Rockhopper - Solutions!

[S. Heisley]

I use the Pre-Kote primer that is recommended for use with the Interlux Brightsides paint. However, I just read a post by Doug Hodder (I think) that said it is not necessary. I trust his knowledge. I'm almost anal about following directions though, so if the paint can says I need to prime, I prime.

+1

Glad to see you back at it. Hope the weather continues to cooperate!

[mikeschn]

Interesting stuff, this fiberglass!!!



Mike...

[KCStudly]

Looking good, Mike.

I take it this is your first time using FG. Any additional comments that you can share with those of us who have little experience with the stuff?

[mikeschn]

Yea,

Bubbles... I hate them.

Where the fiberglass doesn't lay down flat on the plywood!!!

But the good news is I tried sanding down a bubble today that we made yesterday, and it sands down well.

I have a lot of sanding to do.

Mike...

[danlott]

This guys really makes wetting out fiberglass look easy.



I watched several of his videos before I tried fiberglassing. I did fairly good the first time I tried it after watching this guy do it. I also had no bubbles and no real sanding. You can also roll on a coat of epoxy before you lay the cloth on it, this will help hold the cloth to the surface while your wet it out. Make sure to apply the cloth as the first epoxy coat is still really tacky. This would be good on vertical surfaces such as your sides.





Dan

[mikeschn]

Hey Dan, and all...

I'm sure I made every mistake in the book with this fiberglass, but then, isn't that what a sander is for?

I finished this on Monday, and it's in the garage curing so that I can try to sand it smooth this weekend.



Mike...

[Oldragbaggers]

Beautiful MIke. I love the way the resin makes the woodgrain POP. Even plywood can look beautiful.

I do love working with fiberglass. I actually even love the way it smells. I'm sure that makes me some kind of a weirdo or something.

That is some trailer you are building. I too am glad to see you are back at it.

[mikeschn]

This guys really makes wetting out fiberglass look easy.



Dan

I like the fiberglass this guy is using. Nice and thin and stretches out to whatever you want. I used 3 oz fiberglass and it was too heavy... Any idea what this guy is using?

Mike...

[mikeschn]

I actually even love the way it smells.

Thanks Becky,

I've been going out into the garage every day to smell the fiberglass!!!

Mike...

[KCStudly]

Any idea what this guy is using?

I watched that the other day and I'm fairly certain that it said it was 6 oz. (Can I get a second?)

(edit - deleted.)

As a kid I always wanted to be a long haul trucker, and to this day I love the smell of diesel exhaust fumes! Go figure.

[Oldragbaggers]

Mike, I've been reading a lot lately about strip plank building (preparing for my next project) and the standard weight of cloth for covering those boats is 6 oz. so I am going to second that one.

[danlott]

I like the fiberglass this guy is using. Nice and thin and stretches out to whatever you want. I used 3 oz fiberglass and it was too heavy... Any idea what this guy is using?

Mike...

There are several videos before this video on how to layout and prep the fiberglass cloth. The guy takes a long time to get the fiberglass cloth just right before he starts wetting it out.

As with anything. You get out of it what you put into it. This guys takes time to do a high quality professional job and that is exactly what he gets out of it.



Dan

[KCStudly]

Very insightful vid on laying out cloth! Thanks for that.

Mike, I saw your comment about door latch fitment over on the Ethel build thread and thought I might be able to help, especially if they are TriMark brand.

Mine are the TriMark 060-0251 latch with dead bolt. I needed the optional Item #20907-01-K, Kit (29792-01) for doors 1-3/4 thick plus, but the cut dimensions are the same.

I was able to find the “Technical Publication” by digging down thru the “Specification” tab on their website.

From these drawings I was able to make two router jigs (one for the latch body on thru the face of the door, and the other for the latch pin and bolt thru the jamb edge), which I tested on a mock-up test piece. With a little hand work with a rasp and rat tail file, I was able to get the latch to slide into place. The trim plates covered the openings fine and I didn't have to disassemble the latch at all.

Check my TPCE post here (scroll down past the boat stuff… sorry for the OT stuff ), and here (scroll down past the first set of cat pics… and after the second set of cat pics… oh no, OT again! ).

If you are using a different brand, I am sure that they will have the cut out specs available, either online or by contacting the mfg.

Hope this helps and is not too redundant... (I made a similar post just recently in another thread).

[Ben]

The silver beetle had a good write up on the same door handle as mine he cheated a bit thought, lol might want to check it out I found it after I already had mine done.

[doug hodder]

I use the Pre-Kote primer that is recommended for use with the Interlux Brightsides paint. However, I just read a post by Doug Hodder (I think) that said it is not necessary. I trust his knowledge. I'm almost anal about following directions though, so if the paint can says I need to prime, I prime.

The only way you can do an auto clear over epoxy for a woody is to shoot directly over the epoxy. No primer, it relies on the tooth of the sanded epoxy for it's bonding. I've shot color over straight epoxy as well, with no primer. You have to prime over aluminum or steel. I spoke with the guys at PPG about it when I did it. If in doubt, always check with the tech guys at the paint manufacturer before you begin. Doug