Northern Lite Traveler

[alaska teardrop]

Hi Dan,

Glad to meet you.

Looks like you're doing a mighty fine job of building a trailer yourself!

More beer

Fred

[AlgoDan]

Hi Fred, Thanks for the compliment. Without this forum and great builds people have done here, I don't think I would have done a build....
Cheers
Dan

Hi Dan,

Glad to meet you.

Looks like you're doing a mighty fine job of building a trailer yourself!

More beer

Fred

[Prem]

[amblt]

This is amazing. Do you expect any trouble with galvanic action between the aluminum structure and the steel frame? I only browsed through quickly- I may have missed something.

Thanks

[alaska teardrop]

This is amazing. Do you expect any trouble with galvanic action between the aluminum structure and the steel frame? I only browsed through quickly- I may have missed something.

Thanks

Thanks. Good question. No, I don't expect galvanic corrosion in this trailer to be an issue at all. Strength & durability are two of the reasons to build this way.

Here is a Anodic index: http://www.engineersedge.com/galvanic_capatability.htm

Steel has a value of .85v. The aluminum used in this trailer has a value of either .90v or .95v for a total difference of .10v. That's below the acceptable difference of .15v for outdoor use.

To prevent moisture intrusion the steel tubes for the cabin floor are welded closed. The entire steel chassis is sand blasted, acid dipped & powder coated. The VHB tape not only acts as an adhesive & seal but separates the aluminum from the powder coated steel. The only direct contact between the metals are the rivets.

The rivets are 3/16" closed end aluminum structural rivets. Closed end rivets won't leak through the center. They make an exceptionally strong seal to close off the rivet hole. 840# tensile strength. About the same as a #10 plated machine screw & more than a stainless steel screw.

In addition, the interior cabin has a complete vapor barrier to prevent interior moisture from entering the wall, ceiling & floor.

Hope that answers your question.

So, my turn. Who, what & where are you? Are you building or looking to buy? The Northern Lite Traveler is for sale BTW. viewtopic.php?f=18&t=52370

Fred

[aggie79]

Fred,
Every time I look at this build, I'm amazed. I've tried to soak in the details of your design, and have an okay grasp of what material or technique you used. The one thing that I haven't figured out is the "trim" where the roof and sidewall meet. From your description of the interior ceiling, I'm thinking the exterior "trim" may be a "U" shaped trim applied over the sidewall aluminum before riveting with the aluminum roof skin overlapping this. Could you tell please if I'm anywhere near correct?
Thank you,
Tom

[alaska teardrop]

Thanks Tom,

The trim is an automotive type lip guard made by TrimLok. It self adheres over the top of the roof rivets.
Edit to add link: http://www.trimlok.com/prod/Lip-Guard/P ... rd_82.aspx
Fred

[aggie79]

Thank you Fred!

That trim looks like it will solve a lot of issues. I need to visit the TrimLok site.

Take care,
Tom

[The Longs]

Hey Fred,

I apologize if this has already been covered but what type of rivets are you using to fasten the sheet to the frame? Im in the process of building an all steel tear and love the way the rivets look.

Thanks!

[alaska teardrop]

Hi The Longs,
I use 3/16" Aluminum Dome Head Closed End Structural rivets with Steel Mandrel. The length depends on the material thickness. I use them because they don't leak through the center, high tensile strength and the mandrel nail always breaks off out of sight, leaving the bulb in place to help maintain the tensile strength. Recommend using a pneumatic riveter.
A source would be your local industrial supplier such as Fastenal.
Example link to rivets: http://www.hansonrivet.com/closed-end-blind-rivets.htm
Fred

[dogscats]

Do you add anything to the side rivets very nice trailers

[alaska teardrop]

Do you add anything to the side rivets very nice trailers

Thank you, Dogscats.
Not sure that I understand your question. The rivets for the side, top, floor, cleats, galley & shelf mounting, fender attachment and tailgate structural angles are all Closed End Structural rivets of the appropriate length. No washers. No surfacing of the dome head like on the Airstream replacement rivets.
The interior ceiling & side panels are riveted with Large Dome Head aluminum rivets with aluminum mandrel.
Fred

[dogscats]

Do you put any thing on top of the rivets that you on the sides any goop to help seal ? Like your frame . Did i miss what ga steel you use? Some time seam like I read to much and forget

[alaska teardrop]

Do you put any thing on top of the rivets that you on the sides any goop to help seal ? Like your frame . Did i miss what ga steel you use? Some time seam like I read to much and forget

No goop necessary. The high tinsel strength of the rivet makes for a tight seal & closed end rivets don't leak through the center like a standard rivet.
This thread gives an explanation of steel sizes for the chassis: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=12220

[AZ_Desert_Rat]

Holy smoke Fred,
A great build and some new innovative, trailer building ideas and techniques!