Building my first tear.

[Otiica]

Hello to all out there. It's time to start the build and definitely time to start asking questions.

I've already purchased the model 94564 4x8 trailer from HF. The first question I have is regarding the length. I'm fairly tall AND would like to have plenty of room in the galley. Is it feasible to extend the floor past the trailer frame 4, 6 or even 12" in the rear? I plan on using a 2x2 frame with either 1/2 or 3/4 ply as the base for the floor.

I can't quite figure out the profile I want to use but I had hoped to base it roughly off the "golden spiral". Some quick figuring tonight on sketchup led to this:

I realize that the height is very untraditional. Can you all comment on what advantages but mainly disadvantages such a profile would afford me? I had planned on skinning in Al so right off the bat I know there will likely be issues there. For the wood underneath I feel comfortable that splicing ply together (with splines) would be a reasonable option. So, please comment on the Al issue but I'm more looking for other issues I may not have thought about. Having never actually seen a teardrop in person, much less build one, I'm sure there are plenty of considerations that I can't even imagine yet.

If the height of the profile is too much of an issue I plan on just cutting off the bottom to reach the standard 4' height....or closer to it at least. I do want the walls to cover the trailer frame but still maintain roughly 48" from the deck to the roof...so maybe an overall height of 53".

I did work as a finish carpenter and cabinet builder for about 8 years so I feel reasonably qualified for the wood aspect of this project. Right now my biggest concerns are the electrical (which should be no problem after a few dozen more hours of reading/planning), building the hatch (the curved hatch body isn't the issue as much as figuring out exactly how it mounts and seals to the body...I'm still a little unclear on some aspects on that), and just overall making sure I choose the right materials.

I realize this is getting long but permit me two more quick questions. These are the doors I had thought of using. http://tiny.cc/JT2Pc Anyone have any experience with them and would like to comment? Would I be much better off buying windows and making my own doors?

Also, in regard to plywood. I understand that CPES is recommended but I haven't seen any clear answers as to which plywood to use and where cpes is and isn't needed. Do I need an exterior grade ply or is any cabinet grade ply going to be ok as long as I treat with CPES?

That's it for now. Thanks in advance to all....I've been hanging around long enough to know that I'll get plenty of helpful answers.

-Nick in SW Idaho

[bobhenry]

Chubby is 120" long and 5'7 wide by 61" tall .....

That 61" covers the frame and sub floor with about 1 1/2" as an apron below the frame using up approx 5" total. I also lose 9" to the mattress. So effective head height mattress to roof is 47" If I had an inside skin it would become 45" Setting upright on the mattress I can not reach the grab bar I have installed on the ceiling spars without a little bounce.

There are good points and bad points about this height. I installed all my electrical setting in a camp chair inside the tear with more than ample headroom. A draw back is cold weather camping (zero to +30) the heat at the bed might be 40 and at the roof it can be 90+. You have to press a fan into service to keep the stratafied air moving. Also the bigger the cube the more heat ( or cool) it will take to get comfortable.



My 4x8 HF frame was badly bent when I purchased it for $75.00 so I pressed a dock handrail into service to replace it and just used the axle assembly and the tongue.
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Here is the profile I think it looks fat Hence " Chubby"
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Galley is only 2' deep but quite adequate I left the 2x4 framed galley wall open for a pantry that closes with the flip up counter.



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Here is the grab bar inside great for a steadying help moving in the trailer or just a place for hanging clothes in transit.



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The HF tongue in my opinion is a bit weak (and a bit short) for the 1100 to 1200 pounds you are planning. Here is a good method to reinforce it . (thanks Harvey)
I would recommend you do it very early in your build.



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As to cantelivering the body Here is a shot of 2' hanging in mid air. Look closely at the front of the Barn



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The good thing is there is no wrong way to build a tear just do it your way. With your building skills you will have few problems and remember all you have to do is ask and 8000+ folks will give you a parcel of answers to select from.

Bob Henry

[parnold]

My planned build will also have the "box" hanging over the frame in all four directions. From what I've seen, as long as it is solid, there is not an issue with this.

If you search, you will find many explanations of what to do with the CPES. From what I've read.. most critical are the ends of boards, and require 4 to 5 applications, the surfaces of wood, require 2 to 3 applications. You want to prevent any moisture from being able to penetrate the wood as wood+moisture=BAD.

I've looked at that door myself, it looks awesome, and if your budget allows by all means go for it. I opted to purchase much less expensive "cargo" doors since my build is speed+cheap=what I want.

Good luck, and post plenty of pictures!!!