down page two, here...
http://www.mikenchell.com/Weekender_Pho ... ndex2.html

[Rigsby]

Over here in England, the tendancy is to build your own frame rather than use a bought item, As i have now built over 20 cargo trailers of varying designs, i would personaly extend the two outer pieces of the tongue to nearer the axle. This way it will give more strength to the build and reduce any flexing, which is a potentional point of paint, varnish or even wood cracking
Similar to the way i built the chassis for my first tear

[dh]

I ordered a 2000lb axle kit from Northern tool for my utility trailer, no bells, whistles, or other crap. Just an axle, springs and hangers. I paid around $180 for it, and had to build the trailer 57" wide to accomodate the kit. I then paid over $200 for a break kit for said axle

I ordered a custom, 2000lb Dexter Axle (de-rated to 1500lbs), 62" frame width, 76" hub face to hub face, $150.25,

Same axle with 7" brakes, $249.41

Torsion axle does not always mean high price.

[DMcCam]

Hi Mike, that flexiride axle sounds great with less to build (all the kit for the springs etc.). I talked to Doug and he recommended a 3,500 lb 4" axle sprung for 1,500 lbs. So, is the 2,000 lb flexiride pretty much equivalent?

What about extending the angled pieces back to the tongue? It does look a lot stronger yet I have read time and again on this board, 'don't over build'.

Thanks for all the feedback gents, Dave

[danlott]

I would go with the 3500 lb axle derated. You will be able to add larger breaks, if desired, than you would be able to with the 2000 lb axle. Plus the spindle size is a little more common, thus parts easier to find.

Dan

[DMcCam]

Does anybody have cad or just plans for the flexiride? I'd like to add it to my working plans and to check for placement.

Thanks in advance, Dave

[Cliffmeister2000]

Those torsion axles use rubber to provide the "spring" as i understand it. How long does the rubber last, and is it service-able, or will the axle have to be replaced when the rubber gives out?

[synaps3]

From my understanding of rubber, it only degrades:
1. When exposed to excess strain (too much weight, extreme impacts)
2. When exposed to sun (UV rays) for extended periods of time
3. In extreme heat / extreme low humidity

Really, as long as you stay well within the weight rating of the axle, your torsion axle should hold out for the life of your trailer. As they age, the axles will become less effective and may eventually need replaced. This is me speaking from logic though -- perhaps someone more knowledgeable than I can chime in and speak from experience...

[Cliffmeister2000]

From my understanding of rubber, it only degrades:
1. When exposed to excess strain (too much weight, extreme impacts)
2. When exposed to sun (UV rays) for extended periods of time
3. In extreme heat / extreme low humidity
Really, as long as you stay well within the weight rating of the axle, your torsion axle should hold out for the life of your trailer. As they age, the axles will become less effective and may eventually need replaced. This is me speaking from logic though -- perhaps someone more knowledgeable than I can chime in and speak from experience...

Hmmm... Living here in Phoenix where motor mounts don't last 5 years, I'm guessing the extreme heat and low humidity is enough to keep me away from torsion axles...

[DMcCam]

Hmm, Reno is not much different than Phoenix; high heat in summer with very low humidity. Yet a ton of trailers use torsion axles including 'Little Guy' teardrops. I'm going to ask a local trailer company and get the scoop...

Dave

[aggie79]

Dave,

My trailer is very similar to yours except that I don't have the center tongue extension. My trailer just has the 50-degree a-frame tongue. There is a benefit to your tongue design in that a longer tongue is easier to back.

I realize that your model doesn't go to this level of detail, but you may want to have 2x2x1/4" angle tabs welded to the side rails and/or crossmembers to give you a place to fasten the shell to the frame and a place to bolt rear stabilizers/levelers.

Tom