Wingloader's first build

[wingloader]

I've been working on this since February, but I've been so busy I haven't taken the time to do much besides read the posts and mooch ideas from you all (mostly Zach). I probably spent 40 hours reading the forum and learning Sketchup before I even bought my HF trailer.

I am using _Ryan_ 's profile and Zach's 5x10 over a 4x8 trailer idea.

Joe

[wingloader]

By this time, I'd already bought my Harbor Freight trailer, jack stand etc. I added a 10 foot piece of 2x2 steel tube (1/4 inch thick) to extend the tongue. I plan to build the trailer about 1 foot or so in front of the frame so I need a little wiggle room for turning and backing up.



I wired up the lights on the trailer "ghetto" style just so I could get the trailer registered and inspected. Check out the sweet bead! I am not a welder so I got lucky on this one.



Now, to load up my first batch of supplies!



At home in the Schmucker loading dock

[wingloader]

Since I'm making the camper large enough to hold a queen size mattress, I am building the deck up by the width of a 2x4 (Zach style) so that I won't have wheel wells in the sleeping compartment.

[wingloader]

The deck is on

[wingloader]

I mounted the side pieces so that I could get the profile cut out. I needed to cover the frame and the deck extension. If I just used a piece of 4x8 the interior would have been really short. I'm 6/4. That wouldn't do. I also extended the nose by 1.5'. This way, I can fit a queen size mattress in it plus a few extra inches because I am a tall dude. I also extended the aft by 10 inches so that the profile would come out the way I wanted it.

The front extension leaves a compartment below the deck that I am using for electrical stuff (like Zach).



As you can see, this took 3 pieces of wood. This added an extra level of complexity but it is worth the extra effort.

[wingloader]

After finishing the rough cut on the profile, I duplicated each of the three pieces EXACTLY.

[wingloader]

I flipped it on the side and gave it a coat of fence post paint. You can't really see it but I also wired the clearance lights. Not shown here, I put foam insulation in each of the rectangular spaced under the deck using the 2 inch or so blue foam that you use for insulating basement walls. I then sealed up any gaps with expanding foam just to keep moisture from getting in between the wood and the foam insulation. In retrospect, the foam insulation was probably a waste of money and effort. I don't plan on camping in cold weather.

[wingloader]

My plan was to build the walls first: outer layer, "framing/studs" and the inner skin. I would leave exactly a 1x2 width between the inner wall and studs so that I could 1) install the sidewalls, 2) put the headliner in, 3) sandwich the headliner with 1x2's and 4) put the outer skin over the entire thing. This would make certain that the structure was square and there would be no gaps on the inside between the walls and the headliner. I would have room in the space between the headliner and the outer skin for wiring. Also, when I put the top skin on, I wouldn't have to be accurate...just get it to overhang the sides and trim it flush.

Here is a "Visi-joe" diagram showing my basic intention. I have a detailed diagram in Sketchup, but this was quick to put together using MS Paint. It is not to scale but hopefully you get the idea.



In order to get the curved 1x2 surface, I tried to "finger" the board. This idea failed miserably.





Instead, I decided to frame up the vertical studs, put the inner skin on, then "fill" the gaps with custom cut/curved pieces of 1x2. This worked well.

[wingloader]

Here is what it looks like after installing the inner skin and putting the filler blocks in place

[wingloader]

Installing the galley "firewall"





Cutting the floor of the front compartment and the filler to connect it to the deck

[wingloader]

More work on the front compartment



Getting ready for the headliner. Test fitting a piece of luan

[wingloader]

Installing the first section of the headliner. Holy crap. Luan does not bend easily. I had to put a 2x4 on the inside, screw it in place and "draw" the end of the Luan into place. I ended up gluing cross supports to the end of the first sheet of luan. Then, I glued another cross support to the next sheet to go on. THEN, I glued and screwed the two sheets together by screwing the two cross members together. Otherwise, I would have NO chance of getting them to look like a continuous sheet on the inside. It would have been butt ugly for sure.









The end result from the inside. The white streaks aren't crack. They were filled by the mfg to make it smooth. It looks bad but it is actually smooth.



I added the piano hinge to the front compartment while waiting for glue to dry. Also, I was just sick of working with luan!!!

[wingloader]

Before putting the last sheet of luan on the top, I framed out some simple cabinets



I added supports to the back of the galley wall for the cabinet on the inside





Now to put the last sheet of luan on the top. I followed a similar process to join the sheets to make them have a smooth curve on the inside.







Now I can put a face on the inside cabinet. I used my biscuit joiner for this. Haven't had a need for that tool in a while!





I installed a piece of oak with a cross support to make sure it stayed straight. This will be the mount for the hurricane hinge.

[wingloader]

Starting the galley lid



I clamped the sides of the galley door to the wall with luan spacers to give clearance.

[wingloader]

Now that I have the door constructed, I put the "door stop" in place.



Skinning the hatch. I screwed the door into the exact position I wanted it so that when I put the outer skin on it, there would be no chance that I would put a twist into it. Fortunately, I was smart enough to screw it in place from the outside...