The Ladybug-Out

[nhstt]

Ok,
Here goes. I've started my build but as a rank amateur have hundreds of questions. I've all ready gotten some help from Roly and hope he'll follow this thread as soon as he's back from The Dam Gathering I've been on the site reading for a while, now it's time to build.
The name of the trailer is what I hope to accomplish! A place that's prepacked, watertight and ready to go!
I'll be having a little fun with this also and painting her as a giant lady bug. my inspiration is Roly's stacker. My 23 year old say's Dad would be in trouble if Roly was 25 years younger and living on the east coast. His tears are definitely chick magnets.
I'm building on a harbor freight 40x48 with a partial over the wheel build. About 1/2" my fender will be visible, giving me a floor of 46 1/2" by 84".
The design is a combination of a Kamp Master and a traditional tear. I will have one door and a large hatch that provides entrance from the rear. My galley will be removable or 10' wides, attached on both sides with doors that come up to form the counter.It will have a fully attached awning like the Wild goose. providing ventilation and more important head room for my claustrophobic mate. Three under floor cubes. One for a spare and two for storage. Windows will be the CRL round tinted windows( SPOTS )or I'll make my own.
For money's sake I need to this tear off the shelf! so If you've got any ideas please let me know.
My boys will be helping with the build.Suki want's to see whats going on!
Karen

[George Taylor]

For good cabinet latches/pulls you can use window sash locks that ate used on double hung windows.

[George Taylor]

Just make sure you you will have enough clearance for turning.

[nhstt]

Just make sure you you will have enough clearance for turning.

Thanks George I'll be using a tongue extension. I got the idea from Roly.
Karen

[nhstt]

Some more pictures, Gordon and the boys build boxes while I'm at work!




will paint with spar varnish then spray undercoating on the outside.
QUESTION-Do I sand the spar before applying the undercoating?
and how many coats of the spar first?



Danny helps Dad finish up the frame extention.

[harleykamper]

looks great Karen. I posted a response to your comments on my build. It just sorta grew from there while I was looking at your build and typing at the same time... have a look. Thanks for the comments.
Paul.....HarleyKamper

[Fishingtomatoseed]

Karen looks good. Like the design and graphics. I responded to your message and the only other thing I would like to say is Mike's quite on his signature. "The quality is remembered long after the price is forgotten, so build your teardrop with the best materials...." That is something I wish I had done on the outside if the trailer waterproofing it. Because after you put months too years into build only to have the paint come off or damage to the wood.

Have fun.

[nhstt]

Thanks guy's for the comments,
getting cold feet here on the undercoat prep for my boxes and the bottom of the trailer .
I know a lot of people use spar varnish under and I'm just learning about cpes. Which do people use most and
how many coats drying time, sanding etc.? hoping to get done this weekend.
Karen at the Ladybug-out build journal viewtopic.php?f=50&t=55602

[Yankeeka]

This what I have done in the past and it seems to hold up well IMO;

1.) sand the wood with 220 grit to get a nice clean surface
2.) wipe with acetone to remove any oils or grease on the wood (allow this to dry)
3.) apply CPES until the wood will not take anymore (even strokes allowing the wood to soak up whatever it can). This will vary on the wood species and weather)....it should look glossy when your done
4.) allow it to cure 24hrs then rough the surface again (220 or scoth brite pad) and apply an even final coat.

I've top coated my undersides CPES with an additional epoxy coat using west system for even further water protection but some conside that overkill. If you decide to do that make sure you scuff the last coat before applying to promote adhesion.

I've used spar urethane as well and while its initial resistance to moisture is good, the CPES and epoxy systems are much better in terms of durability and longevity. Hope that helps.

**edit: if you are for sure going to use spar varnish / urethane I usually do three coats (again until wood will not take any more) sanding with a 400 grit paper between coats. Polyurethane takes a while to cure so do not rush the dry times....if you need to accelerate the process you can thin the poly with mineral spirits but you would have to build up more coats conversely.

IMHO I would never use that underbody automotive coating if that is what you are referring to....it is messy and has not held up well in my experience with it. You could use a spray bedliner for a more durable finish just be sure to scuff up any glossy surfaces before applying....just my opinion.

[nhstt]

Thanks Yankeeka,
That's a lot of good advise! I went to the web site for Rot Doctor, looks like a great product. Not sure where do get it around here. I live in the sticks, no big cities around and Lowe's doesn't carry it I picked up 4 cans of Rust-oleum undercoating. I plan on using this after several coats of spar or the cpes(If I can find it!) with my storage boxes I think the spray will work best.
Gordon and William finished the box for the spare tonight while I was at work. I picked up some 2x2's to attach the boxes to the underside of the floor. Hope to get the 3 holes in the floor cut out, boxes -glued and screwed to the floor and several coats of spar or cpes. Followed by the undercoating all done over the weekend around my job

Then we will tweak the cardboard template for the side before getting our 1/2" birch ply for the sides.

Also will need to figure out how to open and remove bad grease from the H.F. tires and replace with good grease?
Stop at VIPS and they had a bunch, not sure which to get That looks like a fun job, I bet I won't get any offers of help on that one
Karen

[nhstt]

Working on the boxes before running off to work!


Two down one to go!


Test fitting the first two boxes.


The boxes are made from 1/2" birch ply 15x15x9, glued and screwed overlapping edges so the bottom of the box is cut 1/2" larger on both sides. This worked out great!
Karen

[nhstt]

Gordon traces the box on the floor before cutting it out


First cut Nerve wracking


The floor moves outside Boxes in place!




starting to varnish the bottom!



Three coats Danny


My 13 year old took this I love it!



Will puts down the camera and grabs a brush. I want the boys to be able to say I built this when it's all done.






After 3 coats of varnish and sanding, sprayed the bottom with 4 cans of rustoleum undercoat.



Yes it smelled! but not as bad as the brush on roof tar. Ruined on of my favor polar fleece jackets Got black all over it when I accidentally leaned on the side.



Danny's turn Only one kid with a spray can at a time



Karen

[celticquetzel]

Part of the appeal of TDs is the cuteness factor... and yours fits the bill. And I love that it's a family affair. Great job!

[gregp136]

Looking Great!!!!!

Greg and Laurie

[bc toys]

you are doing a great job and those boys will remember this forever so share it with them all the way to the end.