Coleman stove help

[ERV]

I am going through the camping gear, and I tried to pump up one of the stoves and it will not hold pressure. Is there a check valve in the tank? If I put my thumb on the pump it comes back up and I hear air coming out. I see a spot down in the hole for a screw driver, but it is very tight. I don't want to wreak something. And I guess if it does come out, where would I get one? Thanks, Erv

[rainjer]

Here is a set of instructions on how to tear a stove down. It also covers the pump assembly.

http://www.oldcolemanparts.com/resource ... tove_a.cfm

Jeremy

[ERV]

Thanks Jeremy! That looks like fun. Well off to the shop to find a big screwdriver. I looked all over for a link on Colemans site. Thanks again. Erv

[rainjer]

The way I did it was to grind down the tip of an old spade drill bit to fit it. then I put tape in the shaft near the top to keep I centered. Chuck the bit up in my drill, put it in reverse on high torque, and pull the trigger.

On thing to keep in mind is the slot in the check valve is not flat across the bottom.

Jeremy

[Toytaco2]

I'm no expert on this, but, I have rebuilt several old Coleman stoves now. Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but I think leaking check valves don't occur that often, if you are sure to turn the pump rod closed after you pump up the stove. The part that most often leaks, as you probably know already, is the gasket on the fuel cap. I'd make sure the rod is fully closed after pumping up the pressure and that the gasket is good before going to all the trouble to remove the check valve. My understanding is that they can be pretty tough to get out and (as has already been said), you need to make or buy a special tool to remove them.

Good Luck,
Mike

[doug hodder]

Mikes right, pull the shaft from the valve seat and check out the end on it. If it's scored badly, it may be the problem if it doesn't seal when fully tightened. If it doesn't come out with the spade bit method like Jeremy mentioned, I've used a #4 ez out and welded it to a 3/8" bolt. They always come out, once you do that, you need to get a new valve however and they are readily available. Tanks that have a lot of crud or have had water in them and are really rusted up seem to be the real culprits. Doug

[ERV]

Thanks guys, But I am sure it is the check valve. I can pump it up but the air comes out before I can get the rod tight. The drill looks like the way to go. Didn't find a screwdriver big enough. Was gone to Sears tomorrow. But I do have a lot of old flat spades. I will give it a try tomorrow at work. I have a wood vise there I can use to hold the tank. Thanks again for your help. I will let you know how I do.

Erv

[WarPony]

I'm no expert on this, but, I have rebuilt several old Coleman stoves now. Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but I think leaking check valves don't occur that often, if you are sure to turn the pump rod closed after you pump up the stove.
Mike

My thought on the check valves is this........... replace them. I, too, am no expert but I pretty much replace the check valves, pump cups, cap gaskets and generators on the lanterns and stoves I buy. Those are the "moving parts" that get the most wear so I just eliminate those right off the bat.

I agree with Mike about the valves leaking but if that little check ball or the seat it seats on has some varnish or green corrosion, the pump will come back out no matter if the valve is closed or not. Kind of like a dripping faucet at home.......... yeah, it's off but there is still a small leak.

Jeff

[rainjer]

Thanks guys, But I am sure it is the check valve. I can pump it up but the air comes out before I can get the rod tight. The drill looks like the way to go. Didn't find a screwdriver big enough. Was gone to Sears tomorrow. But I do have a lot of old flat spades. I will give it a try tomorrow at work. I have a wood vise there I can use to hold the tank. Thanks again for your help. I will let you know how I do.

Erv

I will take a picture and post how mine is ground.

Jeremy

[rainjer]

Here you go.



Jeremy

[High Desert]

Erv, when you removed the pump plunger was the needle valve (w/ the long square stem) still seated in the valve or did it come out with the plunger?

[doug hodder]

Make sure you pad the tank well so you don't bend it out of shape if you put it in any vice type thing. Doug

[ERV]

Jeremy, thanks that helps.

Shaun, Yea it was in the tank still. It looks fine. As soon as I would unsrew it to pump up the tank tho it would leak air. If I pumped up the tank fast and close it down with my thumb on the hole at the top the tank would hold a little pressure. So I know it is the check valve.

Thanks Doug, I will try. ha. Iwill let you all know how Ido, going up this morn to give it a try.

Erv

[High Desert]

Good luck Erv. Sometimes they can be a bear but often they will come out without a fight. Sounds like you've got it well diagnosed.

[starleen2]

Sometimes a liuttle carb cleaner soak in will do the trip - the pump valve says" oil" and some just put any ole oil in and it tends to gum up the check valve.