6x12 RC Workshop/Cargo Trailer Build

[lrrowe]

Option 3 it is.

[orcadigital]

Option 3 it is.

LOL heck of an idea!

I am 99% right now on picking up some of the side vents someone posted here earlier and just removing the top vent. Will make everything fit (tight but fit) and seems to be the least amount of fuss and expense.

Very little progress over the weekend, spent some time at the track (first time in almost 2 months) and it showed with some very inconsistent driving. I did get the last cabinet door drilled and mounted, and spent some time thinking about the order of certain things happening. I want to wire in the panel with the DC switches, but I need to cut the 1/4 ply that it mounts into, which I can't do until I get the 4x8 sheet up on the right wall and cut down the remainder for the rest to see what I have left. I can't do that till I get the insulation in, which I cannot do till I rework the mounting for the side door bar/latch, which I cannot do till I put in the door lock/handle...etc etc. It's amazing sometimes how the one little thing I am motivated to do, involves a dozen hours of big things before I can start it.

[lrrowe]

You are still way ahead of me. Keep the good work going.

[OverTheTopCargoTrailer]

Option 3 it is.

I want to wire in the panel with the DC switches, but I need to cut the 1/4 ply that it mounts into, which I can't do until I get the 4x8 sheet up on the right wall and cut down the remainder for the rest to see what I have left. I can't do that till I get the insulation in, which I cannot do till I rework the mounting for the side door bar/latch, which I cannot do till I put in the door lock/handle...etc etc. It's amazing sometimes how the one little thing I am motivated to do, involves a dozen hours of big things before I can start it.

This is exactly my problem too, I want to do this - but I can't do it until I do that , which means I also need to do this , but don't wanna do that , but before any of that I need to go to the store to buy this or that and at the end of the day you only wanna do this , but feel guilty because I didn't do squat so mostly I just spent all day doing this .

[lrrowe]

Ditto!

[orcadigital]

LOL at least I was not the only one then! I did do a little work on the DC wiring (soldered some ends to connect the main wiring to the left bank of LED overhead lights). I then decided to go with 2 more outdoor lights, another on the right side but near the rear, and one on the rear over the ramp. Mostly to assist in loading things up in the early morning or late at night. Those should hopefully arrive by the end of the week, and then my excuses for not finishing the right wall are over.

[orcadigital]

No pictures from the weekend as most of the work is not really visible. I did get the handles installed on the front cabinets and aligned the doors so everything has consistent gaps and is even. I installed 2 more outdoor lights, one on the right side near the back (to match the one near the side door) and one on the rear over the ramp door. I ran the additional wiring and soldered/heat shrunk all of the connections. I still need to finish a few more connections, including the remaining 2 LED lights that I hung on the right side, and then finish wiring it all in to the switch panel in the front. I also picked up some speaker outlets (4mm banana sockets) that will be used for DC power for battery chargers. I need to work out a way to insulate the outside housings (since I will be running live 12v power and would prefer not blowing fuses due to accidents), but i think it will work out.

I also found a small leak in the roof near the front where the rounded FRP corner meets the roof itself. Cleaned everything off, and sprayed both sides with heavy coats of the leak sealant spray stuff. I think it was due to the expansion/contration of the metal roof sitting in the sun each day. Other then that, it seems to be sealed up pretty tight, even with the additional holes I have put in it. Will get some more pictures up once I get something visible done. Pictures of solder and heat shrink are not very exciting.

[orcadigital]

So finally some progress over the weekend before the rains came in. Saturday with the help of a friend, took the plunge and got the RV door latch installed. The only real difficulties were making the hole big enough to angle the actual lock in, and cutting the spacer between the door and the inner handle. It looks square from the outside, but actually has a lot of intricate cuts behind it to fit the screw holes and not interfere with the mechanism behind it. Pleased with how it turned out and the functionality (smooth closing, no binding, etc).

Pictures of course!

[orcadigital]

Sunday progress seemed a little more noticable. Finished the in wall DC wiring on the right wall (still have to connect some things between the sides and the main runs running foward), and removed the side door lock bar. I needed to be able to get the remaining old interior luan out from behind the bolts, which involved 2 coming out instantly, and 2 requiring 30 minutes of dremeling and some choice words. I ended up replacing all of the bolts when I put up the new plywood on the inside. I did get the rest of the plywood up on the right wall (the picture looks a little funny, there is a 4x8 sheet on the bottom and a 1x8 strip at the top. What looks like a third segment on the bottom is just my remaining plywood for between the front cabinets. I also got the remainder insulation I had on the ceiling, and looks like I will need another sheet or 2 to finish up (which I expected).

I also got my replacement switch for my DC panel in the mail yesterday (panel has 4 switches, and 1 was momentary, so ordered a replacement that is just an on-off), and hope to get that installed this coming weekend and finish up the DC wiring, along with the backsplash area. It is slowly getting to the usable stage, but still trying to work out how to do the work benches.

[revorunner]

Hi Orcadigital, Excellent job on the lock install. Awesome pics!! Like they say a picture is worth a thousand words.

[nitro_mt_racer]

Are you thinking standing or sitting height workbenches? Are you also planning to make them removable like mine or fixed?

[AZ_Desert_Rat]

Hi Orcadigital,
The interior is coming along nicely ... it looks nice and I am sure by the detail you cover, it will be functional as well!

Good job...

[orcadigital]

First, thank you for all of the kind replies. It is due to this forum that I have gotten as far along as I have, and all of the great people who pioneered this process before me.

Are you thinking standing or sitting height workbenches? Are you also planning to make them removable like mine or fixed?

Sitting height, so somewhere in the 31"-32" counter height range. While standing/stool height will work, the trailer feels a lot smaller with taller counters. I have a stainless garage workshop height table I have used, as well as the lower folding tables, and I prefer the lower. Also more chair options (and comfortable chair options) with the lower height. I built the front counter at the same height as well. The lower 2 door cabinet is an upper kitchen cabinet and 30" tall. With a 1x2 spacer on the bottom (so the doors open smoothly) and a 5/8" thick counter, that puts me right in the ballpark. It also gives me the additional few inches above the counters for shelves, etc.

I will be making them removable, but still back and forth on exactly how. My first and still current thought is to use e-track at counter height and floor height, and using the end anchors they have, built out a 2x4 frame horizontal from the wall at counter height, then angled back legs to the track at the floor. This would cause less interference with the legs if they came straight down, and hopefully would not compromise too much in strength. I could also fully suspend the rear counter with 2x4's left to right across the back of the trailer for those times I need to pit a 3rd person. The other options are just the counter height etrack and legs straight down in the front, or fully freestanding like you did. I am trying to balance cost, sturdiness, usability, and the ability to move/remove the counters by myself.

I also need to make sure to keep clear of the converter box in the front (did not think about the counter support/leg when I was determining where to put the converter).

I still need to make a boxed in tower for the left rear corner of the trailer that is removable, but attaches to the wall and can hold the AC unit.

[nitro_mt_racer]

I think your e-track mounted workbenches will offer everything that you're looking for vesus my freestanding design, especially when it comes to being able to move them by yourself. In fact, when I get my new trailer I may incorporate that design into mine versus the freestanding.

[dpjeansonne]

First, thank you for all of the kind replies. It is due to this forum that I have gotten as far along as I have, and all of the great people who pioneered this process before me.

Are you thinking standing or sitting height workbenches? Are you also planning to make them removable like mine or fixed?

Sitting height, so somewhere in the 31"-32" counter height range. While standing/stool height will work, the trailer feels a lot smaller with taller counters. I have a stainless garage workshop height table I have used, as well as the lower folding tables, and I prefer the lower. Also more chair options (and comfortable chair options) with the lower height. I built the front counter at the same height as well. The lower 2 door cabinet is an upper kitchen cabinet and 30" tall. With a 1x2 spacer on the bottom (so the doors open smoothly) and a 5/8" thick counter, that puts me right in the ballpark. It also gives me the additional few inches above the counters for shelves, etc.

I will be making them removable, but still back and forth on exactly how. My first and still current thought is to use e-track at counter height and floor height, and using the end anchors they have, built out a 2x4 frame horizontal from the wall at counter height, then angled back legs to the track at the floor. This would cause less interference with the legs if they came straight down, and hopefully would not compromise too much in strength. I could also fully suspend the rear counter with 2x4's left to right across the back of the trailer for those times I need to pit a 3rd person. The other options are just the counter height etrack and legs straight down in the front, or fully freestanding like you did. I am trying to balance cost, sturdiness, usability, and the ability to move/remove the counters by myself.

I also need to make sure to keep clear of the converter box in the front (did not think about the counter support/leg when I was determining where to put the converter).

I still need to make a boxed in tower for the left rear corner of the trailer that is removable, but attaches to the wall and can hold the AC unit.

I am having trouble visualizing the wall attachments. I guess it is just me. Do you have pictures or a rough drawing / sketch?
It sure would help me understand as I am interested in its use.