Pre-gluing outside and inside canvas?

[GPW]

NICE !!!

[Johnny Swank]

Speaking of hatches and roofs, I ended up using 2 layers or 1/2" foam, one layer at a time, glued together with Glidden Gripper. Works great, and no kerfing!

The hatch is proving to be more "interesting". Anyone have any luck with using a heat gun to help permanently set the curve of the foam. I'm using the 2" foam leftover from the shelves (oh yeah, all the shelves/ bulkheads are 2" foam instead of plywood!) to match the curve of the hatch, then attaching spars to those to form the hatch frame to be covered with 2 layers of 1/2 foam. The foam is pulling the forms upward and not keeping their shape. Worst case scenerio is that I use some plywood and make a new hatch frame, but I'd like to give this one more shot before doing so.

[eaglesdare]

how is that glidden gripper working? your camper looks great!

[atahoekid]

The trailer looks real good!! I avoided the hatch just because I thought it would be problematic. I went with double wide doors in the back instead. Pretty simple and works well

[Johnny Swank]

The Glidden Gripper is freakin awesome. Once it dries, ain't nothing moving. Sticks well to foam without having to sand.

I'm going to dig my heat gun out of our storage unit today and give it a shot. I'm guessing holding it about 3-4 inches away from the foam and constantly moving it around should work ok to release the skin tension and help it stay put on those curves better. Right now I've screwed the first layer of foam to the frame AND the walls, so the shape is fine, but I'll obviously need to unscrew it from the walls to make it operable. I'll probably start working from the inside, then move to the outside for this first layer (foam is also glued to the frame with gripper, so pulling it off will likely destroy the foam), The second layer I'll just do everything from the outside Should't take (in theory) much time to heat it up enough to remove that surface tension so it'll bend.

[GPW]

JS, the trick is to get the foam up to 190F on both upper and lower surfaces ... (2 heat guns) ... Then it will bend easily without cracking and will actually hold that if you hold it in that shape till it cools ... Gotta’ watch those heat guns , easy to burn/melt the surface , keep it Moving ... heat gradually and carefully , you cajn feel when the foam starts to " give” .... some folks bend foam with hot water from the kettle ... that works too ... best done outside ...

Thanks for the report on the Gripper ...

[atahoekid]

Good Luck and I recommend trying the heat gun method where you can work comfortably and with a steady hand. I tried it but I wasn't patient enough and working in an awkward position made me even less patient. I ended up melting the foam piece I tried. Just a thought (afterthought in my case). Would wetting the surface while using the heat gun make the heat more even (steam) or would it just make it take even longer and make the job harder?

[Wobbly Wheels]

Would wetting the surface while using the heat gun make the heat more even (steam) or would it just make it take even longer and make the job harder?

As I read that, it occurred to me that one of those steamers you use for clothes might be the ticket: the steam can't get any hotter than 100 degrees C and it should avoid the 'point' heating of a heat gun held in one place a little too too long. I've never used one so I don't know for sure...

[GPW]

That steamer is certainly worth a try eh !!!

[atahoekid]

100 degrees C = 212 degrees F, so if foams starts bending at 190 degrees F, you should be able to make some headway with it. HMMMM , who's gonna be the guinea pig for this experiment?

[pete42]

don't go away folks we have more to come.............

just when I think; ok they have done it this and they have done it that way,

you guys & Gals come up with something new.

"The Glidden Gripper is freakin awesome".............."one of those steamers you use for clothes might be the ticket"

and the beat goes on..............

you guys keep thinking and I'll keep reading.

pete

[Wobbly Wheels]

100 degrees C = 212 degrees F

Hehe...sometimes I forget we speak a bit of a different language here.

Pete - that's the fun of it: solving problems without any of the limitations we all know so well from using 'regular' materials. Most of the stuff that gets kicked around here has already been figured out in wood and metal.

[atahoekid]

100 degrees C = 212 degrees F

Hehe...sometimes I forget we speak a bit of a different language here.

No worries, the numbers you posted actually made me think. I retrieved the conversion from the dusty cobwebs of my skull and realized that steam could work since it is higher than the 190 degrees F that GPW says will start bending the foam.

[Johnny Swank]

Let's add another variable. What about using a soaked towel on top of the foam, then hitting it with the heat gun until you hit steam temps? Seems like that would smooth out the temp variation some and add a little bit of a cushion from the direct heat of the gun. What the hell, I'll try it. I can only hit the foam from one side at a time anyway, so it's worth a shot.

[atahoekid]

Johnny,

You may be onto something here. I had trouble with my attempt since I was using a heat gun directly on the foam and I lack patience. Good Luck, let us know how the trials go...