HALLMARK 6X12 CONVERSION

[Tommy B]

Look at this. Pulls down like a shade but you can push it aside to open. Maybe good for the side door. if only it was 68-69 inches wide it would be perfect for the back. $23.00 amazon. Instant Screen Door

[flboy]

You got it real bad!! LOL :-) Call your addiction hot line now!

Sent from my SM-N900P using Tapatalk

[Tommy B]

ok lastly as I have enough ideas to work with, I found these guys that can custom make something nice. Track/hook rail across ceiling so just slide to the left and enter. Push all the way to left to store. Never take down. Velcro sides. I will see what they can do for the $$. Need an opening of some sort.

That's it. Will follow up on all this if I pursue it. Cost will dictate.

AHHHH, I got my fix now. I'm better now.

[Id10t]

Ok, back to work. Want to do this next. Any body do this yet?

Velcro. Inside mount.

Where can I get something like this? Any Ideas on how to fabricate? Cannibalize an old tent perhaps?

Also need light weight stands to hold ramp level but wont dent door.

Total enclosure is cool but too many poles and parts??

Thanks.

http://www.easternmarine.com/aluminum-stabilizing-jack-stands-2-pack-44561

http://www.etrailer.com/Enclosed-Trailer-Parts/Redline/385800.html

Put a rubber drag puck in each corner and the center pin on the jacks fit inside of it.

[Id10t]

ok lastly as I have enough ideas to work with, I found these guys that can custom make something nice. Track/hook rail across ceiling so just slide to the left and enter. Push all the way to left to store. Never take down. Velcro sides. I will see what they can do for the $$. Need an opening of some sort.

That's it. Will follow up on all this if I pursue it. Cost will dictate.

AHHHH, I got my fix now. I'm better now.

Have Fun. These folks have everything you need and the frame parts are cheap. We did several shelters for my sons high school band with these folks because popups and parents do not mix

https://creativeshelters.com/

[McDave]

Hey Tommy,
You can use a couple of pieces of chain to hold the ramp level where you want it. Or, rods cut to proper length hung from ramp frame, then out to mid point of ramp on each edge. Should only have to set up rods/ chains once so its level with floor, after that if floor is level so is ramp. And, I have some super secret plans for a screen room attachment, just not ready to fab the prototype yet. See, I'm thinkin' everybody will want one, so why not make a buck or two hundredthousand/per annum? You, Me, Don and Hank put our heads together, and I'll bet we can't get a thing done! You can't work like that! But if we was to co- operate, well then we'ed have somthin'. Probably better get that Martin kid too. He's pretty handy. That's all I'm sayin' for now. Keep that on the DL, you never know who is listening....

McDave

[Tommy B]

Mcdave, at least we can get together now, here, on this forum. Its really been a great help. Need a big shop/warehouse in the mountains some where. We can crank out these rolling tub and toilets with optional fold down bed, kitchenette, and garage all year long!

Hey I like this material. Thanks Idiot. I think I will call you ID.

6X10 Green Sun Shade Screen Mesh $24.60

[Tommy B]

Questions
When you look at commercial toy haulers, there ramp cable/chains seem to be out side the trailer. How do they do that as the ramp door is heavy.

My ramp cables are screwing up every idea I come up with. If you could find a way to get them to the out side of the trailer like a toy hauler it would open up many possibilities but I just don't see it.

The ramp is too heavy to not have those cables as is. I think I may drop it and hurt myself or some one else.

May have to let this go. I see FUBAR potential here.

[Id10t]

Questions
When you look at commercial toy haulers, there ramp cable/chains seem to be out side the trailer. How do they do that as the ramp door is heavy.

My ramp cables are screwing up every idea I come up with. If you could find a way to get them to the out side of the trailer like a toy hauler it would open up many possibilities but I just don't see it.

The ramp is too heavy to not have those cables as is. I think I may drop it and hurt myself or some one else.

May have to let this go. I see FUBAR potential here.

There are spring assist that are part of the hinges at the bottom of the door. They work as well if not better than the cables. The big issue is getting the springs right so your door goes all the way down yet are still stiff enough to assist on raising the door. I like the lower spring system a lot better.

[Tommy B]

AHAA,

Thanks ID!
WOW. I see. That's the only way I will proceed with this. Must check out cost on this.

[McDave]

Hey Tommy,
I don't think the ramp issue is I really all that complicated, unless I'm missing something
What is the goal ? To hold the ramp at a level horizontal position to be used as a deck. Easy. If that cable is making you mad, get rid of it. It helps some, going up and down as it takes some weight off, but you could use it to help going down, to the deck position attach chains or rods, LOCK THE SPRING AND CABLE IN PLACE, then remove the cable from ramp with a hitch pin. Go look at your pickup tailgate for inspiration. Same goal, hold gate level with bed. Simple, unless I'm missing something?

McDave

[Tommy B]

Mcdave, My first goal is to be able to cover completely the rear entrance. Seal it off with mesh. Imagine those cables gone. Regardless of the deck level at this point. Ideally I would just have it like a shower curtain only one side will be velcroed to the wall. a magnetic or zipper walk through opening would be nice. But what in this commercial toy hauler pic.

[Tommy B]

Yes I would like to remove this assembly. 2x4 across the top from side to side if I go track. Or a big wooden curtain rod like I am using in my so called closet.

I don't mean to beat this to death but it seems very logical to open the back up for ventilation and view and also to enter and exit when hanging out while keeping the flies and mosquitos out too. But this may have to wait till next year till I can do it right.

very easy to walk up that ramp versus the side entry. Bad knees. Also I have nearly gone head over heals tripping over those freakin cables.

Thanks.

[hankaye]

Tommy B. Howdy;

Best suggestion I can think of is to go to an RV repair place and have a good conversation
with the mechanics there. They can give you some ideas and perhaps they may have already
done something similar. They would have information about ordering the springs you'd need
based on the actual weight of the door and all that good stuff... or maybe even talk to the
manufacturer about your idea and ask their opinion they may have done it before with either
good or bad results. Wouldn't hurt to ask...
Personally I think you may be on to something

hank

[Tommy B]

Hank, Thanks for the encouragement.

This is a must do for me. Just like the side door upgrade. Once done I will level that deck per Mcdaves chains as I have seen that some where. After that many ideas are possible.

Also I took a good look at my set up down by the existing hinges. Very possible. Pins, nipples and torsion springs. Will have to contact a local welder but I think this is very doable for I'm estimating 100 bucks in hardware plus the welder fee.