by bookcrazzzy » Mon Jun 13, 2011 11:28 am
Thanks again for the postings everyone. I spent some time yesterday going through all of the info I had saved from different threads over the past few months and put the advice about buying and features into an organized grouping. I wish I had noted who said what but I didn't, so I'll just ask a pardon. Anyway, for those who will find it helpful, here is the stuff I found:
Getting a good deal:
Ask the dealer for a "scrath and dent" trailer and a discount. I did. I covered 3 dings and a scratch with Featherlite bumper stickers. Make a low offer on the one that's been on the lot the longest and moved around the most, gaining dings and scratches...seriously.
To add to the discussion, here are some comments I had clipped from other threads. I wish I had clipped who posted them but I didn't so I'll just ask pardon from those folks.
General:
For instance, I would have rather purchased a Wells Cargo trailer, all things being equal, because they have the best reputation among cargo trailer people. But they are more expensive than most, and I was friends with a Pace-American dealer, so I bought a Pace-American. Other well-known brands include Interstate, Haulmark, CargoMate and Featherlite. And that's not to say that other brands and, frankly, no-name brands aren't equally as good. Trailers can be primarily steel-based, which are heavier, or primarily constructed of aluminum (Featherlite), which is lighter but much more expensive.
Within a brand, there's usually economy, standard and commercial-level build qualities. Economy trailers (P-A's Outback, Wells Cargo's TC Trecker, Haulmark's Light Cargo) usually have minimal features, flat roofs and light-duty components. The standard trailers (P-A's Journey model, Wells Cargo's Road Force, Haulmark's Transport) have upgrades like sturdier, rounded-top roofs and roof caps, better suspensions (torsion is usually better than spring axles, for instance.), thicker walls and floors, LED lights and upgraded tongue jacks. And of course the upper end trailers (P-A's CargoSport, Wells Cargo brand, Haulmark's Cub, Kodiak and Grizzly trailers) have more toys and goodies, plus more available options.
If you are ordering a cargo trailer to be used for both camping and cargo, some of the more useful factory-built options might be windows, insulation, RV-style side doors and electricity (AC ad DC). A 5'x8' and 5'x10' trailer may or may not have a side door standard; it can usually be added as an option. The 6' wide trailers usually come with a side door. Depending on your needs and wishes a pull-down ramp door in the back my be more useful than the standard swing-open rear doors.
Size:
also think of the overall length and weight your towing; the 6X10 is more like 14' with the tongue hitch, about 1300 new and 1700 lbs trimmed out.
5' wide trailers may pull easier because of their narrower profile on smaller or lighter tow vehicles (TV) like your Jeep. A 6' wide trailer has the big advantage that most people can sleep across the width of the trailer, which allows for more floor plan options. You also have to think about where you're going to keep the trailer when not using it. All other things being equal, and considering the ultimate weight of your built-out trailer, I don't think anyone ever regrets getting the biggest trailer they can afford. If you're willing to go 6 x 12, step into a 7 x 12 and compare the feel; consider the building possibilities. No extra length for getting into smaller camp spots.
I almost got a 7 x 12 or 7 x 14 but did not like the fact that those would be harder to see behind on the road. I don't like extension mirrors.
Steel frame/ribbed cargo trailers go up in weight fast as they get longer and wider. So called seven wides have tires that are the legal width (8 ft. 6 in.) for any vehicle on the road. Six wides have the tires at 8 ft. (This is why I like inboard wheels, not outboard, but no cargo trailers have them except the 8 wides.) Watch your weight. Go for the smallest trailer that just barely will meet your needs. You'll have buyer's remorse initially, and then you'll get in some tight places with it and will wish it was shorter and narrower.
I would suggest towing an empty cargo trailer (or two) around so you know what it will be like, pull it at highway speed. Give it a test drive, like buying a car. I didn't and it cost me a grand to learn this lesson. Be sure you know what it feels like and see if it will work for you. The weight you'll likely put in it won't be much of a factor except for braking. You might consider electric brakes, depending on your tow vehicle.
V-Nose:
Cargos vary with the v-nose models. When you get inside and feel the volume of a deep v-nose versus a flat-front, it's considerable. Then you measure the v-nose versus the flat-front from hitch to rear. The v-nose will be up to 12 inches longer overall because the tongue is built longer. (On shallow v-noses, this usually won't be true.)
V-noses have flat roof (only slightly rounded) that mate to aluminum structural trim, so they don't come with easily-broken, fiberglass, curved caps on the front. V-noses are usually (depending on brand) rated for their length on the length of their flat sides, not including the v.
All Aluminum vs. Steel:
I have a 7 x 12 (all aluminum). We have towed it with my son's 4 cylinder Toyota pickup just fine. My son's 6 x 10 (steel chassis and ribs/aluminum sides/heavy plywood walls), shallow v-nose is slightly heavier than my trailer.
When I tow my 12-foot Featherlite aluminum chassis trailer, I barely know it's behind my tow vehicle. It only weighs 1,250 pounds loaded.
Color:
White, gray, silver to stay cooler in summer
Axles:
When you go to dual axle, it adds about $800 to the price as well.
Frame:
One of the things that I considered when I bought my trailer was the construction of the frame (walls, ceiling, floor and chassis). A lot of companies can keep their price down by using hatpost framing in the walls and the ceiling. The shape is also used for steel fence post designs. Depending on what your application is going to be might dictate what type of framing you may want. I chose a square tubular construction because I plan on using my trailer for hauling stuff and for camping. I thought this might be a little stronger and it is easy to screw into with self tapping screws. Weight wasn't a big issue with me because I am planning on using my F150 to tow with.
I just ordered a Cargo Express Pro series cargo trailer. One of the big selling features for me was the construction of the frame (walls and roof crossmembers). They use steel square tube construction in the walls and roof. Weight for me isn't that big of an issue. Exterior is .030 aluminum as is the roofing too. I am not a big fan of galvanized steel. I have seen it rust over time. The v-nose models have a 1 piece roof so there is no seams on the rooftop. They overlap the roofing onto the side wall exteriors. I looked at the rounded roofs and they seemed to have a few seams. I researched alot of different manufacturers and this one seemed to fit my bill the best.
Roof:
Once piece construction is much better. Continuous aluminum roof is top of the line. When you wire it, drill the holes in the 1" steel tubing to accept rubber o-ring grommets or just silicon the holes when the wires are run thru them. Road vibration will eventually wear the insulation off the wires if you don't. (My Featherlite has silicon caulking even where the wires make a right turn on the ends. They are glued so they can't move.)
Stud Spacing:
24â€
