Few questions on installing the aluminum

[ioan]

This weekend I'm hoping to start installing the aluminum siding and I have few questions:
1. What kind of glue should I use to glue the aluminum to the plywood walls?
2. When installing the molding, what kind of caulk should I put under it?
3. Any other tips or tricks should I know before I start?

Here is what I'm planing to do. I'm going to glue a 4'x8' of aluminum on one side, then cut out the door and the shape of the teardrop (after the side is installed). Repeat for the other side... and then install glue the aluminum on top. Is this a good idea or should I cut the aluminum to shape before installing it?

[halfdome, Danny]

This weekend I'm hoping to start installing the aluminum siding and I have few questions:
1. What kind of glue should I use to glue the aluminum to the plywood walls?
2. When installing the molding, what kind of caulk should I put under it?
3. Any other tips or tricks should I know before I start?

Here is what I'm planing to do. I'm going to glue a 4'x8' of aluminum on one side, then cut out the door and the shape of the teardrop (after the side is installed). Repeat for the other side... and then install glue the aluminum on top. Is this a good idea or should I cut the aluminum to shape before installing it?

#1. If you choose to glue your aluminum to the walls (I do) use something like Wilsonart or Formica contact cement available where they sell plam in big box stores.
Put it on with a low nap roller.
If you can get it at a wholesale house then Wilsonart 951 (clear) in a cheap conventional cup spray gun.
Make sure you have adequate ventilation and no spark generation in the area your applying it.
It's available in water based but I have no experience to advise you with.
It goes on just like spray painting, thinning not recommended.
Always follow the spread rate on the back of the can, don't get stingy with it.
I always do 2 or 3 light coats on both the wall and the aluminum to give a 100% - 110% coverage.

You'll need some same size clean sticks/dowels at least 36" long to keep the glued aluminum away from the plywood before "Contact".
I place 2 particle board boxes on the floor at level with the level teardrop to hold the aluminum so I can easily place it correctly.
The boxes will need to be 1/4" - 1/2" shorter than the bottom of your wall.
Remove the center stick first and smooth down with your hand as you remove succeeding sticks.
Finish up by rolling it out with a "J" roller.

#2. Use either butyl tape or something like clear OSI sealant (what I use) from Home Depot.
Don't be stingy with the stuff but don't get messy either.

#3. If you don't have a router now is the time to get one. A 1 1/2 HP would work just fine and get a 3/4" straight flush trim bottom bearing bit to trim the 1/4" - 1/2" excess you'll leave to trim off your profile.
Make sure you have adequate stainless screws to do the job.
I always cut out the door first then apply the aluminum to the wall.
I drill a series of 1/4" holes along the inside edge of the door then masking tape the outside and route from the outside with a 1/4" knob bit.
It's best if you have a helper hold the aluminum from the inside since you'll have to catch the cut out before it falls out of the opening.
The last inch is kinda hairy at times.
Use a pair of shears to cut 1/2" over your profile shape before attaching to the walls.
The roof always goes on last.
Don't know how big of a sheet you'll be installing on the roof.
Outdoor carpet glue will give you plenty of wiggle time on the roof but you'll need to weigh it down and suggest straping it down from forward to aft with tow straps over sticks on the area of your spars.
Danny

[ioan]

Thank you Danny, I really appreciate the advice. I have a router, a Craftsman 2HP, got it as a gift from my father in law, but I never used it yet. This would be a good job to test it on.

The piece for the roof is 4x12 and is going to go from front all the way to the hinge for the hatch. I have over the roof 1/8" birch plywood (the spars are not visible), do I still need to have sticks when I tie it down over the spars? Or just at equal distances would do it?

[halfdome, Danny]

Thank you Danny, I really appreciate the advice. I have a router, a Craftsman 2HP, got it as a gift from my father in law, but I never used it yet. This would be a good job to test it on.

The piece for the roof is 4x12 and is going to go from front all the way to the hinge for the hatch. I have over the roof 1/8" birch plywood (the spars are not visible), do I still need to have sticks when I tie it down over the spars? Or just at equal distances would do it?

Ioan, your best pressure points for clamping will be where you concealed spars are.
Measure out their locations and note them on a sketch of your profile for future use.
Cut some 3/4" scraps of plywood/lumber 4' long for the task.
Danny

[mrslamb]

I know that this is an old thread, but I am planning to install my aluminum in about a week. Have either of you had any issues with the aluminum coming off or delaminating using the contact cement? Did you glue the roof also?

I am just trying to weigh the pros and cons of floating the aluminum vs using glue to secure it. Any opinions/thoughts would be very helpful!


David and Brianna

[halfdome, Danny]

I know that this is an old thread, but I am planning to install my aluminum in about a week. Have either of you had any issues with the aluminum coming off or delaminating using the contact cement? Did you glue the roof also?

I am just trying to weigh the pros and cons of floating the aluminum vs using glue to secure it. Any opinions/thoughts would be very helpful!


David and Brianna

David and Brianna,
The aluminum can't fall off due to the glue and the surrounding aluminum trim.
I poured some left over contact cement in a small plastic tub and let it cure so I could toss it.
It peeled out of the plastic tub with some persuasion and it's as flexible as rubber.
I use to use Henry's Outdoor carpet adhesive on the roof when I skinned it in one complete sheet.
I wouldn't advise gluing a full sheet on the roof using contact cement.

I'm using 4' x 10' aluminum now and have to do lap joints with VHB tape to cover the roof with 4' x 5' pieces.
In this situation I use contact cement on the roof.
You must follow the spread rate on the can or contact won't stick well.
Danny

[mrslamb]

Thanks! Is there any special brand of contact cement or carpet glue that you like to use? I know that Henry 663 is popular... Also, would there be a reason to not use the carpet glue on the sides (instead of contact cement)?

Thanks,
David

[halfdome, Danny]

Thanks! Is there any special brand of contact cement or carpet glue that you like to use? I know that Henry 663 is popular... Also, would there be a reason to not use the carpet glue on the sides (instead of contact cement)?

Thanks,
David

David,
I use Wilsonart brand contact.
I've never had a problem with other brands.
Home Depot carries Wilsonart solvent & water based contact in my area.
Carpet glue is messy & lumpy, you trowel it on, it needs to be clamped down.
Your sides won't lay as flat as if you had used contact cement.
Use a roller not a brush to spread contact cement.
Danny