Steve Smoot starts his camper

[steve smoot]

Thanks Al, I still do not know which design to build. I like them both.

The straight line design was my first thought, and it would be easier.

Please help me

[Classic Finn]

Hey Steve. Congrats. This will be great to watch your build progress.

[steve smoot]

please help me...turn off the computer...don't let me log on to Google Sketchup...I have not slept in days...I think the wife said she wants a divorce...not sure...something about life or death...

OK, I have changed my mind again...I know, I know...well, here it is..this is the one I'm going to attemp to build. It is similar to the Compak look-a-like that Andrew designed back in '07 except mine will only be 8' long by 6' wide, and the lift top will only be 4' wide like Andrew's plans.

so, what do think?

[glassice]

It looks like you got a start no turning back .
The curves give a old time look lot's of luck

[grizz]

CURVES.... Harder to do ultimately, but then also very rewarding on the eye.

Now get on and make some sawdust, or else we may just take the wife's side

[down under tech]

Hi Steve It is OK to change your mind. Especially before you start building. Take the time you need to come up with the right plans for YOU. It doesn't cost anything to change plans now, the problems arises after the saw dust starts to fly.

When you are finished with your build and someone asks you where you got the plans, you can say you just thought them up in your head and it turned out exactly as you envisioned it up-stairs. They will be none the wiser.
They will think, "This man is a genius."

Good luck and I like your new & improved PLANS.

[Alfred]

Hey Steve,

That looks like a cool design. You will have a unique camper! Keep us posted to the progress!

AL in Asheville, NC

[teardrop_focus]

Hey, Steve, the curves aren't hard to do at all... when the sides are flat and straight, that is. If there're no compound curves, it's easy to build using the simple curve typical of any canned ham travel trailer or teardrop trailer. One is simply bending thinner ply over the framework or sidewalls rather than laying it on flat. It's all basically the same work, to put it simply.

Steve Smoot

Do the curved, canned-ham look! You'll be happier! and remember, Keep It Simple, Steve... that chassis won't be good for a heavyweight build. Keep it simple and light. You'll have better towing performance, too, from your tug.

[steve smoot]

Thanks for the comments everyone. Chris, I am trying to keep it very light weight. My TV is a Subaru Forester, and it's only rated to 1500 pounds, plus we live in the Blue Ridge mountains. I can not get home without going up hill...

So, that is why I have chosen to go with the lower profile. It will tow better behind the Sub. Also, it will fit in my garage. Take care.

Steve

[steve smoot]

Hi everyone,

OK, I bought some wood today. I hope to start framing tomorrow. I will post pictures, if all goes as planned...

I ran a ground wire to each light on the HF trailer and got all the lights working today.

Steve

[S. Heisley]

Steve wrote:

OK, I have changed my mind again...I know, I know...well, here it is..this is the one I'm going to attemp to build. It is similar to the Compak look-a-like that Andrew designed back in '07 except mine will only be 8' long by 6' wide, and the lift top will only be 4' wide like Andrew's plans.

so, what do think?

Steve,

I can't tell you how many times I changed my mind before I settled on a design. You want as much as you can get for your time and money and efforts. I will tell you that the more features you put into your design, the more you'll probably be scratching your head down the road and the longer that road will become. Still, it is fun.

You can do it but you'll have to really watch the weight every step of the way. Follow Andrew's plans as much as you can. Be careful not of overbuild. Mine is going to be roughly 5x8' and I am having a time keeping the weight down to around 1000 lbs. Your's is going to be 6x8'. Mine is only 4' tall, not counting the rising roof. Andrew's design is 5' tall, not counting the rising roof. That adds another 48 square feet and more weight on yours. Keep in mind also, that extra foot of height in the stationary walls will add towing difficulty and lessen fuel efficiency.

By the way, I'm assuming that your sketch is rough draft as there are a few details missing, including the side of the lifting roof. The lifting roof is built like a box lid, fitting around a built-up lip. This helps keep water out when you're on the road.

Git 'er done!

[aggie79]

Steve,

Nice start on the trailer. For those of us with lesser mechanical skills, bloodletting is part of the process.

As Steve said, don't fret the curves. If they are 12" or larger in radius, they are pretty easy to do. An 8" to 12" radius takes a little more work but can be done. Smaller than that will require some different techniques.

As Sharon said, resist the temptation to overbuild. The components may seem flimsy by themselves, but once the assemblies start coming together, the teardrop structure becomes quite strong.

I look forward to your build.

[WesGrimes]

I added compound curves to my design, and it has added a great bit of complexity to my build. The simple curves are no problem though.

[steve smoot]

OKay, I tried to get started last Thursday, but my BP got way out of control. It ran up to 176/110. My doctor thought I could get by on less BP med's...guess not...anyway, got that straightened out Friday and went back to the camper...

I am going to attempt to add a few pictures here, but I can not figure out how to upload a bunch at one time...

I did about 90% of the framing last Friday. It looked like this...




It looks like this today..







I will try to explain a little of what I did. I decided to make the bottom one piece of 3/4"x 4'x 8' treated plywood, so I would not have to tar and feather the dang thing. also, this saved money by only using one piece.

Then I placed 2x6 treated timbers on edge to get above the wheels. I still have almost 4'x8' walking area in the center.

Next, I framed the walls with 2x2" which I cut from 2x4"x8' material. Almost no waste at all...

Then I paneled the inside with cheap 1/8" paneling from Lowes. Only bought 4 pieces and have enough left to do the inside of the rear door.

That's about it for today. Going to TCBY for a treat..

[steve smoot]

Oh, I forgot a few details...I used Gorilla glue for all the wood to wood joints and screwed all the framing together..

I used Panel glue and 3/4" staples to fasten paneling to framing...

I decided to build my camper similar to how you would frame a truck camper. I had looked at Glenn-L's website for truck camper plans and it just seemed right for me.

I will add more pictures as I go along.

Steve

PS: I did not cut out for the windows, as I have not gotten them yet. Better wait to make sure I do not screw up my paneling job..