Don & Karen's 6 x 12 Deep Vee Front CT

[MtnDon]

yet another ceiling insulation panel...



... with a bunch of bracing till the glue sets.


And the water heater, 6 gallon Suburban, because it fits between the wall ribs with no modifications unlike the Atwood that is wider than the wall rib bays.

[OverTheTopCargoTrailer]

With the superior insulation job you're doing, you will be able to cool it with an ice cube and heat with a candle. Mighty fine.

GoneFishing ....... Don't be stealing my patented phrase .......BYT .....
I'm seeing MtnDon install 1" in the walls,
I have 3" Dow blue board in my walls , 2.5" on the floor and 4" in the ceiling , doors 1.5" & I still can't heat with a candle
or cool with an ice cube


MtnDon

What exactly is all that glue in the ceiling about ??
I can't do that as chemical smell would kill me I assume

Jerry

[MtnDon]

1. Our wall insulation is not cpmpleted yet. The 1" in the bays is stage 1. (1" polyiso = R 6.5) Stage two for the walls begins with the re-installation of the 3/8" plywood. The 3/8" plywood is structural according to the manufacturer. As such it should be installed directly against the ribs. After that 2" (R13) of polyiso will be glued to the plywood. Something like 1/8" or 1/4" plywood, FRP or whatever will be glued to that to finish.

Note on the 3/8" plywood. I am fortunate in having real screws and not those nail things, so I am also lucky in not having damaged sheets to work with. I am using the same self drilling screws that I removed but making new holes. One reason is that the factory installers overtightened many of the fasteners, crushing the plywood. That weakens the plywood. I am being careful to not turn the screw in below the surface. Another reason is that removing and reusing the self drilling screw causes a small amount of redrilling the steel threads formed with the first installation. I'm probably nitpicking over that, but since the plywood will be covered the holes left do not matter.

2. Roof / ceiling. The second layer of polyiso is cut to a snug fit between the walls. Once test fitted the panel is removed. Then polyurethane glue is applied along with a spritz of water to get it activated. The foam sheet is pressed into place and propped in place till cured. Once cured the polyiso foam insulation fails before the glue line breaks. I don't like polyurethane glue for wood work as there the glue line is weaker than the wood. However here the glue will be only holding the weight of the polyiso. Gluing also means there are no metal fasteners between the interior air space and the framing steel.

Some areas of the roof will have up to 3 or 4 inches of polyiso added, some won't. Hopefully it will appear to be a pleasing sculptured effect. The greater thicknesses will be in places we will not stand; over the bed, the counter, the sink, the fridge...

3. No odors I can detect from polyurethane glue. Once cured there should be no residual fumes for even the sensitive. But you should check on that with a test if you have issues with chemicals.

4. Polyurethane adhesive is one of the few that can be used when both surfaces are non porous; foil face to foil face. Most other adhesives / glues require at least one surface to be porous. When I glue the polyiso to the plywood I may use something else... one of the tubed construction adhesives perhaps. But I haven't decided yet.

[OverTheTopCargoTrailer]

MtnDon

4. Polyurethane adhesive is one of the few that can be used when both surfaces are non porous; foil face to foil face. Most other adhesives / glues require at least one surface to be porous. When I glue the polyiso to the plywood I may use something else... one of the tubed construction adhesives perhaps. But I haven't decided yet.

While your plan is generally EXCELENT ...... I don't think you can hold everything together with glue. if you can peel the foil from the foam - then that will be the weak link. I would say install the final 1/4" or 3/8" with screws into the plywood covering the metal studs. I tried the metal tape over the metal studs and it just pealed the paint off the studs & left the bare studs when it got hot to rust faster On OTTCT v1.0 somehow the glue in the tape dissolves the paint ? On the ceiling the iso foam may sag over time, I would recommend some screws with washers to hold it up every 18" or so, there is a special washer sold for installing Schleuter foam boards that works perfect and is shaped to sit flush 100 are $10 a box.
Also with 2 people inside you will need to run the fan almost 24/7 when your inside & it's over 45 deg as you will pick up 35-50 deg in that small space. Recall I pick up 35 deg in my 7 x 18 by myself.
You will be set for Alaska camping ...... I'm gonna come & do a side by side test one day - when it's cold like you say

[MtnDon]

I did not go into the entire plan. I have a few hundred nylon washer things (forget their true name) left from when I bought a box of 2500 for foaming house walls. Slightly beveled when installed they end up flush when the screw is tightened just right. The self drilling screws I have will fit them. The multi layer ceiling polyiso plan is to use some of them and also to use some furring strips in a couple spots as thermal breaks for fasteners. Those will be covered over with the last foam layer with a few screws into the wood. It will all be revealed a layer at a time. Sort of the opposite of peeling an onion a layer at a time.

[lrrowe]

Don, I see why you got the added (6.5') height took the interior width over the the tires. You really leave yourself with good interior space so as to be able to use such thickness with your insulation. If I were to follow these examples (along with others who have added considerable foam), then I will not regret getting the added 6 inches in ceiling height and a 7' (80 inches interior) width versus a 6' box.

Keep you pictures coming. They are great.

Bob

[MtnDon]

Nylon "washers" like these for affixing foam with screws.

Available with & w/o screws ... different screws for wood or metal studs

https://www.warehousebay.com/catalog/fasteners-eifs-stucco/

[OverTheTopCargoTrailer]

MtnDon

Here is what I used, you can really torq these dowd


http://ecomfort.com/kerdi-board-zt-washers-for-installation-of-kerdi-board-panels-1-1-4-quantity-100-24688.html

[bc toys]

what ya'll using those washers for

[MtnDon]

The nylon ones were designed specifically for securing sheet foam insulation to framing on buildings. Usually on the exterior. If used correctly the foam sheets will not blow off. There are some that are specifically made for attaching stucco wire to foam as well.

I will be using some inside the CT to secure the foam to the ribs or the plywood that comes inside all metal ribbed CT's. Or to furring strips attached horizontally to the vertical ribs. Or to ceiling.

Hope that helps clarify that. The metal ones were desihned for a different purpose but in a CT with interior foam sheets they do pretty much like the nylon.

[OverTheTopCargoTrailer]

The nylon ones were designed specifically for securing sheet foam insulation to framing on buildings.

Hope that helps clarify that. The metal ones were desihned for a different purpose but in a CT with interior foam sheets they do pretty much like the nylon.

Beg to differ Oh Great & Wise MtnDon

The metal ones are designed for the exact 100% same use, to attach 1/4" to 4" thick foam board to the interior or exterior.
I like them better as plastic can break over time, when torqued to much or when exposed to light they get brittle etc
The metal ones are from Germany
At $10 -$13 for 100 well worth the MONEY !!

[MtnDon]

I thought the Kerdi Board was a harder foam with different harder surfaces than our EPS, XPS or Polyiso foam. The nylon ones can tear heck out of those three foams if the screws are tightened too much.

Anyhow color me incorrectly informed.

Never had any issues with the nylon though.

[OverTheTopCargoTrailer]

Actually the Kerdi foam is very soft & very expensive $50 for a 3 x 5' at 1/2"
I guess you pay for the orange cloth on both sidesthat holders the tiles.


I used on my first trailer to make a light weight glass tile shower.

[OverTheTopCargoTrailer]

Hey MtnDon

Thought you would almost be done by now ......
I getting my new cabinet, lights , Maginum , wig wags & LEDs slowly installed
Got the trailer lights - 12 circuits all wired into the cabinet.

QESTION ... On the Maginum remote can you just use a plan phone cable -
Or computer cable
Not the 50' they give you ?

Thanks Jerry

[MtnDon]

Maybe I'll be more or less done by the end of March. I had to move a hinge on a rear door to place the A/C where I wanted it to go. That involved a partial rear door rebuild as the door is basically hollow the way it comes. Then I did the other door so the hinges would match. Plus framed it for a window I might get.

I keep wandering off to the mountains just to be sure they are still there and losing trailer build time. No snow to speak of so it's a real treat to be able to drive up to the cabin instead of snowshoeing. This promises to be a bad fire year if the weather doesn't dump some serious snow.

I believe Magnum uses 4 conductor twisted pair cable, not the garden variety flat parallel conductor wires common to wired phones. But it's been a while since I looked. Cat 5 would be good stuff. Probably better to do that instead of running it around and around the trailer.