The casing look is a succes from an old 3/4 test Pine board.
Pretty impressive what some hole saw and some hand sanding can do...
![Image](http://gardedapophis.no-ip.org:8080/teardrop/DAY14/4.jpg)
Here's how I did.
Held the whole thing in a Vise.
I began by drilling the circonference with a 4" hole saw. (I kept 1/8" uncut in depth.
Then, I started with the biggest inner hole (2½"). Approx 3/16" depth. --> (To seat the PCB)
Next, I Used the 2" holesaw to an other 3/8" depth. (9/16" Total) --> (To Hold the Lexan). Leaves me approx 3/16" depth available.
Next, the center hole with a 1 3/4" --> (To let the light out...)
*After, You can clean easely the crap between stages with a flat screwdriver.
Finished the 4" hole (I started first) and started sanding...
I used some leftover 3/16" Lexan sheet from an other project and a old piece of Pine laying in my garage...
It looks awesome and its not even finished.....
I Also thought of venting em by doing 6x 1/8" holes on the side and by having a hole on center of PCB.
![Thumbs Up :thumbsup:](./images/smilies/econ_thumbsup.gif)
I'll Use 2x 1W Led (or 3) per puck. 3.3V @ 0.33A (160* view).
These can turn you blind if you look at em to close within the 160 degree Radius...
![Laughing :lol:](./images/smilies/econ_laugh.gif)
Heres my calculations for 2 Led/Puck (Led in series)
R = (VSource - Volt LED) / Amps LED
R = (12.6V - 6.6V) / 0.33A = 18.18Ω
PRes = (6V * 0.33) = 1.98W
(4x 72Ω 1/2W in parallel.)
Heres my calculations for 3 Led/Puck (Led in series)
R = (VSource - Volt LED) / Amps LED
R = (12.6V - 9.9V) / 0.33A = 8.18Ω
PRes = (2.7V * 0.33) = 0.891W
(2x 16Ω 1/2W in parallel.)
OR
Connecting 2x (2 Led) Puck Lights in Series to Eliminate the useless Heating and
power eating resistor in the circuit.
EMAX LED = 3.3V x (2 x 2 Led) = 13.6V
In Theory the Puck lights would be near optimal brightness, will have less heat dissipation if
the car alternator is charging and they will have a longer life....
I think it's the best solution but 3 led looks better than a 2 leds puck IMHO...
Will test and post the results...
I have an Idea, but dont have the thing on hand at home to confirm it.
I have access to Old LCD screen. In those, there is some back Reflective papers between the Backlight and the LCD itself. To be simple,
it gives the screen a uniform brightness. (So, you dont see the Blacklithing brigther on top and bottom than in the middle of the screen)
With those, the light wont pass if not within a certain angle. So i could make the led more like a "Cool" lightning...
![Thinking :thinking:](./images/smilies/econ_thinking.gif)
And, we wont see the PCB and the leds at all...
![Very Happy :D](./images/smilies/econ_goldtooth.gif)
I cant wait to test that theory.
![Twisted Evil :twisted:](./images/smilies/econ_twistedevil.gif)
![Image](http://gardedapophis.no-ip.org:8080/teardrop/DAY14/5.jpg)
![Image](http://gardedapophis.no-ip.org:8080/teardrop/DAY14/2.jpg)
I started the top Cabinet.
Starting from the top:
On each side goes a 6" Speaker.
On center im undecided if i leave it open of with a big or 2 small doors. (No worry, i can think about this later....)
In the middle, 2 small cabinet. between em goes 2 embeded 3" Can Holder, a 120V (For eventual alarm clock) and 12V Outlets and 2 (or 3) Puck Lights
On the Bottom (Not builded yet), will be 2 big cabinet. strong enough to support us when we will lean back against it to watch TV. I have no Idea yet how I will do it...
Also, I'll need to finish the floor and roof there before going any further with the bottom Cabs.
![Image](http://gardedapophis.no-ip.org:8080/teardrop/DAY14/3.jpg)
You can notice one of the future 3" Embeded glass Holder.
At the time to take these photo, only 4 screw were in place to hold all this... (No j/k..)
![Laughing :lol:](./images/smilies/econ_laugh.gif)
On this pic, Everything is holding by my prayer....
![Shocked :shock:](./images/smilies/econ_shocked.gif)