#1

[Wolffarmer]

National Geographic would not lie

I could not get the Youtube to embed

You learning all kinds of things today. Mail order livestock and potato fudge. Oh, just remembered this.

Idaho State unofficial candy bar

Randy

[ghcoe]

YUP! Shipped live or in eggs.......

Although, I am purchasing mine from a nearby farm store.

[GPW]

Never knew that ... My neighbor (and band member) who raises Chickens , just get the chicks at the feed store... (city boys)

That makes me remember Easter and all those multi colored chicks ... I don’t think they do that anymore ... "PETA might have a cow”

[KCStudly]

Poor cow.

[GPW]

Not to get off topic ... ... What about that Standy' ... 16’ ... a Foamie’ perhaps ??? pretty easy to do ... mine’s 13’ + , could have easily made it longer...Plenty of room inside ...

[atahoekid]

That does sound interesting. I know I need to build another one, I know as my wife and I go out on longer adventures she has talked about a larger foamie. 16 foot long standy sounds about right. Gotta engineer in a toilet and therefore black water tank but should be doable. Maybe a shower too. For right now and for the limited time we can take off, the Road Foamie works just fine... Look forward to seeing your design and build of that one....

[ghcoe]

Still in the developing stages, but this is what I have so far.

I first had to come up with what we really wanted in a trailer.

1. We wanted something small, easy to tow and get into small camp sites. It's a foamie, so it should be light and easy to tow. Body is 7 feet wide so should fit nicely behind tow vehicle. Height is 6 feet from floor to ceiling, again should fit nicely behind TV.
2. We wanted a bed that was set up for full time use and not a convert a bed. We are just tired of converting sitting areas and sleeping on small foam pads. Also we did not want to be cramped in bed, so a Queen sized mattress was in order of course. The logical place was the front to allow for the aerodynamics for the front. Bed is at bed height to allow for next.
3. We wanted good storage for common items for trips. Good storage areas under bed with access from both sides as well as inside. Also, good sized closet in bathroom with cloths hamper under it.
4. We wanted a common area. Since we wanted to stay small and have a full sized bed we had to compromise on the common area. The dinette will serve as the common area. For two people this will be fine. For six it will be a bit crowded.
5. We wanted the ability to sleep extras just in case. The dinette will convert to a full sized bed and another full sized bed will store up against the ceiling. Don't worry, this area will be beefed up some not just foam. I have a great plan that the Europeans use in some of their plans.
6. We wanted a bathroom. Just in case we want to boondock. A lot easier to have a bathroom with shower if your not on the system.
7. Of course heat, A/C, water storage, cooking areas.

I took designs I found I liked from other trailers.

I like the old Burros and the newer Casita trailers http://www.casitatraveltrailers.com/.
I also like the European designs. They are just better at design, inside and out. Their models are more car friendly too http://www.buerstner.com/int/caravans.html.

I will probably be building this one on a EZ loader boat trailer. I like the EZ because it is easy to move the axle back and forth on the frame. I am hoping to drop the hallway down up to 6" to allow for more head space in the trailer as well.

Well there it is as it is now.

Larger Trailer

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[wagondude]

So if I am looking at your plan right, your door is street side? Not a problem boondocking, but in a developed camp, you would be stepping out into your neighbor's yard. It would also make loading/unloading dangerous if you were not parked in a driveway.

[ghcoe]

No, the plans are flipped. I caught that too, just have not gotten around to reversing it.

[ghcoe]

Worked on the trailer a bit today. Went ahead and put a threshold in. I used a 1"x2" flashing piece cut to be 1/2" wider the threshold. I made it slightly wider because I want to slide each end up under the walls. first I had to cut a groove for the flashing to fit into on each side. I used my sharpened putty knife to make the cuts.

Groove

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Then I applied Gripper to the threshold. I made sure to get it heavy on each end where the flashing will slide under/behind the wall. This is to make sure I get a good water tight seal there. I also painted the back side of the flashing so I have a Gripper to Gripper bond.

Gripper for glue

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Then I slid the flashing behind/under the wall on one side and then slid it back under the other side by a 1/4".

Sliding in the flashing

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Then to clamp and wait. It is still a little cool here so I will give it a few days to dry.

After this I will be adding the door frame and then I will add a tapered piece of plastic to shed water to the outside edge before adding the door.

[Mary C]

You are moving right along. Good work. I like the way you glued the metal, but you know I am not a friend of GG I would have used the TBII.

Mary C.

[ghcoe]

You are moving right along. Good work. I like the way you glued the metal, but you know I am not a friend of GG I would have used the TBII.

Mary C.

No Gorilla Glue here. Just Gripper paint. I do not think that TBII would glue to metal too well.

[GPW]

Having used both , the Gripper is Good for some things ^ and not others , like attaching canvas (TB2 is better) ... The thing is to use the right glue for the right job ...

[Jim91303]

Up date on build !!

[ghcoe]

Sorry, got the flu which lead to pneumonia. Put me down two weeks and now I am scrambling to get things done here with plants I ordered, getting the garden ready, chicken coop to finish aaaaaaahhhh.....! I am not expecting any big progress till after mid June at this time. But thanks for the interest. I will update when things get moving again.