Is there a more "gentle" way to setup electric brakes ctrlr?

[hwitten]

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6. Drive tow vehicle and trailer on a dry level paved surface at 25 mph and fully apply Manual Override.
- If trailer brakes lock up:
 Turn power down using power knob.
- If braking was not sufficient:
 Turn power up using power knob.

Above is a piece of the directions to set the controller.
I'm new to trailering and electric brakes so the term If trailer brakes lock up is a bit disheartening. Is there not a more gentle way to set the correct power needed?
In my case I'm only dealing with 600 pounds plus personal effects. I'm using the Prodigy RF controller.

I was thinking of setting power so that there is no creeping when putting tow vehicle in drive and then checking it with some real braking. Bad idea?

Heinz

[48Rob]

Heinz,

Yes.

Read the manual and set the controller to the minimum power setting, then follow the directions you posted.

Locking up the brakes may bring visions of an action movie stunt where tires squeal, and cars spin in circles, but it isn't like that.
Locking the trailer tires at 25 mph will simply stop you with a slight amount of noise. It is good to know how much is too much, because if you don't, you will never know how much is just enough, and thus you may never have the trailer brakes set to the level needed to bring you to a safe stop in an emergency.

You should be aware; each time you tow a different trailer, or change the load (weight) the directions you posted should be followed again, as the brakes must be adjusted for the load.
It may sound scary, but it is simply fine tuning, no more, no less.

Rob

[bc toys]

start out at about 20 mph and get them set I started in mid range and went from there

[Dale M.]

600 pounds and personal effect is not much weight unless you are towing by a bicycle... Use minimal setting and manually apply trailer brakes with controller while car is "coasting" if you feel the brakes engage and slightly drag tow vehicle and trailer down in speed it will probable be sufficient.... IF you do not feel any "drag" increase settings till you find correct setting.... If brake controller is set correctly, you can actually stop tow vehicle and trailer faster with out any "lockups" or tire scrubbing or squealing then with out trailer brakes... IT may only take 3-4 tries to find correct setting on controller...

Dale

[working on it]

+ 1 on what Dale M. said. I don't have brakes on my TTT, nor plan to, but having towed a larger, heavier trailer (with 2 brakes), and my much heavier car hauler/utility trailer (first with 2, now with 4 brakes) I would also make running adjustments to fit various loads and/or speeds and traffic conditions. I use a digital controller in both my trucks, and find the best digital setting (as displayed by LED's as a % of braking power), and either memorize the best-for-what situation settings, or write them on a post-it note on the dashboard. If I'm transitioning from hi-speed to stop and go traffic, then I just dial it in and I'm ready (but not too early...I went from 65% to 15% at 70 mph, and had an idiot slam on his brakes 1000 feet before he needed to!...I'm glad I had a shoulder to pass him on).

[Dale M.]

I had one of those AW S*** moments.... Was approaching side road, and some dummy pulls up to STOP, and then pulls right out in front of me... Scenario is BIG CHEVY pickup with 1480 pounds of tandem axle car carrier and 1260 pounds of race car on trailer (probably around 2800 lbs total) .... The big Chevy emblem on my grill must have taken up the complete rear view mirror in his itty bitty putt-putt car.... Bet there was not an inch between us at some give point, but we did not touch.... Yes you can lock up Anti-lock brakes and you can squall the tires on the trailer..... Bet If I did not have brakes on trailer and not set properly, I would have taken him out.... Actually drove another 15 miles to a rest stop before I started to breath again....

Dale

[hwitten]

Thanks for all the help folks.

It took top of the power setting to feel some drag in manual.
I guess checking brake adjustment is next on the todo list just to make sure the installer actually set it up.

In actual usage, power went in proportion to pressure on brake pedal and short of doing an actual emergency stop the power scale went to about 6 on the scale of 0-13.

It felt like it helped so I guess I'll start with this setting.
When I get more comfortable I'll experiment some

Now all I have to do is shorten some wiring to length and make some shims for the receiver to quieten it down some. Changed to 1/2in rise and we're now level.

Wiring cleanup time, finally.

IMG_0404.jpg (170.08 KiB) Viewed 680 times

Then it's time to find an excuse for a test outing

[Corwin C]

I don't do it at 25mph ... more like a fast walk. You do have to be in motion for it to work. Adjust so the setting is as high as possible without causing any skidding. You should feel a definite tug from the trailer. I perform this adjustment every time I hook up and/or whenever the load on the trailer changes. It is also important to perform this test on a similar road surface to what you will be driving on. If I transition to another road surface (i.e. pavement to gravel) I repeat the adjustment.

It is not uncommon for me to do this right in a parking lot. If I've ever turned any heads, I haven't noticed them. Please be safe, these adjustments can be a distraction while you are performing them. We don't want anyone to be in any accidents.

[alaska teardrop]

Because I'm seeing something new to me, I must ask. Is the box with cable the brake controller or some other devise? Are steel cables, instead of chains, acceptable in Canada? The cables seem excessively long & they don't cross under the hitch. Is that kosher in Canada?

Fred

[hwitten]

My oops re the cross-over, or rather lack thereof. They normally live crossed. Cables are ok as long as they can carry the weight, etc. and since the trailer is certified I assume the cables are of adequate capacity for my little toy, as my wife calls it

The box is the brake controller. The in-cabin handheld piece plugs into cigar lighter for power. It's about the size of a CB mike.
http://www.etrailer.com/Brake-Controlle ... 90250.html

Have shortened up the cable that sits on top of the box in the picture. Was able to just pull it up into the storage area. Looks much better now.

[Dale M.]

Blue tooth controller!... Not sure I'm ready for that.... Its anything like Detroits drive by wire, I'm skeptical...

Calif law specifically mentions chains...

FY!....

Dale

[Shadow Catcher]

I have not been able to get my brakes on the trailer to skid. I know they are there but the 7" brakes do not do a great deal.

[hwitten]

Blue tooth controller!... Not sure I'm ready for that.... Its anything like Detroits drive by wire, I'm skeptical...

Not Bluetooth. Some proprietary scheme that protects against having 2 trailers side-by-side activating each other's brakes.

Calif law specifically mentions chains...

The term chains seems to be a generic term used to mean safety device which could be chain or cable, even in California I believe.

Thanks for forcing me to research as I'm pretty new to all this
I do recall though that when I towed a toad wheels down with RV, I was also using cables that came with a California sourced hitch setup.

[hwitten]

I have not been able to get my brakes on the trailer to skid. I know they are there but the 7" brakes do not do a great deal.

Thanks for confirming what I was thinking re 7" size being not that potent re stopping tow vehicle.
I can definitely feel brakes going on when using manual and I do believe I'm getting braking when I'm doing 30+ mph.
As long as it stops its own weight plus the break-away is sufficient to make brakes worthwhile for me.

I am going to double-check that brake-shoes are set up correctly, just to be sure

[Shadow Catcher]

I have yet to adjust the brakes and I would hazard a guess that most people have forgotten that this needs to be done or know how to do it. Drum brakes on cars became self adjusting at some point and this would happen when you backed up and applied the brakes.Not there on trailer brakes!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9Tf1Bc526zE

This MIGHT be the reason I can not lock the brakes