Door clousers, locks, handles, ect

[KCStudly]

I think mine are similar, but a different brand. I'd have to look back thru my build thread to jog my memory.

I ordered mine direct from the "manufacturer" (importer), specified the version for thick doors, and keyed alike. My doors will end up at 1-3/4 thk (5 mm or 3/16 inner ply, 1-1/2 foam, and I am guessing that the canvas and paint outer skin will add about 1/16 inch). They had a fleet option that would have a master key, but they were universally the same. I wanted more security than that, so they agreed to select two sets that were of the same key code (there are only so many variations). By going direct I paid quite a bit more than a lot of the online sources, but I got what I wanted. I did have to wait for "the shipment to arrive" (which is what clued me off to the fact that they were farming them out to Asia, and the screws weren't long enough to suit the listed wall thickness for the extra thick wall version (probably put the std wall thickness screw set in with the thick wall latches), but the bolt shaft and latch release levers are longer to suit the thicker doors.

Regarding hasps, padlocks, and other external hardware; you don't want to use anything that can accidentally, unintentionally, or maliciously become latched from the outside while you are inside. Safety first.

[RandyG]

The problem I see with just using an outside only locking devise is, what if someone wants to play a joke or rob you by locking you in your own trailer while you sleep. Maybe not such a problem in a crowded camp ground but I'm losing my faith in humanity little by little, and I haven't a lick of trust for strangers. I don't mean to sound paranoid

[GPW]

RG, You put the lock in the loop ,lock it... nobody can play any jokes ... Anybody who would do such a thing needs a good whomping...

However, we will be using a regular door lockset... Yet to be found in my collection of house parts ... Had a whole bag of em’ around here .... somewhere ?

[kudzu]

RG, You put the lock in the loop ,lock it... nobody can play any jokes ... Anybody who would do such a thing needs a good whomping...

Totally agree with you on the whomping part. Unfortunately, someone can still lock you in even if you locked a padlock into the loop. All they need is good wire. Heck, a coat hanger might work. It seems unlikely one would try but it's something to consider. However, if you found the right length, double hinged hasp you may be able to fold it to the inside of the camper & away from temptation.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-3-i ... c7Qe5xQBq4

Just a thought.

[GPW]

Just a thought ... somebody trying something like that could get SHOT !!! We old folks don’t fool around ..!!!

Ps. and it’s not like we couldn’t get out in an emergency ... with a steak knife ...

[atahoekid]

A bear could also be handy at a moment like that. Just need a good swipe of the paw. And I'm not just picking on Foamies. Fiberglass and thin gauge aluminum would suffer the same way.

I understand thrifty and frugal and I have faith in most of mankind but I like my door lock with interior handle and interior lock lever. I wanted peace of mind.

[wagondude]

A second loop could be mounted to lock the hasp in the open position. But a proper lock/latch is the better way to go. Thrifty is one thing, cheap is another where safety is concerned. I would save money somewhere else.

[GPW]

... and a dead bolt .

For us, the hasp and lock is great for our little Foamie #1 , as it’s now been relegated to towing all the stuff we don’t want to load up in the FS ... But for the "Living Quarters" it will have to be a real door lockset... whether home or RV style ... It has been decreed "by you know who "... fait accompli ...

[planovet]

What about a padlock and a hasp ?

That is what I used on my galley hatch

[working on it]

Though not a foamie, my Plywood only trailer was built with secure doors that may be applicable to all (unconventional appearing) trailers. Not pretty, but functional. The 3/4" thick plywood walls and doors (cutouts from the wall) are each secured with dual slide-action bolts and padlocks, with triple hinges.

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All the door locks and hinged are secured with a combination of carriage bolts/security bolts/locking nuts where none can be easily removed or pulled loose from the outside. When inside the trailer at night, all latches can be padlocked open, and I (or my wife) can use the inside drop-bar latches to secure the doors. The 3/4" oak dowel is a tight fit in the slots and cannot be loosened from the outside, and the force required to shear it is significant. If I were to do another build (of course, another unconventional one), I would probably use these latches on both sides of each door. I couldn't find any like these at the time, now's too late.

fliplatch.jpg (7.99 KiB) Viewed 916 times

[working on it]

I hasten to add that , if my wife couldn't unbar the door, or someone managed to lock the doors from outside, then there's always the inside-cabin toolset:

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[working on it]

I forgot, one final tool, as a final response:

RUGER_KP89dc.gif (40.94 KiB) Viewed 929 times

UPDATE: for my birthday, prior to first camp on 9/27/13, I was given this:

gerber-machete-gator_1.jpg (30.68 KiB) Viewed 722 times

It'll take the place of the folding saw, and nestle nicely beside the mattress. I'll carry it on camp-outs to deter the encroachment of kudzu, or other, more mobile lifeforms!

[KCStudly]

Nice piece.

[Bogo]

I've done many of them and can't imagine trying to mount a door knob without the proper hole saws.

I used a hand drill, coping saw, and some gouges to do the first few I did. I graduated to using a power drill, saber saw, and a power rasp for a bunch more years. I've only used the proper doorknob hole saws for the past three decades... You make do with what you got.