Let’s talk about Doors ....

[ghcoe]

Ps . I could see using Masonite for the interior facing on the door frame not only as a Trim feature, but a place to attach the gasket..

Yes, I have thought of it that way too. Might be better because it would protect the masonite from weather extreems.
Left is view cross section from front. Right is cross section from top.

[GPW]

Exactly !!!

[aggie79]

In addition to cost versus time, I'll add another factor to consider - aesthetics. I buillt my doors because I wanted them to look a cetain way.























When you add up the cost of the framing, skins, trim, windows, hinges, and locksets, most often you'll end up spending more dollars than if you bought pre-built doors. And, you have to be fairly precise or they will leak. While I like the looks of a custom door, I will probably purchase doors for my second build.

[atahoekid]

I too tried my hand at custom building my doors and I think they were the hardest part of the build to get right. Between building them (took two tries) and then hanging them right, they were a headache.

Yes, I have thought of it that way too. Might be better because it would protect the masonite from weather extreems.
Left is view cross section from front. Right is cross section from top.
[/quote]

That's the basic door I built in terms of how it seals, but I have a layer of ply sandwiched by foam. Still weighs too much IMO. Your method will be much lighter. Hopefully it seals well. Haven't been tested yet!!!

[ghcoe]

Hopefully it seals well. Haven't been tested yet!!!

Not yet. I think it would be quite light. I have not been able to play with any foam yet, but am excited about starting a foamy. I think it is right up my alley....

I really like the look of the Grasshopper. I think it will be a great foamy canidate especially with nice rounded edges.

[KCStudly]

I fully admit that I am not building for ultimate light weight. However, my doors are cedar 1x2 framed with cedar radiused corner blocking and foam infill. I even had to add some extra wood to accommodate the recessed flush mount windows, and used solid 2x fir for the latch blocking. And yet, my unskinned doors are still very light weight. I can lift them both with one finger. I really don't see the need to skimp on the perimeter frame and risk having leaks (other than the fact that it is a lot of detail work). I'm a pretty big guy and made my doors fairly wide to make getting in and out as easy as possible, too.

[atahoekid]

I really like the look of the Grasshopper. I think it will be a great foamy canidate especially with nice rounded edges.

I started thining that way too. I love the Grasshopper look but it evolved (you can read that as got longer and wider) into the Road Foamie. The angular edges and corners might make things easier to assemble. Curving the foam is proving to be something of an issue. I kerfed mine and used 2 plies instead of one thicker piece. An angular cut would be easier but you lose some interior space that way. Just my couple of cents.

BTW, welcome to the fun.

[atahoekid]

I fully admit that I am not building for ultimate light weight. However, my doors are cedar 1x2 framed with cedar radiused corner blocking and foam infill. I even had to add some extra wood to accommodate the recessed flush mount windows, and used solid 2x fir for the latch blocking. And yet, my unskinned doors are still very light weight. I can lift them both with one finger. I really don't see the need to skimp on the perimeter frame and risk having leaks (other than the fact that it is a lot of detail work). I'm a pretty big guy and made my doors fairly wide to make getting in and out as easy as possible, too.

Wish I had built my doors that way. My doors weigh a TON. Compared to everything else they are way out of weight proportionately to their size. If I have to rebuild doors. (a possibility), I'm building like you did... You know the whole sincerest form of flattery thing ...

[KCStudly]

Thanks for the vote of confidence Mel (ATK). I'm fairly confident, but let's wait until I get them on the road and out in the weather before we commit to anything (...though I am committed...or should be ).

[GPW]

Just talking about doors , we see some people use the store bought doors .... That sure is a quick , but pricy, solution ... removing a great deal of time and work from a foamie build ... guess it’s not so bad if you only need one ... Aside from the initial price of the trailer itself , seems the most expense in a build is the windows and doors , but it really does assure a quicker and more professional “looking” build .... All in what we need and can afford ... What kind of doors are available ... ? TD doors or Big RV style doors ? Anybody know a good source?
Doors are tricky to make , but now with the CNC machine in the picture , we may have to give that a go and see what happens ...

[linuxmanxxx]

The real test with doors would be pulling around 55 in pouring rain and see if they leak. The time spent on them and materials generally isn't cheaper for most builders.

[M C Toyer]

I realize there's some limitations due to wall thickess but why do the majority of designs use doors that mount flush with the outside?

It seems to me there are potential problems with leakage around the t-molding because the actual weather strippping or seal is exposed directly to driving wind and rain or roof runoff when parked. I know most use some type of drip edge over the door and in front of the leading edge/hinge. Does that fully solve the problem?

Does the latch tension needed to make the weatherstrip / seal work properly cause warpage of the door and uneven sealing?

Just curious as to other alternatives.

M C

[GPW]

MC , doors , whilst appearing simple , in reality are pretty tricky to get right .... and it requires the construction be done more precisely that most any other part of a trailer build ... Here’s how I did mine ... It requires a proper thickness gasket and a minimum pressure all around for a good seal .... Any drip edge helps a lot ... as one would expect ... just like everybody else’s done ...
One point , We try to make the bottom frame of any door slope down and out , so any water that gets in will drain easily ... before it gets to soak the gaskets ...

[M C Toyer]

GPW -

Thanks and I did note in your earlier illustation a few posts above that you did not rely on the exterior t-molding for a seal.

Other examples here and in other threads show both the t-molding on the exterior and interior stops as well (as in Tom's illustration).

Your design with sloping sill would be very similar to residential and commercial entry door construction with the exception most residential doos open inward. It would also be similar to storm door construction.

Another question; I note your design and most others have the hinge(s), whether piano or separate style, face mounted on the door and sidewall. Why that method rather than mounted to the door and sideall edge as a standard butt hinge? Is it because you have a stronger structure to hold the screws? I realize that some cabinet and refrigerator type hinges have to be mounted externally.

Can hurricane type hinges be mounted as a butt hinge or does their range of motion limit them to surface mount only?

M C

[GPW]

This may sound Odd , but when I designed my House , made all the doors european style , outward opening , actually to save space inside ... after 12 years , I Like this arrangement ... only thing is , my studio door which stays open most of the year suffers from weather damage , a normal door not made to be Out in the weather ... apparently ... having to change that one soon ...

It would seem easier to mount the hinges on the door outer face than the standard residential mounting , involving recesses routed in the door & frame for the hinges ... probably why most everybody does it this way on their builds ...