7'*18' V-Nose Cargo Trailer Toy Hauler Conversion

[hankaye]

flboy, Howdy;

If, your ceiling rafters are spaced the same as your wall studs I remember the guy I worked with when I ordered
mine told me they (factory), do all the measuring from the back to the front. So every 16 or 24 inches should get
you into one. Got any of your old sketches handy???

hank

[flboy]

flboy, Howdy;

If, your ceiling rafters are spaced the same as your wall studs I remember the guy I worked with when I ordered
mine told me they (factory), do all the measuring from the back to the front. So every 16 or 24 inches should get
you into one. Got any of your old sketches handy???

hank

I think I'll be able to do that once I locate two beams. One of my panel in the back will be easy to drop. I'll just do that if I cannot get access to a good stud-finder. I am hoping by brother has a good one I can borrow for a few hours. The one I have is a very old Stanley model.. It does not work too well to start with.

[KCStudly]

Sometimes you just have to sit and think.

... beer in hand.

It's what I call, "a mental laxative".

[flboy]

It's what I call, "a mental laxative".

That just doesn't sound good!

[Ol' D]

Flboy, I've been watching your build, very nice, I'm wondering if you could use a magnet on the outside of the roof to find your rafters. If the roof is aluminum you might be able feel the rafters.

Dan

[flboy]

Flboy, I've been watching your build, very nice, I'm wondering if you could use a magnet on the outside of the roof to find your rafters. If the roof is aluminum you might be able feel the rafters.

Dan

That's a good idea to try. I actually have a strong magnet to give that a try. Thanks Dan !

[flboy]

I am starting to do some of the plumbing. I was struggling for room to connect the pump and accumulator tank in the same area because of the connections, so I built a little stand to stack them. This seems like it is going to work well. Once I have all the other piping and valve set, I will fasten it to the floor.

[lrrowe]

I am curious as to why you need the accumulator tank. I have a pressure pump w/o such a tank and have noticed the need for it.

[flboy]

I am curious as to why you need the accumulator tank. I have a pressure pump w/o such a tank and have noticed the need for it.

It could be that I wouldn't need one, but it should dampen water pressure spikes and reduce pump cycling. My concern is that when I trickle water from the faucet or low flow the shower when boon docking, that I may get rapid pump cycling which is hard on everything. This should eliminate that possibility and it was cheap enough and easy enough to install during the build, I decided to do it.

[lrrowe]

When I turn my pump on by opening the facuets it runs uninterrupted until I shut the water off. Would an accumulator allow for water flow without the pump until pressure reaches a minimum? That would be quieter for sure as mine is noisy. We take Navy type showers, shutting the facuets off while lathering up.

[flboy]

When I turn my pump on by opening the facuets it runs uninterrupted until I shut the water off. Would an accumulator allow for water flow without the pump until pressure reaches a minimum? That would be quieter for sure as mine is noisy. We take Navy type showers, shutting the facuets off while lathering up.

It will let the water flow before the pump turns on; however, the accumulator is only 20 ounces , so not much.

[flboy]

I got a lot done this weekend, but not a lot to show. I got all the windows done with the trim rings in, all the pex water lines are in and mostly connected up, all the LP connections are in, the stove is mounted with the backer board in, and I solved the problem I was having on how to connect all the drain lines up under the bathroom sink and into a single line to the Gray water tank below. (I'll take some pics of that when I am finished. It will be unique, but will work great I hope.)

Basically, I am all set to start the kitchen framework and the booth seating area. All the infrastructure is in that needed to be there first. You can see the other-side 30 fresh water tank setting in position. I need to build that partially under the booth seat similar to the way I built the other partially under the cabinet. I will connect it up to the other tank with a line under the floor that will go down and come up on the other side. Just waiting for that line to connect of the water system and give it a pressure test. That section of flooring will be the first to insulate this winter. The water line will need to be protected from freezing (not much to worry about in Florida... but I do plan to go other places too.






Just need to run the FW line from the other side tank and connect the fill line, and it will be ready to test.

[hankaye]

flboy, Howdy;

Don, ya got a LOT done! Looks good too.

hank

[flboy]

Thanks Hank!

Not much time after work today so I picked an easy task as I try to get something done every day even if it is a small task. One task closer !

I finished connecting up the 110VAC circuits. I am going to connect the DC Converter and finish the DC circuits up this week also. All that will remain on the electrical then is to buy the 3 12VDC Deep cycle batteries and hook up the Solar Cells to the charging system and the 1500W Pure Sine Wave Inverter.


This is a pic of the 110VAC system. The top breaker box is a 20A Main that has a 15A directly to the Air Conditioner and to an outlet for the 12VDC Converter/Charger. The main also feeds the transfer Automatic Transfer Switch that automatically transfers from the 1500W Pure Sine inverter to the line in (shore power or generator) when it senses power come online. The lower box is fed from the Transfer switch and runs all the other AC outlets and the Refrigerator.

I have to get my batteries installed before I can test the inverter.

[hankaye]

flboy, Howdy;

Now ya went an did it ..... all of them wires, All the same, tight space, ... given me a major
bad, bad, bad headache just lookin' at it. Wiring is something I have absolutely zero concept about.

hank