HF Bearings Again

[Joseph]

Has anyone ever successfully removed the inside bearings from a set of HF hubs? I think they should just tap out but they appear to be glued in.

I want to be sure I've got all the old GP grease out before I re-pack them with synthetic.

Thanks,

Joseph

[Geron]

Has anyone ever successfully removed the inside bearings from a set of HF hubs? I think they should just tap out but they appear to be glued in.

I want to be sure I've got all the old GP grease out before I re-pack them with synthetic.

Thanks,

Joseph

Yup, several times. I have three of their trailers. You must be talking about the bearing race or the grease seal (Been a while since I did it) . You're probably trying to get the grease seal out. The bearing should just fall out once the seal is removed. You'll probably destroy the seal getting it out. I use a big screwdriver and pry it out. Slip the screwdriver blade under one side under the part that seals and push down on the screwdriver. Move it to the other side and push down again. Careful not the scratch the hub. The seals can be a booger to get out if they've been there a while. If the rear bearing race is ok just leave it alone. Sometimes you have to use a punch to loosen the grease seal. They bend rather easily if you have a BIG HAMMER. If you have to just bend the heck out of it to loosen it up.


Use a large socket or piece of galvanized pipe that is the same size as the seal to gently knock the new one back in once the cleaning is done.

HTH's

[Joseph]

You're probably trying to get the grease seal out. The bearing should just fall out once the seal is removed.

Well, if removing the grease seal allows the bearing to fall out, it sounds like that's what I need to do. So I guess my next question is, since pulling the grease seal tends to trash it, where do I get a replacement?

Thanks,

Joseph

[TonyCooper]

You probably need to remove the race as well. It is pressed into the hub and can be tapped out with a chisel or large screwdrvier and hammer. I use the old race to seat the new one whenever I need to change the bearing sets.

I have not disassembled and repacked my HF trailer hubs yet.

[steve wolverton]

I find that a slide hammer works great for this stuff. If you don't have one, you might should consider it. I have a cheap version (The Silver Slapper) and it has attachments for different jobs. You can do body work with them (pulling dents), remove bearings, impress the ladies, etc.

Steve

[asianflava]

I find that a slide hammer works great for this stuff. If you don't have one, you might should consider it. I have a cheap version (The Silver Slapper) and it has attachments for different jobs. You can do body work with them (pulling dents), remove bearings, impress the ladies, etc.

Steve

It slices, it dices, it even .....

Joseph
Once you get the bearings and races cleaned, inspect them for scratches, pitting or abnormal wear. If it all looks cool, then just repack them, install new grease seals, and reassemble. If you don't HAVE to remove the bearing races, I wouldn't bother, it can be a royal pain. Also be careful not to tighten the castellated nut too tightly.

[Geron]

You're probably trying to get the grease seal out. The bearing should just fall out once the seal is removed.

Well, if removing the grease seal allows the bearing to fall out, it sounds like that's what I need to do. So I guess my next question is, since pulling the grease seal tends to trash it, where do I get a replacement?

Thanks,

Joseph

Any auto parts store. Just take what's left of the old one in for a match. If everything looks good I'd leave the bearing race seated. Just wash good with Kerosene - safer than gas . If the bearing needs replacing do it in sets races/bearings and do both inside and outside. About the "slotted" nut. Tighten down first with a wrench to make sure everything is seated well. Back off the nut and hand tighten. Notice where the hole is for the cotterpin and loosen one slot. The hub should spin freely with hardly any noticable "play" in the hub. Definately no "wiggle." This procedure works for me.

Geron

[Arne]

If you have to remove the outer race, use a punch, not a chisel.. it's bad for the race, and bad for the chisel....

if you use a hammer and punch, contantly tap lightly and move the punch around the race to get it out (if the race gets cocked, it will bind)....

but, as mentioned removing the outer race is only necessary if it is scored. Otherwise, just clean and inspect...

I usually check the hubs when stopping every couple hundred miles or so. If hot (warm is okay), that is a sign of trouble.

I bought a brand new boat trailer, pulled it home, checked the hubs and one was quite hot.... pulled the cap and found the factory had overtightened the nut.....

I tighten the nut tight, back it off, then tighten only to the point where it is not loose..... On the h/f, this meant I had to back off the nut 1/8th turn to get the cotter pin hole to line up.... but it doesn't seem to be a problem......

[bdosborn]

From a saved post by arnereil:

"The timkem bearing number is 30205 M 90K M1 (the 30205 is the important part).

and the seal is (milimeter measurment) 30x52x7... the 7 is the seal width. You need to know the '7' part.

The bearings are marked 'Russia'. Luckily, spark plugs and bearings are mostly standard in the international venue. "

Bruce

[Arne]

I still carry a set of bearings and seals with me... they cost about $30.00, and fit into a small box.....

If I ever have need of them, they will be one of the best investments I have ever made........

[Geron]

I still carry a set of bearings and seals with me... they cost about $30.00, and fit into a small box.....

If I ever have need of them, they will be one of the best investments I have ever made........

I think I have 2 sets - I'm really cautious . Guess I better run out and check. Hate to be caught w/o them

Geron

[JunkMan]

I still carry a set of bearings and seals with me... they cost about $30.00, and fit into a small box.....

I bought a used boat, and lost a bearing on the way home. Was out in the middle of Iowa on a Sunday afternoon. Figured I would have to spend the night, and find the parts in the morning when the auto parts store opened up.

Luckily a State Trooper pulled up as I was inspecting the trailer on the side of the road. He was just getting off work, and on his way home. Told me to follow him home, he had a large shop we could change the bearing in. When he got there, he called to owner of the local auto parts store and talked him into opening up for me, so I could get a set of bearings. Then he drove me to the auto parts store, and helped me change the bearings. A couple of hours later, and I was on my way home.

I was very grateful for him helping me out, and I offered to buy him dinner or something to show my gratitude. He refused any form of payment, so I made sure I wrote a letter to his boss explaning what a great Trooper he had on the force.

I alos went out and bought a spare set of bearings and a seal to carry with me. A couple of years later, I was cleaning out the boat, and tucked into a corner of a cubby hole that I never used was a set of bearings in a plastic bag! The original owner must have also believed in carring a spare. So now I also have 2 sets!

[Geron]

I still carry a set of bearings and seals with me... they cost about $30.00, and fit into a small box.....

I alos went out and bought a spare set of bearings and a seal to carry with me. A couple of years later, I was cleaning out the boat, and tucked into a corner of a cubby hole that I never used was a set of bearings in a plastic bag! The original owner must have also believed in carring a spare. So now I also have 2 sets!

Just checked my toolbox - only one set. Have to get another tomorrow Must have used one set and failed to replace it.

Geron

[Joseph]

I've been in the Pacific Northwest for the week and am just now catching up...

"The timkem bearing number is 30205 M 90K M1 (the 30205 is the important part).
and the seal is (milimeter measurment) 30x52x7... the 7 is the seal width. You need to know the '7' part.

Thanks Bruce - now THAT helps! Mine are Chinese so the Russian numbers don't help any. Howver, since mine are marked 31 52 7 I'm sure those are the measurements in millimeters which should help me track them down.

Thanks again!

Joseph

[Joseph]

Any auto parts store. Just take what's left of the old one in for a match.

I wish, Geron. Nobody handles metric and there's nothing close enough in English that'll work. Found an on-line mfr (AnySeals.com) but they're wholesale and have none in stock anyway. One of their retailers, (Maryland Metric) is close enough but they don't have any on the shelves either. Supposed to be a 2-3 week delivery time - yeah, right. Hope I can get 'em before I'm supposed to be on "teardrop time" in July!

Joseph