Thrifty Alternatives ..Building Foam Campers

Canvas covered foamies (Thrifty Alternatives...)

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Postby Wolffarmer » Sun Jan 01, 2012 11:36 am

eaglesdare wrote:nope no ironing here from this ole gal. LOL if i forget to get the clothes out of the dryer right away, i just rewash and redry. if it has to get ironed , it gets thrown away. :roll:


I am an advocate for the crinkle look.

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Postby StPatron » Sun Jan 01, 2012 3:47 pm

Hi everyone. I've been reading this thread with interest, absorbing the information. I have some concerns about total build weight and highway blow-over risk and introduced that question on a recent thread of Becky's. (Oldragbaggers). So... if you're ears have been burning, this explains it. :lol:

http://www.tnttt.com/viewtopic.php?t=47980&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0

Be sure and read Corwin's physics explanation. Some great info in that thread in case you missed it.

In the interest of safety.... I'd be interested in your thoughts, especially with regard to a standy design. I "think" the standard teardrop profile would be safe, it's the larger designs that appear to be pushing the safety threshold limits. Mike's build, for example, has me somewhat anxious.
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Postby GPW » Sun Jan 01, 2012 4:09 pm

Gary , with the lighter weight, I think we’d all be tempted to carry even More gear (ballast) keeping the weight low on the trailer ... and there’s always the 500lb. of Beer.... :lol:

Sometimes it just may not be the best idea to travel in extremely windy weather... :roll:

Surprisingly , my cabin under construction had weathered several very windy storms , up on saw horses , empty , and yet didn’t blow over... :thumbsup: I think rounded edges help a Lot ... Square edges induce drag producing vortices ... That may be the problem with those Big TTs that blow over... Just a Box in the Wind !!! :o
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Postby mikeschn » Sun Jan 01, 2012 4:13 pm

StPatrón wrote: Mike's build, for example, has me somewhat anxious.


NOW you tell me! :embarassed:

How many cases of beer do I need to keep it from blowing over when a truck passes me on the highway?

All the weight will be concentrated on the floor and the chassis. Once it's done I'll check the weight. Then if I need to bump the weight up to validate it, I've got plenty of room under the bed.

Once it's validated, I can start removing weight, and make sure it remains stable.

Mike...
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Postby eaglesdare » Sun Jan 01, 2012 4:34 pm

ut oh here we go again. but see, this is why i use the cinch straps, to hold the foamie onto the frame.
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Postby swampjeep » Sun Jan 01, 2012 4:36 pm

GPW wrote:Bear ..... Big fuzzy trailer destroyers...
Bare ..... Naked ...
Behr .... Paint Company
Barre ... Rosanne !!!

:lol:

Eagle , I just can’t rest till you iron those bubbles ... which BTW I don’t think those are “thermal affected “ , but more cinch strap affected ... It’s going to take a lot of convincing to get me off the idea of canvas and paint ... which has been Proven over many years and still remains (AFAIK) the Thrifty alternative...

:thinking:


so where does "bear or bare" with me fall in this LOL

Glen, I think your thoughts on thrifty are right on, and if you are going for ultimate cheap the canvas/paint will probably win. But I like the idea of this styroplast or what ever it's called from hotwire... when compared to other tear builds, is it really that expensive? if one were going for a build for strong, light, durable, long lasting, low maintance... camparative to a tear with a gelcoat, or even alum. skin, I think the cost would still be cheaper, and results may be better and esier. I really wish I was ready to build my "pod". I'd definately do more research on this, and will be watching it if someone does anything with it.
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Postby StPatron » Sun Jan 01, 2012 4:37 pm

GPW wrote: ... and there’s always the 500lb. of Beer.... :lol:

Hmmm, I just knew that was coming. :lol:

GPW wrote:Sometimes it just may not be the best idea to travel in extremely windy weather...

Couldn't agree more. But, that's not the scenario that is of concern. The conditions in my example are run-of-the-mill actual driving conditions that are commonly known to induce sway and other problems with heavier trailers. When you drastically reduce the weight while still providing a large surface "kite" that receives the blunt of the shear force.... your blow-over risk escalates. That's the path we're headed down as we strive to create the feather weight trailer IN COMBINATION WITH a generously sized cabin.

I thought I was invincible when I was younger.. but, nowadays I'm not gonna put full faith in "I don't think it will", WAG's or radiused edges saving my bacon. Or, the bacon of someone following me. Or, a passenger in my vehicle.

What's your total cabin weight? Do you think it's elevated position on the sawhorses contributed a positive or negative effect to its stability?

What is the largest side profile "surface area to build weight" you consider to be safe.. before the critical blow-over limit is reached? There is a limit you'd agree, right?
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Postby bonnie » Sun Jan 01, 2012 4:50 pm

Not an engineer. Don't pretend to be one. My question would not be how light can we build before the thing blows over, but rather, what can we do to make the result more aerodynamic? The force to move a 500ish# trailer upside down would be considerable. While a risk, how much of one is it, really?

Bonnie

Who just spent way too long nosing around the Hotwire Foam sight. :)
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Postby GPW » Sun Jan 01, 2012 5:52 pm

Sorry Gary , I really don’t have any concrete facts to give you ... Just thinking wider/shorter is better , keep all the weight low, round the edges... Seems a Tall narrow trailer would likely be more affected... naturally .. (nothing new there ).. and there is always a limit .. we just haven’t found it yet ...

On the other hand we’ve seen some pretty tall narrow CTs on the road ... never heard of one of those blowing over... yet ... Guess a strong enough wind would blow anything over... But as previously stated , by the time we get the bed, coolers, kitchen stuff , personals , fishing gear , etc. etc. in there I’m sure they won’t be Ultralight any longer ... They just wont be AS Heavy as a conventional TD ... Which BTW , never heard any of those blowing over either ... even the light ones...

Probably best leave the calculations for Safety up to a real Engineer... otherwise we’d be just guessing ...

Is there an Engineer in the house ???

Still not the best idea to travel in bad weather ... You could always just pull over somewhere safe if the conditions got that bad ... always someplace to pullover that would block the wind, maybe on the downwind side of a building ... cept’ maybe a desert ... Driving through the mountains , we noticed the wind was really bad only at the tops of hills , the valleys seemed pretty calm ... er ...


I have No idea why mine didn’t get blown off the horses?? Luck maybe ???


Bonnie , Just use more foam and round it well ... Easy to do ... or maybe build a design that’s already aerodynamic ... like the FoamStream , an idea i’ve not yet abandoned ... :thinking:
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Postby StPatron » Sun Jan 01, 2012 7:43 pm

Thanks for your thoughts and allowing me to post my questions here, GPW.

If I'm able to obtain some factual information I'll be sure and pass it along.
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Postby atahoekid » Sun Jan 01, 2012 11:26 pm

eaglesdare wrote:if one uses this stuff nezmo speaks of, do you still cover in canvas? or is this stuff put straight on the foam and your done?


Louella,

I looked at this a while back and I was thinking of using the foam coat with the bounce additive with a fabric mesh underneath. I had planned on building it up fairly thick so I was going to end up purchasing a fairly large amount which meant too many $$$. As I am rethinking and revisiting the HWFF products I may need to recalculate the expense using a thinner coat. Since I still have some product left, I may run some tests using the screening mesh as the fabric underneath. I do know the fabric mesh with the foam coat leaves a very nice and smooth surface. Not sure how it would work with the canvas but since I'm in testing mode, I may throw that in just for kicks.
Mel

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The Road Foamie Build Thread: viewtopic.php?t=45698
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Postby linuxmanxxx » Mon Jan 02, 2012 2:00 am

I dug around this outfit's site and found the pricing for what looks to be their most promising product and was posted on the polystyrene and bedliner thread so I'm posting it here. $132 for 2 gallons and is hard and flexible turning into a plastic coating.

linuxmanxxx wrote:If these are reasonably priced and not break the bank figures, this would by far be the best method of any we have come up with for making it look good and more of a permanent seriously long life build and still nothing like the cost of a wood based version. Found the store finally 2 gallon kit of the FR-Lite which would be perfect for using is 132 and creates a hard FLEXIBLE plastic surface over all the surface types we use on foamys and honestly if this works like it says putting it over the fiberglass screen and forget the cloth would make for a hell of a strong light flexible build and not too damaging to the wallet and then you could use a cloth/glue for the inside and keep the cost down still. A friggin plastic foamy how cool is that :lol:
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Postby GPW » Mon Jan 02, 2012 6:36 am

St.P , you’re most Welcome to post here anytime .... We really do appreciate Everyone’s ideas, opinions and experiences !!! ... :thumbsup: With so many differing views to consider , we can all work this Foamie thing through and develop a really Practical and enjoyable camper ... That most anyone can build, afford, and most any car can tow ... a simple Goal , approached many different ways ... 8)

With everyone testing and sharing their results , surely we’ll find something that works very well ... and won’t break the piggy bank ... :thinking: Isn’t the Internet wonderful .... :D
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RE: Some Comments On Coatings And Wind

Postby mezmo » Tue Jan 03, 2012 1:09 am

Since I sorta stirred the pot a little with the HWFF coatings postings
I thought I'd add a comment or two.

My reason for looking more into these other exterior coatings is that I was
wondering on the strength of the TBII&III and canvas as an outer skin - i.e.
as a structural feature, since one of our premises here is that 'the strength
is in the skins' and the sum of the components working together is also
'the strength'.

I realize and understand that this old canvas/glue/paint technology
application has been used successfully for a very long time, but the main
application of it - to my understanding - was on top/over another structural
surface -e.g. boards a/o plywood/Masonite etc., so that it was more of a
protective skin/coating as opposed to a "structural" component.

I was concerned with the puncturability, durability and longevity of the
exterior and its function as a structural element. The other aspect I was
concerned about was the effect that heat had on the TBII&III - it's apparently
thermally affected some at relatively low temperatures that could come
about through 'normal' sun exposure. [I'm in SC and the summer sun here
is brutal - I'm sure other southern and western states must be the same.]

Fiberglass and epoxy become rigid when applied together over the foam.
Since I have no direct experience with it yet, my understanding [from the
various posts] of the TBII&III over fabric is that it is not that rigid [or as
rigid as fiberglass and epoxy]. And as a result of surface heating, it
softens, or can soften or perhaps separate from the foam core. So I was
looking for some other exterior coating that'd provide more rigidity,
strength,durability and longevity etc., and not separate from the foam.

Since the HWFF products [I'm sure there must be other manufacturers
too] are made for use on/with foam it seemed reasonable to check them
out more to see if they could be beneficial for our Foamie purposes. It
appears that they very well could be. I'll be awaiting the results from
mel's/atahoekid's test strips using the various HWFF samples he had. It
also seems that Steve/linuxmanxxx has also come across another
company/source for possible application on our Foamies - the Polygem
epoxies - namely the flexible ones. I would plan to use a 'fabric'
reinforcement with the coating used unless it says specifically that it
is unnecessary.

And again, another consideration is the COST. Thrifty is good, but part of
that to me, has to also consider any possibility of extra benefits that the
extra cost of these alternate [from TBII&III] exterior coatings provide.
They may be worth it. But overall, I think there's room for all methods
here - as long as they meet the individual builders needs/criteria.

Now: About concerns of the lightweight Foamies blowing over, or their
bodies being blown off their frames by high winds. For some unknown
reason, that hasn't been a big concern to me, but I understand the
concerns others have raised. As Gary/St. Patron said, Corwin's post on
it [can't recall which thread at the moment] pretty much would allay for
me any concerns about being blown over. Louella/eaglesdare's concerns
about the body being separated from the frame should be taken care of
by our 'sock effect". If you overlap the fabric and glue/paint/epoxy that
covers the sides onto the underneath of the floor several inches - I'd
guess 6-8in would be reasonable, and especially if you reinforce that 'joint'
with extra fabric or fiberglass cloth/tape and glue/paint/epoxy - whatever
you're using - that should take care of it. [Don't forget to also do that
internally as well.] I'm a fan of reasonable redundancy, so if it will give
additional peace of mind, why not laminate in on the top level of the
exterior fabric some of those flat woven straps that come with the hooks
and ratchet set ups that are used to secure cargo/loads you carry.
They're reasonably priced and available. The ends could be mechanically
attached, as well, to the underneath of the frame. This way they'd be
permanently installed and they wouldn't subject the Foamie body to any
chaffing or compression stresses that any inadvertent over-tightening
would produce.

I guess what it boils down to for me is that it appears [I have to say that
as I haven't finished a design yet or started in on a build yet.] Foamies,
as originally conceived, and/or with whatever additional elements added,
seem to be the most economical and simplesrt way to build a TD/TTT.
But, doing so still entails investments of time, materials and mental
processes. I just want to get the best result possible for my efforts
and money when the time comes. Too much maintenance or short
'product' life won't satisfy my aims when building one. Therefore the
further look into the HWFF exterior coatings, especially for the use on
the "larger" TTT type of Foamie.


Cheers,
Norm/mezmo
Last edited by mezmo on Tue Jan 03, 2012 1:18 am, edited 2 times in total.
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RE: Some Comments On Coatings And Wind

Postby mezmo » Tue Jan 03, 2012 1:11 am

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