Used Trailer Chassis

[sleepercatcher]

I've read with interest of several teardrop builds that have used the frames from old trailers. Are pop-up chassis any better or worse than regular trailer chassis? Any advice on what to look for and brands to look for as well as brands to avoid?

SC

[Alphacarina]

If you're buying a used camping trailer just to take it apart and use the frame to build a tear on, you're pretty limited to what you can buy for just a couple hundred dollars, because for just a little more than that, you can buy a brand new stripped down trailer frame

I picked up a 4 X 8 Harbor Freight 1740 pound rated trailer today for $255 - That was on sale for $300 and with a 15% off coupon

See what you can find used for less than that and check out the undercarriage on it and see if it looks suitable for what you want to build. I would think that a used frame from a pop-up camoer would be rated for much less than a 1740 pound payload, so it would have to be REALLY cheap before I would consider going that route

Don

[sdtripper2]

SC

Can we think about weight of the trailer?

If the trailer frame you find is light and not for a heavy weight trailer
you will be more pleased down the line. That is if you must use an old
trailer frame and not have one made or buy a light trailer frame.
When your done making a small TD or light trailer you should be able
to move it around by hand.

The axle and wheel base seems important for many and some like larger
tires instead of the small tires that some trailers come with.

There are many here that can talk to you about trailer frames and
construction. Many builders would tell you their next build would be lignt
weight. You can ignore weight this build and come full circle the next but
prudence will have you thinking weight for many reasons before your
decision is made.

[sleepercatcher]

I've looked at the HF trailers, I'd really like a 5 x 8 or even a 5x10 frame. From your comments I should be looking for something rated at least 1750lbs. I was just thinking that running gear taken from an existing trailer would be as easy to work with and if I can find one in someone's yard that they want moved, it would be cheaper.

Many of the entries in the forum I've read said they would go lighter, using 1/2 inch or 5/8 inch plywood instead of 3/4 inch and lightening other features. Any thoughts on the thickness of the plywood?


SC

[Sonetpro]

You might want to look at boat trailers. I used a boat trailer for mine. Lighter than a pop up trailer and they can be found pretty easily.
I used 1/2" for my sides but it is framed with 1/8" on the interior.

[Alphacarina]

I've looked at the HF trailers, I'd really like a 5 x 8 or even a 5x10 frame. From your comments I should be looking for something rated at least 1750lbs. I was just thinking that running gear taken from an existing trailer would be as easy to work with and if I can find one in someone's yard that they want moved, it would be cheaper

I wouldn't say that you necessarily need a heavy duty frame rated at 1740 pounds - Hopefully you can keep your build much lighter weight than that . . . . but keep in mind that any used camping trailer you buy will probably be lighter than the home made one you'll build on it, especially if it's your first build - Added weight can creep in on you from every direction and the factories which build most campers are real pro's at keeping the weight down, so starting with one of their frames and then building something heavier on it might not be a wise choice

It's not that hard to build a 5 by 8 or even a 5 by 10 camper on a 4 by 8 HF frame - As you've probably read, dozens of folks here have done that with really good results and the frame and running gear can certainly handle it

Alternatively, it's not necessarily more expensive to just have someone weld up a frame exactly as you would like and use the axle of your choice under it. Spending a little more for exactly the frame you need/want might turn out to be a real moneysaver in the long run . . . . it can get pretty expensive modifying something which isn't really suited to your needs

Don

[2old2tent]

Mine is being built on a pop-up because I had a pop-up.

The problem with any used trailer is the disassembly and reworking to get to the starting point. With a HF trailer an afternoon of wrench work should have you ready to go. I had to strip off and dispose of all the pop-up wood and canvas, rip off the floor and relocate a cross member to make mine ready to build on. You may have to rebuild the running gear to make it roadworthy.

With the HF trailer you can chose a design out of the Design library up top and someone here probably has addressed any issue that might come up. With a boat or pop-up frame you are kind of on your own as far as making the tear fit the trailer. Even though I borrowed Steve's Puffin profile there is little in common as far as framing the two TTT's.

My two cents is, if you have or can get some other frame for little or nothing, go for it. If you start talking $100 or more I would go with a new trailer.

[sleepercatcher]

One more thing, has anyone out there built a teardrop using a trailer made from a pickup truck frame cut to make a trailer?

[bledsoe3]

One more thing, has anyone out there built a teardrop using a trailer made from a pickup truck frame cut to make a trailer?

That would be heavy.

[JunkMan]

One more thing, has anyone out there built a teardrop using a trailer made from a pickup truck frame cut to make a trailer?

It would also be hard to build on because the frame rails are not straight, they arc up over the axel.

[bobhenry]

http://www.randysswchevy.com/1958_Truck/58_Chevy_Truck_inside_large.jpg

Only slightly about the thichness of a 2x4 .
I have a 65 ford p/u trailer ( after my daughter rearanged the front end ) and even with the stock steel bed I can roll it around on pavement by hand. The only drawback I see is by the time you clear the 15" tires you will need a step stool to enter a standard teardrop style. Maybe a rear entry tiny trailer would be a better option.

[angib]

OK, so we've got:
- rails not flat;
- rails very high.

And we need to add:
- P/U axle weighs a lot (not just making trailer heavy, but also giving very poor suspension);
- P/U rear springs (mostly) way too hard.

Give us a day or two and I'm sure we can come up with at least one good reason in favour of it..........

Andrew

[bobhenry]

Pro's for pick up frame.....

One good reason that 120 # rearend will help provide a low center of gravity for high speed cornering

Without motor and cab the payload should EASILY excede 2000#

[Alphacarina]

Pro's for pick up frame.....
Without motor and cab the payload should EASILY excede 2000#

Very handy for anyone wanting a 2000+ pound teardrop or mini trailer I guess

I can't think of a single 'pro' over a purpose built frame and a suitable torsion axle

Don

[Russ B]

Pickup bed/axle + tow bar + topper + mattress = instant TTT.