Are Dexter axles adjustable?

[WarPony]

I keep reading on Dexter's website about 22* up, 22* down, 0*......... Is there a way to adjust the start angle or do you tell them what you want and hope it's right?

Jeff

[halfdome, Danny]

I keep reading on Dexter's website about 22* up, 22* down, 0*......... Is there a way to adjust the start angle or do you tell them what you want and hope it's right?

Jeff

Jeff, every Dexter torsion axle is custom made to your specs and can't be adjusted later on. Grant Whipp is very knowledgeable in this but is hosting The Dam Gathering now. Mine has a 10 deg up to make it ride a little lower on 15" wheels and tires. Danny

[asianflava]

No, they aren't adjustable, you order them that way. I had no idea what to get so I split the difference and got the 22.5

[Ken A Hood]

Flexride are the only adjustable one's I know of. Since they're splined you can "fine tune" the ride once you've selected the start angle.

[WarPony]

How the heck do you determine which angle to go with? I imagine it has to do with wheel size, trailer height and the weight.

Jeff

[G-force]

Exactaly. Decide on the diameter wheel your going to use, decide how high you want the trailer above the ground, then go on Dexter web site and they have the measurments for their axles at different degrees. Its not perfect, but you should be able to get within an inch or so.

How the heck do you determine which angle to go with? I imagine it has to do with wheel size, trailer height and the weight.

Jeff

[cuyeda]

Then there are measurements for hub face distances, width of sidewall inclusions if you are covering the frame. I hope I get it right when the time comes to order an axle. My head is spinning. Good luck on yours!

[angib]

Larn Yessell Start Angles*

Plan A

Well, here's a guide to picking the right start angle, using Dexter axles - but others will be similar.

You need two measurements - the height of the tyre, SLR, and the dimension 'H', like in this diagram:



SLR is static loaded radius and comes from this chart (or here's the Dexter PDF)



Then you use this chart to find out the 'H' dimension from the 'Full Load' column with standard brackets - this is for the #9 axle but this Dexter Torflex PDF gives them all.


(Note that a negative H dimension has the spindle above the bottom of the frame)

Add the SLR and the H dimensions together and you get the ride height to the underside of your frame - remember to add the depth of the frame, the floor and any floor framing if you want to know the height to the top surface of the floor.

If you want to be fancy, you can add 1-2" to the ride height - this allows for the fact that you'll probably be using a lot less than the full capacity of the tyre (so it'll be less squished) and, hopefully, less than the maximum capacity of the axle too.

Let's have some builders chip in here with their recommended floor height - I would say 14-16" was ideal.

Plan B

The first time I wrote this stuff (two years ago), Grant provided his much simpler guide to picking start angles, so here it is:

Here's what I've found using Dexter's #9 side-mount axle, rated at 1,000# under a 750# trailer with 195/75R14 tires:
10º Up Starting Angle (my standard) - 12-13" ground-to-frame clearance.
22.5 Up - 10-11" clearance
0º - 14-15" clearance
10º Down - 16-17"
22.5º Down - 18-19"

Andrew

* This is how we say 'teach yourself start angles' where I live.....

[PaulC]

Thanks Andrew. I'm building a half scale TD to go behind my bike. Now I have all the info I need to figure it out

Leaf springs are looking good again

Cheers
Paul

[WarPony]

Okay, I get the "no load" dimension but what is the difference between "full load" and "shock load"?

Jeff

[asianflava]

Okay, I get the "no load" dimension but what is the difference between "full load" and "shock load"?

Jeff

"Full load" is how it sits fully loaded on a smooth road or not moving. "Shock load" is when it hits, say a pothole or a bump. Probably the maximum of movement the arm will have.

[angib]

Rocky is right - full load is the static position with the axle loaded to its maximum. I've amended the text accordingly.

Now for a homebuilt trailer, I would hope the actual weight was well under the axle's maximum, so it will settle less than 'Full Load' - that's what the 1-2" 'fiddle factor' at the end of the post is there for.

Andrew

[Arne]

I bought a torsion axle which has splined arms. I can change them to any angle I want.... the factory setting is fine for now, but after the tear is loaded, may want to move them a bit. The axle cost me $275 (axle plus shipping), but wanted the option of changing setting if I wanted to, so paid the extra to get it.

http://www.southwestwheel.com/store/c-26-torsion-axles.aspx

[halfdome, Danny]

Here's a copy of a PM between Grant & I for my 5' x 10' TD #2. I don't think Grant would mind me sharing this. Don't copy this word for word as you application my differ. Danny

Hi Grant,
I went to 6-Robblees in Tacoma today and we removed a wheel to do some measurements and it seems what they made for an order is probably correct, but I'll run it by you (the expert).

Axle: Model 9, Spindle standard, grease
Combination: single, hubface 73.50, outside of bracket 57.50
rubber capacity 1600

Arm Brackets: Arm 6, Start angle, 10 degrees up, Profile - high
Orientation: Standard orientation

Hardware: A/P-161-00 Top mount

Brakes: K23-047-00 LH Electric Size 7 x 1 1/4

Hubs: 008-257-05 Bolt circle 5 on 4.5 Capacity 2200 #/pair
H-D, 1/2 Studs, Grease

Wheels: Size 15 x 5JJ Capacity 1000 #/each Wheel offset: 0.50 Inset

Axle capacity (each axle) 1600 lbs (Excluding rims, wheels and tires)

G. A. W. R. (each axle) 1600 lbs. (Including rims, wheels, and tires)

Entire Running Gear 1600 lbs. (Including rims, wheels, and tires)

Since I am a two fingers typer, I got out the big guns......Jane typed this for me (and he better not forget it, either!!!!!! hi from Jane)
Thanks, Danny

Hi, Danny! Jane, too ... ...! (is Danny's arm in a sling again, Jane, or do you need to send this boy to typing classes ... ...? Like I'm one to talk ... ... that's me right there, all thumbs ...!)

Looks pretty good to me, Danny! A couple of concerns I have though, are:
1) assuming you are building a 5' wide tear again, did you specifically request that the trailing arms be no less than 61" apart?
2)Re: hardware/mount type ... are you planning to weld your axle to the frame, or do you have mounting plates that you will be bolting the axle to? I typically spec a "side mount" and get the mounting brackets that I weld to the frame, and then just bolt up the axle ... makes for much easier replacement if there's ever a problem.

Two more things to think about:
1) Wheels - see if you can find 15x6s with 1-1/2" inset (positive offset, puts the tire closer to the body) ... I like the beefier tire on heavier trailers.
2) Hubs - unless you are going for the baby-moon hubcaps on chrome steelys again, think about the EZ-Lube hubs ... just pull the rubber gromet out of the grease cap, affix grease gun, and pump a couple of good shots of grease into the hub every year ... no need to get your hands greasy re-packing the bearings!

Oh, yeah ... regarding the "Arm Brackets": I've got no clue what they're talking about when they say "Profile - high" and "Orientation: Standard orientation"! Not something I've ever run across ... ...

Anyway, anxious to see your new project! I'm going to try to make it to the NW Spring Fling in Morton this May ... will you have it done by then and there?

Good Luck with it all, and as always ...

CHEERS!

Grant

[WarPony]

Well, this has been very informative for me. I assumed that these things were in a "no load" position all the time until you hit a bump and then the arm would move but it seems it settles as weight is put on them.

Alright, I hate to be a PITA about this but is there a weight that you shoot for that is in the range of the axle? The #9 is 1000-2200 lb. capacity, is it better to be in the lower to middle of the range?

Jeff