First build 5x10 Rimple design

[mariannf]

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I have the two windows cut. The placement is so that each bunk bed has its own window which i am sure my kids will love.

I cut both with jig saw by following traced line made from the window trim ring. The only issue is that to accommodate the trim ring the size of the cut out is a little big for the window, so when you place the window into the hole it is not snug (it could be slid maybe an 1/8 inch in any direction). I think that when I actually join the trim ring to the window it won't be a problem since the trim ring screws into the channel in the window frame (no screws through the frame or walls). So i would think the window will be secured and centered as a result of that joining. The trim rings fit very snug into the cuts.
I have seen some other posts related to this, and it looks like if in fact there are gaps that using saw dust and glue I could make a putty to build out where needed and fill any gap.

Question for anyone tuned in: If there is a slight gap at small points on the exterior wall around the window (but it otherwise joins just fine and is securely in) could i just use silicone caulk around the windows (this would water tight it as well) or butyl tape?

[KCStudly]

I would think that you would want the RO (rough opening) to be slightly larger than the tightest part; which in your case sounds like the trim ring... so long as the flange covers the opening all around by a good margin. The aluminum window frame will expand and contract at a different rate than the wood, so you want a little give and take. In fact, my windows came with little rubber pads, about 1/8 inch thk, stuck to the bottom edges of the frames to hold them up off of the wood.

I think what most people are calling Butyl is actually RV putty tape. Grant Whipp (a former professional TD builder and parts retailer) explains the difference here.

It seems like most people go around the edge of the flange with caulk after the putty tape has had a chance to compress and gets trimmed, but I'm not sure why. I would think that the putty tape does the sealing and makes for a cleaner look once trimmed. Perhaps someone with more experience can explain better.

[S. Heisley]

Use Butyl or RV putty tape. Butyl is supposed to be better. Grant had given me some tape that he said was butyl and it was better than the RV putty tape that I had previously used; but then, later, he told me that the stuff he gave me was RV putty tape. Whatever it was, it was better than the RV putty tape that I got from the RV supply store. You'll probably have to go online to order the butyl tape. Order it now, while the weather is cool because, if they send it in an envelope and it's hot outside, it will sometimes be smashed down by the weight of other packages on the shipment trucks. Then, it'll be harder to use. Be sure to store your tape in the refrigerator until you are ready to use it. Don't install your windows until you have finished your walls with paint or aluminum or whatever you are going to use. Be sure to seal all cut edges, especially window and door openings and anywhere that water might become a problem. There could be a tiny bit of seepage from the butyl or putty tape, when the windows are installed. I cleaned my excess off with my fingernail, followed by a little window cleaner and a paper towel. Both butyl and RV putty tape have more give than silicone caulk; plus, once silicone caulk has dried, it can be a bugger to clean off. ...My 2 cents.

[mariannf]

Thanks KC and Sharon!

[mariannf]

I got the first door cut. The pic is all of the drivers side profile. I decided to try the router for the cut. I set up a fence and used a 1/4 straight bit. The first cut was perfect. The second cut though the bit kept failing to cut straight. Hard to describe but it seemed like the router was catching on something in the wood...which I know wasn't the actual case but is what it felt like. So I decided to use a jig saw for the other cuts. I set up a fence along each line and this helped get a good true straight cut. The door fit perfectly. It is 26x36.

[KCStudly]

Maybe you were traveling in the wrong direction with the router? You want the cutter to be turning so that if it was a wheel it would be driving the router in the opposite direction to the travel direction.

In other words, a conventional cut.

Here, this will explain it better: Lee Valley Link.

[mariannf]

Maybe you were traveling in the wrong direction with the router? You want the cutter to be turning so that if it was a wheel it would be driving the router in the opposite direction to the travel direction.

In other words, a conventional cut.

Here, this will explain it better: Lee Valley Link.

Thanks KC. This might explain it.

[KCStudly]

Another possibility could be that you were trying to take too much in one pass. If that is the case you can leave your fence where it is and take a free hand pass slightly off the fence (w/o fear of an oops) before taking another pass against the fence.

I find anything more than about 1/3 the cutter diameter is too much; less for harder woods.

Edit to clarify: when using 1/2 inch flush cutting bits.

[mariannf]

Another possibility could be that you were trying to take too much in one pass. If that is the case you can leave your fence where it is and take a free hand pass slightly off the fence (w/o fear of an oops) before taking another pass against the fence.

I find anything more than about 1/3 the cutter diameter is too much; less for harder woods.

Edit to clarify: when using 1/2 inch flush cutting bits.

Thanks KC that might explain it. I have 3/4 ply and tried a 1/4 inch straight bit then a 1/2 inch bit.

[mariannf]

Ok I got the passenger side door cut out. So all exterior wall cuts are done. I'll start the interior skin next. Plan to lay the birch 3mm 5x5 under the exterior walls, trace the cut outs and then do the cutting. Are there any better methods for cutting the interior skin to match the exterior or other words of guidance?

[mariannf]

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I cut the interior skin. It is 3mm birch 5x5. I laid them behind the exterior walls clamped them in place and traced the cuts from the exterior walls. I then laid them flat on the floor and used a straight bit in a router to cut the lines, cutting down through all but one ply. I used a utility knife to cut through the last ply. I did this becAuse the birch is too bendy to clamp and make stiff enough to cut all the way through. I then put them back up against the exterior walls and used a 1/4 finishing bit in the router to clean it up. I placed the various trim rings for the windows and doors to see that they fit...they did!

[S. Heisley]

Very nice!

[mariannf]

:thumbsup: Very nice!

Thanks Sharon!
Next up is the framing.

[mariannf]

I got to framing today. Framed windows and doors using 1x2. As suggested, used 1x4 for the curved roof cuts. I used a miter box to cut one 17 inch section at both ends at 45 degrees plus two 12 inch long sections per curved corner. So three total pieces per corner. I clamped them in place and then traced out the curve. I used a jigsaw to make the cuts and clearly marked each piece so I would remember what goes where. Then I reassembled and glued and clamped the pieces in place. I used 1x2 for the rest of the framing along the roof line.

[mariannf]

Finished corner