Benroy for my baby

[clamlamp]

After I routed the dados for the galley area that was able to make the divider wall and insert from the top. While the glue is drying on the vent spars and the window spars I was installing the inside skin. It took a few days to slowly bend the plywood, slowly wetting and bending until it fit. It's a tough job to attach the skin without a second or third pair of hands so get help. I made the mistake of doing it alone.

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[clamlamp]

Starting from the back I installed the vent fans sparse and then the Stargazer spars and moved forward about 8 inches on center on other spars. My spars are made out of poplar and 7\8" thick by 1.5" wide. I doubled up around the vent and window for extra support and space for screws. I used a flush trim but cutting a hole in the skin for the vent and it's probably the scariest moment so far. I was able to finish all the spars and cut out today which is a huge relief.

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[Staryder61]

The framing for the fan, windows and spars looking really good..
Order some pizza, cokes and have a couple students help when you need some extra hands..
Doing a great job clam...

[HarleyCamper]

I had used CPES before canvassing because I had planned on skinning with aluminum but had to change to PMF. When trimming the canvas I found that it didn't adhere ad well as I thought or hoped. So I would not treat or seal the plywood before canvassing. The TBII or paint will penetrate the wood whereas if the wood were sealed it can't.

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[clamlamp]

The framing for the fan, windows and spars looking really good..
Order some pizza, cokes and have a couple students help when you need some extra hands..
Doing a great job clam...

Thanks staryder61!

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[clamlamp]

I had used CPES before canvassing because I had planned on skinning with aluminum but had to change to PMF. When trimming the canvas I found that it didn't adhere ad well as I thought or hoped. So I would not treat or seal the plywood before canvassing. The TBII or paint will penetrate the wood whereas if the wood were sealed it can't.

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Thanks, thats what I was thinking but needed the confirmation!

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[clamlamp]

Secured the cabin on the trailer. Surprised how light it is on wheels, I am able to wheel it with one hand

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[Staryder61]

Keep going Clam, you're doing great... waiting for a new update..

[S. Heisley]

It's looking immaculate!

[daveesl77]

What an absolutely beautiful job and true craftsmanship! Wow!

dave

[clamlamp]

Thanks for the wonderful compliments! I'm glad to have you all along this journey. People never really understand unless they have built one themselves. I used the Tapatalk app to update but my phone crapped out on me so I've been using a cheap loaner phone from a friend until my phone gets repaired. I'm not sure how to upload via PC so I'll just try after.

https://drive.google.com/open?id=1-URMVp8ToXAzMQezwgREAWJlLZlNA0jY

https://drive.google.com/open?id=1G0fkGCZEyzmdNli74HtPXF88wf4PFobr

After securing the body to the trailer, I began to run electrical wiring. Please don't laugh at my electrical knowledge but I just tried to consider that I would never be able to open up my skin again to fix any issues so I decided to run positive and negative wires to each device/outlet. I'm aware that I could split or add connectors but that leaves chance of failure at the connection point that I'm unwilling to accept. So I ran A LOT of wires. I also decided to run a dedicated fuse box and neg bus in the galley just in case I wanted to add a water pump or anything else in the galley area in the future.

https://drive.google.com/open?id=1H1_EztBRWssz53JJx1fRcvhpqnr77xZY

https://drive.google.com/open?id=11I6RpDkWr-Zngv2hD_nVjCKHrUUmwKX3

One thing I made a mistake on is not running wires for the rear running lights. I was under the assumption that trailers only needed the front runners because that is what it came with but now I realized the stock tail lights contained the rear running lights....

One of the issues with my trailer is that it's 60.50" wide because of the L bar system in the carry on trailer. I didn't want to leave the trailer exposed because water would settle between the wood and the metal. It's been a headache building around that because it makes the width slightly over 60" so now I have to join two pieces of plywood for the roof. My solution is instead of splitting the line down the middle and having to buy double the sheets of plywood, I would just split around the wiring area to cover a full sheet plus a few inches to cover the wiring. The odd line would be eventually covered by PMF so will not be seen. So this idea caused me to have to make identical supports to the sides that I cut out from the wall. Needless to say it took a long time cutting and sanding pieces to fit because there wasn't a template. I also think it could beneficial because it would act like a firewall and I can just spray foam that small area.

https://drive.google.com/open?id=1kUPGV2wrFoFrdie7Mup6t0sLkgzHiTO7

https://drive.google.com/open?id=1SN2jLKWVwP6XE84kcbJ1ichx_YkhuvCu

I also was able to glue in the foam insulation. I couldn't find the pink stuff everyone else uses so I had to use 1.5" Styrofoam insulation from HD. I didn't have a hot knife so I started using a utility knife but found that the a bandsaw can cut Styrofoam quite nicely. I started gluing with gorilla glue but that got expensive quickly so I switch to PL Premium which worked a lot better and was able to hold the foam down mostly without clamping for most pieces.

[Staryder61]

The designated hot and neutral wires are a good idea in my opinion,, I know some differ in opinion.. so for the wiring.. you use more wire, though, in the long run gives you peace of mind (knowing less chances of shorts)..

I've wired and rewired several different boats using your method and have never had a short,, where-as, I have had a hard time running down a short on others boats where they have spliced everything together .. most of those shorts would be either under the boat (Pontoon boats floors) ,in a small console or under a dash, where it looks like a spider web .. and no room to work..

Your wire chase did help you out with the wider than 60" width, and when covered you'll know exactly where the front to back wires are run.. only have to mark where the cross wires run to everything,, as to not staple through them when applying the skin, if you use a stapler or pin gun to help with the application of the skin..

[clamlamp]

Your wire chase did help you out with the wider than 60" width, and when covered you'll know exactly where the front to back wires are run.. only have to mark where the cross wires run to everything,, as to not staple through them when applying the skin, if you use a stapler or pin gun to help with the application of the skin..

I tried to staple my 1/8" skin to wood before but it just punches a whole right through. Did you use 1/4" skin?

[Staryder61]

I did 1/8" ply for the interior roof, PL adhesive on the struts, used a Arrow T50 hand squeezed staple gun shooting 3/8" crown staples, to hold the 1/8" in place.
Then put wood strips across where the struts were and clamped.. the T50 didn't set the staples.. and were easy to pull back out or sand off after everything dried.
Have used air staplers before, had to adjust the air pressure low until the staple didn't blow through the 1/8"

[tony.latham]

[img]I%20tried%20to%20staple%20my%201/8"%20skin%20to%20wood%20before%20but%20it%20just%20punches%20a%20whole%20right%20through...[/img]

My Dewalt 1/4" pneumatic crown stapler does just fine on 1/8" BB. It does have a power adjustment on it.

T