Father-Daughter Build 2013-14

[be_a_jayhawk]

Love the work I have a 5x10 I found on CL I chopped as well. Hope it warms up soon so I can get back to it.

[lfrazer98]

We are planning on using a natural "varnish" on my inside walls, but I wanted to go 2-toned with the cabinetry. I put varnish in quotes just in case that wasn't the correct term. Still figuring out all the correct words. I want to stain the exterior slightly darker, but think an interior shin should be on the lighter side as to not bring in the walls and ceiling closer than they already are.

Ordered some stabilizer jacks tonight, but am still trying to find a fixed mount tongue jack with a wheel. Found one or 2, but am holding off since it isn't imperative that I have it right now. The tongue is only about 14 inches between the coupler and the front of the tongue rack, so I don't think I can find a swivel jack that is small enough.

Staining the samples of wood tomorrow for my cabinets and will take pictures if I like what I see. I also hope to have a sketch up of my interior cabinets that I can post. I know these are finishing type decisions, but we can't do much with the walls roof, etc since my father is leaving in a week or so for Florida. That will have to wait until his first trip back.

More to come tomorrow.

[lfrazer98]

Love the work I have a 5x10 I found on CL I chopped as well. Hope it warms up soon so I can get back to it.

We have been bundled up in the garage working for short periods of time. It is COLD! No heat in our garage. Were you able to cut off all the side angle iron off the frame? We had trouble getting the welds all off. We think we will have to gasket or put a lot of sealant between the side walls on the outside of the angle frame since my walls will cover the frame. Good luck with your build!! Thanks for commenting!

[be_a_jayhawk]

Yes there were some welds I was able to grind enough and then pound them free but after doing a few of the "easy" ones I went to plan b. The reciprocating saw cut them off nice and clean and then a grind to flatten and round off the edges. It was definitely a big job to clean it up the previous owner was using it to haul trash. The wood flooring and panels were pretty nasty. But back to the rails, I chopped them off and she is looking solid after primer. I do worry about sealing the base as mounting the side walls over the side wont work with the wheel wells but I will become friends with a couple tubes of caulk, sealer, and paint. Where there is a will there is a way!

[lfrazer98]

I do worry about sealing the base as mounting the side walls over the side wont work with the wheel wells but I will become friends with a couple tubes of caulk, sealer, and paint. Where there is a will there is a way!

Yeah, I pushed to have the fenders removed since I wanted a full 60 inches inside the walls so I could have a queen size mattress. I will have to buy fenders ,but I think the expense is worth it so I can have a perfect size interior, as far as I am concerned.
I am also nervous about sealing the bottom. I want every crack and crevice to be water tight and it seems like it is an impossible task. Got my tar on, but still have to seal/caulk all the seams, edges, bolts, etc. If there is a space, it will be filled. Keep the enthusiasm up! It is catchy!

[be_a_jayhawk]

I went with the 5 wide to get a queen bed in as well, so maximizing the width is crucial. However there is no way I am going to build it around a mattress that might go bad from wear water critters whatever, so I will be using either an air mattress which usually come a few inches narrow of a standard queen, or some memory foam. There is some thick memory foam pads at Bed Bath and Beyond that you can get cheap if you find them on the "AS IS" table. They are generally something someone bought and didn't like the firmness or softness so they returned. If you are interested in that route I can tell you the best way to get a good deal. Point is those will also squeeze in a bit too. You can get back some of the space the walls take up either way.

[lfrazer98]

Just sketched out my interior cabinets as viewed from the inside. This is my first draft and I want to maximize interior space. I don't think I went too big or too small with the cabinets and will have doors on the left and right side. Figured out a way to get some interior storage from behind my galley cabinets in the center. Also, left a center space if I do want a small TV and DVD player. The top cabinets and center areas will all be 18" deep. I want to put in a pull out wooden table that slides from within the bottom piece of wood, but will have to research that (kind of like a cutting board that slides out from underneath a counter). I would use this as an interior table for anything that I need, but want it to have a low profile and be invisible when not in use.



Just a question, do people put in false back to some of these interior cabinets to hide wiring, etc., for both the interior and galley area? Still in the planning stage for wiring, but figure the hub must be accessible from somewhere.

Night, everyone!

[Esteban]

Lauren you can run wiring in the galley bulkhead, the ceiling, side walls, and or through the cabinet dividers...if they have a hollow core. Or a false front.

[aggie79]

Lauren you can run wiring in the galley bulkhead, the ceiling, side walls, and or through the cabinet dividers...if they have a hollow core. Or a false front.

There are other options:

1. You can bundle the wires in split plastic wire loom, fasten it to the back of the cabinet and leave it exposed. In the picture below I have 12 volt and 120 volt wiring in the vertical split loom behind the a/c supply ducts. There is a false bottom installed that is not shown.



2. You can run your wiring underneath your teardrop in conduit.

[lfrazer98]

My father and I have discussed both options. I had a coworker of mine that is more electrically inclined visit today to discuss options with us. Thanks for the great pictures! We think we are going to put all the electrical in a tongue box then run wires in through the roof (along the front base)and divert them to the sides and galley as needed. I am just trying to visualize how it will all look, be connected, etc. Suggestions and comments appreciated!

More to come tomorrow! Have a great weekend!

[aggie79]

Lauren,

Depending upon how complex of an electrical system you have, it can look like a spaghetti factory explosion while your teardrop is under construction.





Don't panic, though. My teardrop had four overly complex subsystems - 12 volt, 120 volt, 12 volt trailer wiring, and the speaker and a/v wiring.

It's a lot easier than it looks. Take your time, make a sketch of your wire runs, label both ends of each wire (converter/source side and fixture side) with a unique designation, and mark that designation on your sketch.

When your putting your wiring through the framing, it is a good idea to photograph the wiring. It also helps to jot down some dimensions. This will minimize the chances of hitting the wires with fasteners.







Take care,
Tom

[lfrazer98]

Good idea! We will make sure to mark everything! I believe we are doing 3 separate systems: the trailer lights, 12V cabin, and 120, just in case there is an electrical hook up. Not planning on inverters/converters, and such. So, it should be easy. Famous last words, right?!
Anyway, I really appreciate your pictures and I think my father went through your build the past few days. I gave him a few to read up on and one was yours. Lots of photos make things a lot easier to comprehend.

We got the floor insulated, waiting on the stabilizer jacks to arrive tomorrow, then they will be bolted on and the floor will be sealed up.

As an aside, Any woody builders out there have any hints for the exterior skin on a 5 x 10 as far as the seam where the 2 pieces will meet? Thought I would look into finding a 4 x 12 sheet a plywood, just in case they existed. I actually only need 4 x 10 1/2... I really want woody sides and may just have to hand select my exterior skins carefully. Looking at birch because I like the grain.

Happy Monday, everyone!

[Esteban]

Good idea! We will make sure to mark everything! I believe we are doing 3 separate systems: the trailer lights, 12V cabin, and 120, just in case there is an electrical hook up. Not planning on inverters/converters, and such. So, it should be easy. Famous last words, right?!

Lauren and Dad, Consider using a Progressive Dynamics PD4045 convertor. It is used and well liked by many teardrop builders here at tnttt. Using it can make wiring a little easier to do. Here is one place with a good price: americanrvcompany.com/Progressive-Dynamics-PD4045KV-Mighty-Mini-AC-DC-Distribution-Panel-&-Inteli-Power-Converter-with-Charge-Wizard-45A

Have you chosen the 110 volt AC power inlet you will use? Amazon has a good price on one: amazon.com/Furrion-F30INR-PS-Round-Non-Metallic It has a LED light to show power is connected.

Take a look at Steve Fredericks gallery campingclassics.com/Gallery to see photos of woody campers where he beautifully "stretched" plywood to make camper sides bigger than 4x8. You may get an inspiration.

[aggie79]

As an aside, Any woody builders out there have any hints for the exterior skin on a 5 x 10 as far as the seam where the 2 pieces will meet? Thought I would look into finding a 4 x 12 sheet a plywood, just in case they existed. I actually only need 4 x 10 1/2... I really want woody sides and may just have to hand select my exterior skins carefully. Looking at birch because I like the grain.

I haven't seen too many woody teardrops, but on many canned ham trailers with metal siding the vertical seam was along the door jamb, usually along the jamb toward the rear of the camper. Having the vertical seam along the jamb minimizes the exposure of the joint.

[The Teardrop Nanny]

Hi Lauren,

Yes, do take the time to meticulously sort through the available plywood. You will be glad you did as you will be immortalizing that piece on your exterior (or interior) for a long time. I look at the interior of my Woody, ( 4 1/2 wide) darker woods with a combination of woods on the cabinets that are Craftsman style, and love 'em. My husband's trailer (4 wide) has a light interior and huge doorways, and he was very choosy about his wood. It made such a beautiful ceiling in his drop that it is hard to believe it is plywood! Also, you were wise to go with the Queen size, IMHO....especially if you have a sleeping companion with you.

If you want a tad bit extra storage space in your sleeping area.....put up a hook by your door opening to hold a set of keys or hang your coat on to find quickly in the middle of the night. A small wire basket above this can hold your personal items like a small flashlight, hairbrush, tissues, lip balm, etc. I also have a mesh water bottle holder with strap that I can hang from the hook or basket. There are many ways to add storage, but having slept in many different teardrops myself (I've been known to be a Teardrop Floozy ) I know NOT to put things directly above my head where I will be sleeping.

ttfn,
Joanie
The Teardrop Nanny